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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-17-2014, 11:36 AM
  #17056  
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Where would u start with pinion size with a 87t spur. 8.5 hw v10 motor?
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:38 AM
  #17057  
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probably 21 or 22t for an 8.5T.
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
probably 21 or 22t for an 8.5T.
Thanks
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:16 PM
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Start with a 22, you can probably go up to a 23 or 24 if you run no/little timing
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:33 PM
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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-7.jpg

Here Tony. Not the cleanest install, but here is an R10 and 3520. I know some don't like the wires over the shaft, but it never bothered me any. Actually, I just cut the center part out of my bat strap so I don't need to remove the diff all the time. Not 100% sure that I like that method of removing the battery. It seemed just as easy to remove the diff. Maybe I'll get used to it.

Using the plastic tray as well, but I think next time I remove the electrics, I'm going to ditch the tray.
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:55 PM
  #17061  
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Hi Guys
what do you guys do for left to right balance on the V4... motor weight is about 173 grams compared to speedie, reciever weights which are about 3rd of motor weight...any suggestions...balancing would help in changing direction ..I am thinking of not installing the tray I dont see the point in it.
thank you
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:10 AM
  #17062  
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Originally Posted by Aussie RC
Hi Guys
what do you guys do for left to right balance on the V4... motor weight is about 173 grams compared to speedie, reciever weights which are about 3rd of motor weight...any suggestions...balancing would help in changing direction ..I am thinking of not installing the tray I dont see the point in it.
thank you
Instead of just measuring the components, have you tried to put it on a weight scale? Use the SkyRC digital corner weight scale to check the balance of each corner. And then go from there.

If you preload on the collars are not set right on each corner, or your shock lengths are different, it can severely throw out the balance of the car or give it tweak, especially when jumping.
-Make sure each shock length left and right are identical using a caliper.
-Make sure each shock is freshly bled. You can use the Losi shock matching tool to check. Without the spring on the shock, push the Losi shock matching too to compress the shocks a couple of times. There is a needle to show the balance. If the needle moves, then there is an imbalance in compression, either due to binding in the piston, or maybe from a worn o-ring or air in the shock. If the rebound is different, then one shock has more oil than the other.
-After this is done, make sure each preload collar is identical and put the spring on and do it again to ensure your springs are matched correctly. Most of the time you shouldn't have an issue with the springs and they should be close. If you have a spring measuring tool it would be better, but i don't either so I guess using the Losi tool is the next best thing.
-Put the shocks on the car and check each corner on the scale. If the difference on each side is correct, your left and right should not be to far off. If there is a lot of difference, back off the front upper brace and check again for tweak, or if the tweak is coming from the battery mount on the lipo,
-My 2WD cars had a 20-30g on each side and didn't require much.
-Normally the back difference may be around 20-30g and the front quite a bit more.
-There are 2 ways to adjust tweak. Move the electronics around, or add weight to the corner. Normally the ESC side a bit lighter. So some weight needs to be added there. I know space is tight on the 410. Lead weight or another trick is plumber's putty from Home Depot. Another way is to use the opposite side with preload. Example. If the front left is off, you need to adjust the preload on the rear right to adjust. I try to use weights before touching preload 20g isn't that much different on a buggy. You won't feel the difference like a touring car. But anything near 100g you can feel a slight tweak on a high bite track.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-18-2014, 04:42 PM
  #17063  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Instead of just measuring the components, have you tried to put it on a weight scale? Use the SkyRC digital corner weight scale to check the balance of each corner. And then go from there.

If you preload on the collars are not set right on each corner, or your shock lengths are different, it can severely throw out the balance of the car or give it tweak, especially when jumping.
-Make sure each shock length left and right are identical using a caliper.
-Make sure each shock is freshly bled. You can use the Losi shock matching tool to check. Without the spring on the shock, push the Losi shock matching too to compress the shocks a couple of times. There is a needle to show the balance. If the needle moves, then there is an imbalance in compression, either due to binding in the piston, or maybe from a worn o-ring or air in the shock. If the rebound is different, then one shock has more oil than the other.
-After this is done, make sure each preload collar is identical and put the spring on and do it again to ensure your springs are matched correctly. Most of the time you shouldn't have an issue with the springs and they should be close. If you have a spring measuring tool it would be better, but i don't either so I guess using the Losi tool is the next best thing.
-Put the shocks on the car and check each corner on the scale. If the difference on each side is correct, your left and right should not be to far off. If there is a lot of difference, back off the front upper brace and check again for tweak, or if the tweak is coming from the battery mount on the lipo,
-My 2WD cars had a 20-30g on each side and didn't require much.
-Normally the back difference may be around 20-30g and the front quite a bit more.
-There are 2 ways to adjust tweak. Move the electronics around, or add weight to the corner. Normally the ESC side a bit lighter. So some weight needs to be added there. I know space is tight on the 410. Lead weight or another trick is plumber's putty from Home Depot. Another way is to use the opposite side with preload. Example. If the front left is off, you need to adjust the preload on the rear right to adjust. I try to use weights before touching preload 20g isn't that much different on a buggy. You won't feel the difference like a touring car. But anything near 100g you can feel a slight tweak on a high bite track.

