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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-20-2014, 07:15 AM
  #17071  
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Originally Posted by evostyle
When using the Schumacher K1 12mm front hex set with proper axle spacing. Which EVO front 4wd wheel is closest to the stock front track width. The EVO 4wd front Losi or the Evo 4wd front Kyosho?

Also out of all the rear 12mm axle hexes.
http://www.amain.com/Search?cID=5321&s=12mm+hex

Which would be the best to use to maintain the stock track width when using the AKA rear EVO wheels?
Anyone????
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:18 AM
  #17072  
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One thing I forgot to mention…

I had the oddest of odd failures yesterday, The cross pin from my right rear doggone flew out of the car. Was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone because it has NEVER happened on any car that I know of. I was able to repair it by cutting an old bent outer hinge pin and cutting it to length and wedged it in place using a sliver of a JConcepts tire bag because it was JUST a tiny bit loose. It held the rest of the day but the pin did slide over to one side a bit. I will be replacing with universals all around now that this happened but it's cash I did not want to spend.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:14 PM
  #17073  
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Just quick shout out: this car is great. Got a used v4 for a great deal and man, the thing is built like a tank. plastics feels amazing. parts fit so perfectly. handles high speeds so well. still working out how I want it to corner.

Last edited by SamuraiJack; 10-20-2014 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:42 PM
  #17074  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
One thing I forgot to mention…

I had the oddest of odd failures yesterday, The cross pin from my right rear doggone flew out of the car. Was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone because it has NEVER happened on any car that I know of. I was able to repair it by cutting an old bent outer hinge pin and cutting it to length and wedged it in place using a sliver of a JConcepts tire bag because it was JUST a tiny bit loose. It held the rest of the day but the pin did slide over to one side a bit. I will be replacing with universals all around now that this happened but it's cash I did not want to spend.
That's seems extremely odd. Why not JB Weld the new pin in and call it done?
(I'm cheap!)
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:29 PM
  #17075  
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Originally Posted by thefan
This question is mainly aimed at Dino D but i welcome everyones comments, im putting the v4 together and it was suggested to follow Dino's setup, i have noticed he has the rear arms all the way back with the hubs forward whereas the instruction manual has the arms almost all the way forward with the hubs to the rear, so i'm wondering what are the benefits of either setup considering the wheelbase is nearly identical in both setups but with different ways of achieving it? Also the kit piston setup is 2x1.7 front and 3x1.7 but Dino setup suggests 2x1.6 front 2x1.7 rear any thoughts on that setup?
I don't know, but I have learned don't doubt Dinos 410 or desc210 set ups, just don't. Copy it to the T, then minor changes if needed from there (shock angle or hub position) The kit set ups aren't bad, but not nearly as good
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:32 AM
  #17076  
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Are you guys drilling your own pistons coz my v4 kit came with the 6 hole pistons
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:27 AM
  #17077  
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Originally Posted by thefan
Are you guys drilling your own pistons coz my v4 kit came with the 6 hole pistons
It should come with 2 and 3 hole pistons and blanks as well...they probably packed it wring...mine came with V3 diff cases not V4... they probably ran out of parts????
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:49 AM
  #17078  
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Originally Posted by thefan
Are you guys drilling your own pistons coz my v4 kit came with the 6 hole pistons
My kit came with blanks so i could drill out my own configuration. Use Gary's Hole Thing to drill them how you like em.

If your kit came with pre-drilled 6 hole pistons. Another option is to use a soldering iron and melt/close the # of holes you desire.
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Old 10-21-2014, 09:34 AM
  #17079  
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Originally Posted by thefan
This question is mainly aimed at Dino D but i welcome everyones comments, im putting the v4 together and it was suggested to follow Dino's setup, i have noticed he has the rear arms all the way back with the hubs forward whereas the instruction manual has the arms almost all the way forward with the hubs to the rear, so i'm wondering what are the benefits of either setup considering the wheelbase is nearly identical in both setups but with different ways of achieving it? Also the kit piston setup is 2x1.7 front and 3x1.7 but Dino setup suggests 2x1.6 front 2x1.7 rear any thoughts on that setup?
Yes the wheelbase is almost identical in both, but its the leverage points, weight distribution, where the arm is supported on the chassis and hub position in relation to the arm that matters more.

