Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
Tech Regular
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With speed passion motors this works good I use these screws and washers on all my speed passion motors.
I also use a 2.5mm ball end Allen key to do the bottom screw in the 410 up.


I'm running a 19t with a 7.0 at my small track. I'd say 18 is probably the smallest you can fit

installed carbon chassis
car down to 1604g now without shell & 60g weight (30g skid and 30g under diff) in the rear.
car down to 1604g now without shell & 60g weight (30g skid and 30g under diff) in the rear.
Tech Regular
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Tech Master
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@LiL Jason: which CF chassis did you go with?
As far as my motor screws go, Usually my motor screw is so close to the spur I can't use a washer underneath. I usually run 21/87 with a 6.5 or 5.5. I'll try some 3x8 again but last time it seemed like they went too far into the motor...causing it to bind a bit.
Looks like you are running stock gearing? 17.5? or maybe 13.5? based on your signature I think 17.5?
I'll post some pics later. I've also made a ball end hex driver that is shorter by sliding it into the handle a bit more. This makes it easy to reach the screws. I usually plug the battery in next to the car and this way i can adjust the mesh while the car is on and I can test with the throttle.
As far as my motor screws go, Usually my motor screw is so close to the spur I can't use a washer underneath. I usually run 21/87 with a 6.5 or 5.5. I'll try some 3x8 again but last time it seemed like they went too far into the motor...causing it to bind a bit.
Looks like you are running stock gearing? 17.5? or maybe 13.5? based on your signature I think 17.5?

I'll post some pics later. I've also made a ball end hex driver that is shorter by sliding it into the handle a bit more. This makes it easy to reach the screws. I usually plug the battery in next to the car and this way i can adjust the mesh while the car is on and I can test with the throttle.

whats the stock size of motor mount bolts
Tech Master
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Thanks guys for getting a little off topic to compare the D413. Don't get me wrong I think the Durangos are great. I think the 210 is a great car. I love many things about my 410. I've definitely considered doing a conversion to shorty. I know it's not too tough. Seems a little hard to get the balance right as you guys are discussing though. If I end up getting a new v4 kit I will probably convert my older v3 into a shorty setup.
Tech Regular
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@13Maschine
Yep 17.5 33/81
Shorty setup takes about 30 min of dremelling and modifying depending on your batteries.
It does make the rear looser if grip is down I mainly did it to get weight down for stock.
Yep 17.5 33/81
Shorty setup takes about 30 min of dremelling and modifying depending on your batteries.
It does make the rear looser if grip is down I mainly did it to get weight down for stock.

I'm using the 8racing one which I got for 40% a while back.
Carbon chassis with plastic pods, titanium turn buckles, small bore shocks, shorty but added 30g under the diff (the weight compensates for the ~100g loss on the batt section as the weight sits further back to the rear instead of the rear/mid where the saddle normally is.
Diff I'm using the composite gears but using 2 gears instead of 4. Saved 1.5g rotational small each diff and also removed all the diff cup protectors and all that.
Carbon chassis with plastic pods, titanium turn buckles, small bore shocks, shorty but added 30g under the diff (the weight compensates for the ~100g loss on the batt section as the weight sits further back to the rear instead of the rear/mid where the saddle normally is.
Diff I'm using the composite gears but using 2 gears instead of 4. Saved 1.5g rotational small each diff and also removed all the diff cup protectors and all that.

will the lusford motor mount bolts work?
Tech Regular
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I'm using the 8racing one which I got for 40% a while back.
Carbon chassis with plastic pods, titanium turn buckles, small bore shocks, shorty but added 30g under the diff (the weight compensates for the ~100g loss on the batt section as the weight sits further back to the rear instead of the rear/mid where the saddle normally is.
Diff I'm using the composite gears but using 2 gears instead of 4. Saved 1.5g rotational small each diff and also removed all the diff cup protectors and all that.
Carbon chassis with plastic pods, titanium turn buckles, small bore shocks, shorty but added 30g under the diff (the weight compensates for the ~100g loss on the batt section as the weight sits further back to the rear instead of the rear/mid where the saddle normally is.
Diff I'm using the composite gears but using 2 gears instead of 4. Saved 1.5g rotational small each diff and also removed all the diff cup protectors and all that.
interested to hear your final RTR weight cause 1604g plus maybe 50g is still really light tempts me to loose chassis stiffness and getting plastic side pods to loose some weight.

Hmm interesting I run the same chassis and everything else is the same but with alloy side pods, big bores, 30g skid weight, shorty, all 4 composite gears, shock boots,sway bars front and rear, proline bulldog body and a 30mm fan on a alloy bracket my RTR weight with hole shot 2.0 tires is 1740g
interested to hear your final RTR weight cause 1604g plus maybe 50g is still really light tempts me to loose chassis stiffness and getting plastic side pods to loose some weight.
interested to hear your final RTR weight cause 1604g plus maybe 50g is still really light tempts me to loose chassis stiffness and getting plastic side pods to loose some weight.
One thing I am struggling with is the shorty packs.. my Venom 3800 fits perfectly straight away, but my Turnigy 4200 is just a tad to long.. so what do I need to modify to make it fit??
Cheers
Adrian H

My v5 & v5.2 are 1705g and 1533g without tires or body..I think it was without tires, can't remember now.
Tech Master
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I think the lunsford motor mount bolts heads are too big actually. You'll probably want regular titanium cap head screws...

link ty