wicker9

iTrader: (4)

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...oDEX410v3.html

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ngoDEX410.html

and specifically:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...herWheels.html

great info

I have the HB hexes on mine and we used JC for the B4 for my sons. Just got to grind and or shim to get the desired offset.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

The avid hex set allows for two different rear width settings. The Proline and Jconcepts fit as well if you wanted to buy just a one set.

Up front I use the Shumacher K1 12mm hexes for AKA wheels and TLR 22-4 wheels. I've also used the Durango 10mm alum hexes for B44.2 front wheels but I've found these tend to round out the wheels fairly easily compared to a 14mm or 12mm wheel running 6.5Turn Mod motors.

Here's some pics to help...

wicker9

iTrader: (4)

+1....... The DEX410 SPEC originally came w the 10mm hexes (I'm pretty sure)
You have to be diligent putting the wheels on. Its easy to ruin a brand new set if you don't get them seated completely

but.... its easy to share wheels with the many who are running the B44...

rcboy1

Thank you all for the help, you guys got a very supportive group in this thread! Petit RC has saved me many times, there is a lot of great info on there. I will be ordering some parts!

Again thanks for the help, I do not actually have the car yet so its difficult for me to compare or try anything

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

In Australia 17.5 (4wd Stock) is the second biggest class behind 2wd stock, I am in it due to the entries would rather Mod.

Forgot to mention I also have alloy side pods Wheels, tyres and foams can vary the weight a fair bit also.

Thats nice and light but what you have there.

I run Speed passion gear and have tried alot of gearing combo's I also have a 21-30deg timming board

With 30deg of timming and 32/75 I had good pace but my fan died on the motor and it thermalled,then next race motor came loose and I stripped my 75 spur so now running a 81

Next meet I am running 12.5mm high torque rotor, 25 deg timming and 33/81 will see how it goes.

This is on a outside large 1/8 size track with a 80ft straight.

Its always a battle of heat vs weight vs speed in 17.5 4wd unless you wanna spend up and get 12.5 high torque killshot motors. Most 4wd stock guys run alot of timming and gearing with 1-2fans and have spare motors just incase

List of gearing combos I have tried choose based on track ambient temp and end of run temps.
30/75= 6.175
31/75= 5.975806452
32/75= 5.7890625
33/75= 5.613636364
31/81= 6.453870968
32/81= 6.2521875
33/81= 6.062727273
34/81= 5.884411765

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

im in aust aswell mate.

damn 32/75, you must of been slow compared to other buggies.

im running 34/75 atm and I could almost keep up with the others. I however lose heaps of power half way through the race. I might drop back to 33 and see what happens.

or try get a 71-72 spur from Schumacher and try gearing that.

how much temp difference do you notice with a fan on the motor?

ajj

iTrader: (18)

I have that exact same problem with losing power half way. I've been running Speed Passion motors but haven't really been able to get them to work in this buggy. I've just got new Killshot to try so hopefully that's better. I've been running 75/31-34. Weight is around 1780g from memory.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

I notice a huge difference in temp 15-25deg its so bad that I thermal if the fan stops.

I actually went faster down the straight with a higher FDR its like the motor never could wind out due to the lack of power going down pinion giving more torque was a bit quicker for me.

I settled on 32/75 for a long time seemed to be the sweet spot for me i.e. not losing power over a race.

Problem is you can never keep up with someone who has a XB4/B44 at 1600g with 2x 40mm fans 60 deg of timming a 12.5 torque rotor and a FDR of 5.25.

These are the really fast 4wd stock cars, at my track anyway. (straight line speed not lap times)

Smokem Racing

Hey guys. Don't want to sound like a broken record but you could try a set of Hiro Seiko titanium screws. You will lose 30-35g overall.

Currently 25% off at our online shop - here's the link again: http://bit.ly/smokem-dex410.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I know this a little off topic but I'm thinking about picking up a D413 again. I love my 410 for the narrow design but I wish I had an easier way to convert to shorty pack setup. I'll probably end up selling my 410v3, the question is will I get a V4 as a replacement or the D413....Part of me wants to go D413 because of local parts availability being more possible than durango it seems.

Has anyone had a chance to compare directly? Owned both, driven both that kinda thing?

Thanks!

vito

I heard the bottom motor mount bolt is hard to get to?

jreeves

iTrader: (10)

With a hex wrench it is, with a allen wrench it isn't.

vito

I heard ball end hexs

jreeves

iTrader: (10)

I can't get it tight enough with a ball-end driver, but my mm ball-ends are old.

Reflexia

iTrader: (10)

Guess it depends on what surface.
The D413 is amazing. You can really feel the difference in the chassis, as its super flexible and has alot of droop vs my Dex410 (v4). This really helps on our rough track but on the carpet track its not such an issue.

The central diff seems to be a little better on the rough dirt track, can't really feel it as much on the carpet (maybe with some more tuning specifically for it)

Parts globally for the D413 have only just recovered from being Unobtainable for a few months now ( did a spur gear weeks back, nothing), let alone getting a new car to play with. If that's fixed for good, it is a great car and if you really want shorties or a little more room in the chassis, its the go.

That said, my v4 is also a rocket on the track and I have no problems with using a brick or saddles and while I think Durango should bring out a central diff ( or someone can make a TeamC conversion kit ) i'm happy with the TwoWay and the uber universal drive shafts ( i have them all round now).
The central rear drive shaft was really the only issue i had with the car, getting cooking hot all the time, but the uni has now removed that issue. I'm still running metal gears ( Mod driver, so who cares about that weight vs durability ) as i'm a little worried about breaking plasting ones.

D413
Slightly easier to drive out the box with it flex and reach on dirt
Open chassis/body, so loose dirt gets in a lot more
Factory Shorty
Jumps flatter ( seems to float to be honest) due to good balance
More room
Spur can be destroyed by loose mount screws easily.


Dex410 V4
Seems more nimble ( responsive to turn control )
definitely heavier
Nose down without on power in jumps.
Universals are amazing
Still my favourite car, never fails me.

Hope that helps.