Pittster

iTrader: (5)

So Having never known how much the alloy side pods weigh I grabbed a mates Dex410 plastic side pods and compared to my own.

The difference was 5g and the alloy side pod has velcro and chassis protector on it so it would be nearly the same.

hockeyrules16

My buggy is feeling kind of wishy washy almost like the front end is pulling the buggy through the corners too much what should I do with diff fluid to fix this I am running 7k front and 3k rear

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

A little info on you or setup will help.

You have any weight anywhere on the car? I run the rear skid plate with 7k/3.5k and it's about 40/60 rear bite wise and it's planted. Also what shock oil you running? I'm running 32 28 and it's a nice balance. Plenty of grip.

Tires is something else to consider. Double D's are an excellent starting point and you can move to 3D's in the rear if it begins to loosen up a bit and when there's even less grip, DD's up front and Splitters in the rear. Splitteds are amazing and the fine pins wear out slower than most tires I've ever used.

hockeyrules16

I have 20 grams in front of the rear diff and my shock oil is 42.5 front and 40 rear

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Try a front swaybar or stiffer front spring if you don't have one.

hockeyrules16

I have a front swaybar on but not a rear

vito

need help the rear hing pin the spacers 1 mm in fornt 2 mm in the back lot of play?

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Get the rear skid plate and your shock oil seems a bit too heavy. As such your car cannot squat as it requires to dig in. When it's too stiff it can cause the tires to simply slide when under acceleration and doesn't behave as you would prefer.

Try 35/30 lose the front sway bar and move the weight further rearward. This car is really well balanced front to rear so to force a little more rear wheel bias you want to place a touch more weight closer to the rear wheels, but you want a little bit of give in the rear suspension to make full use of that bias.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Just try the Dino Delemos set up off petit rc, it's really good. Then adjust as needed from there, but it'll be very close

ekt

iTrader: (4)

There should be an amended manual page included in your kit, you need to use 2mm spacers on both sides.

vito

thanks it fixs now

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

So back to the front A-arm Durability question. I broke 4 or 5 arms tonight at OCRC. Not fun....and a little expensive. These are the new V4 arms. First arm I broke landing a little too nose down and all on one side off one of the triples. This didn't feel like it should have happened. Last time after I broke a bunch of arms I rebuilt the car with plastic spacers all around instead of alum in an effort to give the car a bit of give in a crash. Of course if you don't crash you don't break...but it sure felt like it was too easy to break an arm. 3 of them in the same spot on the track....Double after the straight away, where I would sometimes carry too much speed and I would fly into the guard wall catching the right front tire and ripping the arm clean off. Every single time I'd break an arm I'd bend the inside hinge pin too. I went through every pin I had, so I had some Tresrey, Some stock, and some Lunsford Ti....all bent.

I know I know...don't crash no break....Ouch though. I'm gonna order a D413 and compare side by side....

tobamiester

iTrader: (359)

Try McMaster Pins. Run them in my DESC410 and never break. Get 91595A146 and dremel them to fit.

I did break arms in my v3, and didn't find the v4 arms any more durable. I don't think the arms on this car are any more or less durable than other stock 4wd buggy arms on other cars.

Dino_D

Well I always find that the DEX410 in stock form (factory settings) to be a little bit on the loose side where the back end moves around a lot.
To fix this, first I would go to a heavier rear sway 1.5mm. This helps with the rear rolling too much. Also I add the lower brass plate on the chassis and the +1 degrees rear toe blocks to give 4 degrees of toe. Then you can reduce your rear toe if you need more steering.

What pistons are you running? I run these settings.
front: 42wt 2x1.6
rear: 32wt 2x1.7
If the track has a lot of sections which requires heavy braking, then I would opt to use 45wt up front. My setups are on Petit RC if you want to look it up as a base setup to work with.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

13Maschine, get the B-Spec arms as well as the Hardened McMaster-Carr pins as tobameister suggested.

I went through an identical spree of busted arms in a single day and was furious, but they were A-spec arms. Now with the capture screw there's no longer any tension on any of the pins and arm ends and have not broken an arm since. [knock on wood]