By moving the arms to the front, the balance and weight of the car are shifted more to the rear - which is recommended for high-traction conditions. By moving the arms to the rear, the balance and weight of the car shifted more to the front; this is recommended for medium- and low-traction conditions.

Let's say you follow kit setup. Arms forward and hubs rear. If you move the hub to the rear you gain stability but less grip. If you more the hub towards the front you gain more grip but less stability since your wheelbase is much shorter.

By moving the arms to the rear, you already length the wheelbase and you move the hubs forward to gain the grip, and you kinda get the best of both worlds. You can experiment and try for yourself. Remember the further back the arm is, the more it supports the chassis towards the rear of the car rather than slightly more forward, regardless where the hub position is.

Another example of this is front of the 2WD car. Inline vs trailing. Inline you move the caster block back. Trailing you move the castor block forward and its offset on the steering block back. The wheelbase is the same but the effects are different.

Have you tried the kit recommended setup for oils and pistons? The chassis will bottom out pretty easily using the 1.7s as recommended, and anytime the chassis bottoms it upsets the handling. Its great for a bumpy tracks with low to med sized jumps, not so much for US style tracks. I spent a lot of time testing with other drivers to get a really good base setting that works on most tracks from low to high bite with minimal changes required. Maybe a softer front sway bar on indoor tracks, and slightly heavier front oil on large outdoor tracks, but its in the ball park. And don't forget the rear skid plate. It does wonders for handling.

I hope that helps answer your questions.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:05 PM
  #17080  
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Yep thanks Dino
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:49 PM
  #17081  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
I'd get rid of the additional weight. This carsuggested weight firstady heavy and adding more weight will only lead to breakage, possibly leaving you with a sore feeling towards the car. The best way to counter balance is via shock tuning. Add a little more tension on heavier side and the car will jump nicely balanced.

My car was Supah Dialed yesterday and if I were a better driver those two D413's would've eaten my dust. Sadly the track deteriorated like mad and mega ruts formed and as I was shooting out of a turn, my right rear caught a rut at almost full speed and it darted my car into a pipe and I fractured the right front arm where the shock mounts up so I was done. But it was nice to battle in 2nd most of the day, being on the heels of those 413's driven by top level drivers.

LOVE this car.
Hi Incubus
I am not sure if I like the idea shock tuning...Dino D sugested Using weight first.
Wouldn't that raise the chassis / dog bones on one side....wouldn't that cause the car not to drive straight....also why would extra weight cause chassis tweak?...its only 47 grams and thats about 17grams more then what Dino D added to his ride...

Sorry with all the questions....also I am running a short servo which saves some weight as well so really I am only running 30 to 35g more...does it really matter when running a 7.5 turn mod?
I am getting a bit confussed.
cheers
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:56 PM
  #17082  
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I purchased DE Racing wheels for my new dex410v4. The front wheels are the same width as my RB6 2wd buggy. Is this correct? I'm new to 4wd.

Also I bought Revolution Designs Ti shock mounts. They are longer than stock. I assume these are wrong. Are the Lunsford ones the correct size?

Thanks all!
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:06 PM
  #17083  
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Front wheels should be a tad wider than 2WD Fronts.

The shock mounts are different lengths front and rear.
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:25 PM
  #17084  
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If the wheels have a 14mm hex you've got the right ones.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:03 PM
  #17085  
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Thanks. How much wider are front 4wd wheels from front 2wd? The bag says dex410 and X-ray xb4. Must be correct but they look the same as 2wd.
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