Konich

iTrader: (9)

Also what rear brace are you using? Plastic, Carbon Fiber or adjustable alloy? For some reason it sounds like you have more flex than it should. Any of the chassis screws stripped (ie: Front diff hoop, bulkheads, etc)? This is hard to notice but any flex in those area's will increase the driveshaft travel.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

I have a v3 410 upgraded to v4 spec excluding the slipper.

I have never had driveshafts pop but I also run a carbon chassis with alloy sidepods so zero flex. I also run the V4 plastic Diff hoops which are heaps stiffer than the V3

I have broken front and rear arms, rear hubs, bent pins cracked front and rear bulkheads, snapped a front tower so its had some hard crashes but never a popped drive shaft.

Here's a picture of the V4 centre UJ and how far they sit in on the v3 Slipper.

Also I have UJ all round zero maintenance and quite, same weight as CVD's.

Lengths printed on mine are
Front Centre UJ=84mm
Rear Centre UJ=70mm
Front Driveshaft UJ=77mm
Rear Driveshaft UJ=61mm

jreeves

iTrader: (10)

Yup, that's why I figured it'd be a drop-in fit for the front center cvd in the DEX. I didn't even bother to remove the bevel gear assembly from my spare DESC cvd, I just removed the DEX rear diff case and swapped the diffs.

After I carefully dremeled the center slipper outdrive cup I realized it would have been easier to just grind flats in the cvd pins, and would probably spread the load better into the outdrive.

vito

haven't got done with the kit need a new shock body I mess on up bad

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@incubus: my car is significantly different than yours. I'm running the alum servo mount and my top brace is modified with inserts made from cut off ball cups. Just looking at your pics briefly I can tell you my drive shafts don't sit that deep. Again I'm telling you its the drive shaft length!

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I'll post pictures, again every should look at the length. Some shafts are 70mm vs the 68mm on some older cars.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I've attached pics for clarity. Looks like my drive shafts are much shorter than the pics I've seen posted here. The durango site lists the Ujoints at 70mm and my CVDs are 68mm for the MID rear joints. Seems the front is 84mm.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

does anyone have a stock V4 they can post pics? I'm hoping if I get a new kit I wouldn't have this issue.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@pittster: your shafts go much deeper lol Did your V3 kit come with 68mm CVD's for the center joints originally? Or were they 70mm?

vito

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

Original v3 CVD in mine were 68mm but in that picture above they are the 70mm UJ shafts

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Your shafts sit just as deep as mine do. There's definitely something wrong. I am running the plastic brace for balance because I lightened the car up as much as possible and it was too heavy for durability. When I was done I was a bit front heavy and then swapped out the brace for the plastic one and then removed my side weights and kept just the rear skid plate and it was a bit lighter overall with better front to rear balance. Oh and I ditched the aluminum side plates to shave a bit more weight. Breakage has been reduce to next to nothing. Knock on wood.

And it's still heavy!

This car really NEEDS a proper CF chassis to drop weight, and not some absurdly overpriced one either. CF is NOT as expensive as people make it seem.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Incubus: Sorry dude but that's not really the most helpful comment. I know something is wrong that's why I'm here asking questions and comparing notes. When I look at your most recently posted pics it seems VERY obvious your shafts go deeper into the cup than mine. you are not running the same slipper. So your car and my car don't really compare. Apples and Oranges.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Vito. Looks like your center rear shaft also sits much deeper than mine. Would make sense if they are 70mm instead of 68mm like mine is. It seems like going back to the standard slipper would also help as it seems to be longer.

I think I will upgrade the center drive shaft portion to UJoints and perhaps get the alum diff hoops to help prevent the pop out issue. It's possible some screws are loose as well so I'll go thru the car to check.

Thanks All for sharing and comparing.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Unless there's a bad run of shafts I don't see how yours can be so short that they pop out repeatedly unless you had such a nasty impact that it softened your chassis to the point it now has excessive flex.

I also told you that another person at my local track has your exact setup and his shafts look identical to mine and also never pop out, hence why I believe something is not quite right. The 410 was at one point the most popular wheeler at both my local tracks and no one had this issue, that I can recall.