Hope this helps.
Great. Thank you for your reply...I will invest in some scales...I agree just by measuring the weights of your components is just a guide...I have been busy and have added some weight under my reciever and speedie (47grams) it has balanced the chassis from left to right...see photo....once I hav finished wiring up the car I will check again and add or remove weight if required...once it completely assembled I will go to the scale method...hopefully by doing it in stages it wont be to far off. Thanks again
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-20141019_102923.jpg   Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-20141019_102931.jpg  
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:29 AM
  #17064  
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When using the Schumacher K1 12mm front hex set with proper axle spacing. Which EVO front 4wd wheel is closest to the stock front track width. The EVO 4wd front Losi or the Evo 4wd front Kyosho?

Also out of all the rear 12mm axle hexes.
http://www.amain.com/Search?cID=5321&s=12mm+hex

Which would be the best to use to maintain the stock track width when using the AKA rear EVO wheels?
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:54 AM
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Also the last race I broke the front shock MOUNT. Right at the point where the screws go in the side of the upper deck brace. Is this a common problem? I basically flat landed the car from about 4-5 feet. I was surprised that it let go. I've ordered a couple of extra mounts just incase. This part is on back order from Amain.... hhhmmmm.


Last edited by evostyle; 10-20-2014 at 03:04 AM.
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:01 AM
  #17066  
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This question is mainly aimed at Dino D but i welcome everyones comments, im putting the v4 together and it was suggested to follow Dino's setup, i have noticed he has the rear arms all the way back with the hubs forward whereas the instruction manual has the arms almost all the way forward with the hubs to the rear, so i'm wondering what are the benefits of either setup considering the wheelbase is nearly identical in both setups but with different ways of achieving it? Also the kit piston setup is 2x1.7 front and 3x1.7 but Dino setup suggests 2x1.6 front 2x1.7 rear any thoughts on that setup?
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by evostyle
Also the last race I broke the front shock MOUNT. Right at the point where the screws go in the side of the upper deck brace. Is this a common problem? I basically flat landed the car from about 4-5 feet. I was surprised that it let go. I've ordered a couple of extra mounts just incase. This part is on back order from Amain.... hhhmmmm.

That and the plastic servo saver are the only parts I've broken. car has been pretty tough imo. Oh and I did strip the stock servo horn. Kinda funny when I broke my front bulkhead it was also really hard to find a replacement. Ended up finding one online but back ordered the part through my lhs. Got a call from them the other day and they were like we got that part u ordered 3 months ago.
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:18 AM
  #17068  
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Originally Posted by evostyle
Also the last race I broke the front shock MOUNT. Right at the point where the screws go in the side of the upper deck brace. Is this a common problem? I basically flat landed the car from about 4-5 feet. I was surprised that it let go. I've ordered a couple of extra mounts just incase. This part is on back order from Amain.... hhhmmmm.

We had 4 x TD330003 come off backorder if you want one. GP shows back ordered again ...
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Aussie RC
Great. Thank you for your reply...I will invest in some scales...I agree just by measuring the weights of your components is just a guide...I have been busy and have added some weight under my reciever and speedie (47grams) it has balanced the chassis from left to right...see photo....once I hav finished wiring up the car I will check again and add or remove weight if required...once it completely assembled I will go to the scale method...hopefully by doing it in stages it wont be to far off. Thanks again
I'd get rid of the additional weight. This car is already heavy and adding more weight will only lead to breakage, possibly leaving you with a sore feeling towards the car. The best way to counter balance is via shock tuning. Add a little more tension on heavier side and the car will jump nicely balanced.

My car was Supah Dialed yesterday and if I were a better driver those two D413's would've eaten my dust. Sadly the track deteriorated like mad and mega ruts formed and as I was shooting out of a turn, my right rear caught a rut at almost full speed and it darted my car into a pipe and I fractured the right front arm where the shock mounts up so I was done. But it was nice to battle in 2nd most of the day, being on the heels of those 413's driven by top level drivers.

LOVE this car.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
We had 4 x TD330003 come off backorder if you want one. GP shows back ordered again ...
Thanks for the offer, but I already ordered two sets from ebay. Hopefully I won't need to use the backup I ordered.
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