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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 07-24-2014, 01:36 PM
  #16336  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
If I were you I'd have Hobbico send me an RMA so you can send it in and have them ship you a new kit. If there is a part that is defective they can learn from it and add the cause to their knowledge base to save themselves and more importantly their customers' precious time and money.

One other thing I thought of (just watch thee vid again) was the driveshaft end. You take it apart and roll just the outside portion on a glass surface to see if there is anything off kilter and/or out of square. Just a thought. That wobble looks odd.
Funny thing is I tried that a week into this. Just send another kit, they said no. Now I am swimming in spare parts and a car that seems too want to commit motor suicide. On your slipper do you have any back/forth play? Mine seems to have a lot. Not enough to force the drive shaft from the front of the 2nway slipper, but enough that when you hit the throttle it visibly can be seen moving back and forth.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:43 PM
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The tinkerer and problem solver in me would love to take a stab at your car. I would go nuts trying to isolate the root cause until I found it.

I run the regular slipper set firmly but certainly not locked out and when it's mounted it's static but I will power it up tonight to examine the front shaft as I punch it and let you know, but off the top of my head I don't think it's supposed to move in and out because of how the system is engineered. The bearings hold the slipper assembly in a static position on the central mounts and if it moves it might result in a shot spur because the pinion is only in contact with a sliver of the spur.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
The tinkerer and problem solver in me would love to take a stab at your car. I would go nuts trying to isolate the root cause until I found it.

I run the regular slipper set firmly but certainly not locked out and when it's mounted it's static but I will power it up tonight to examine the front shaft as I punch it and let you know, but off the top of my head I don't think it's supposed to move in and out because of how the system is engineered. The bearings hold the slipper assembly in a static position on the central mounts and if it moves it might result in a shot spur because the pinion is only in contact with a sliver of the spur.
It's definitely moving enough that the pinion would not be completely flush with the spur. There is visible signs of the movement on the spur as well.
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:04 PM
  #16339  
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Sumpin's just not right and "I" would get Hobbico to furnish a full refund or at the very least a brand new kit. I had 2 screws on my 22 strip out on the bottom of the chassis due to wear and nicking a rock and chipping one of the allen slots and they sent me a complete set of screws and a brand new chassis.

This homie truly don't play dat!!! LOL

Sometimes, as unfortunate as it is, you have to resort to being an asshole to get people to listen. Comcast is next on my list. Just need to find the time, but there will be a new but hole to tear soon!!! I just feel bad for the person who answers my call.

Do you happen to know anyone who's been running the car for a while that may be able to assist in assessing the issue? Just like B-man spotting my blocks being in backwards last night, all it takes is an experienced set of eyes to spot something being amiss.
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Sumpin's just not right and "I" would get Hobbico to furnish a full refund or at the very least a brand new kit. I had 2 screws on my 22 strip out on the bottom of the chassis due to wear and nicking a rock and chipping one of the allen slots and they sent me a complete set of screws and a brand new chassis.

This homie truly don't play dat!!! LOL

Sometimes, as unfortunate as it is, you have to resort to being an asshole to get people to listen. Comcast is next on my list. Just need to find the time, but there will be a new but hole to tear soon!!! I just feel bad for the person who answers

Do you happen to know anyone who's been running the car for a while that may be able to assist in assessing the issue? Just like B-man spotting my blocks being in backwards last night, all it takes is an experienced set of eyes to spot something being amiss.
Where I am, no. But I finally have it to where it is smooth. Shimmed the 2way slipper so that it is not super tight, but does not move nearly as much. Also when I had originally built the car, I forgot to thread lock the screws that hold the spindles to the caster blocks and one came unscrewed and threw the little knuckle spacer and washers out. Got a set of new ones, they were silver, and are .5mm too long causing way too much play on the front end. Took the set of black ones out of my ST, and holy crap, it's not trying to kill its self anymore. Problem is those knuckle bushings are nowhere to be found and now my trucks front end is screwed. When I get the D413 built I will take them both and see what drives better with minimal tweaking, the winner stays, the loser ends up in the for sale thread.
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Live and learn. My Dex210 V2, Dest210, and Desc210 are all incredibly good cars. This one just didn't work out. Can I claim California Lemon Law??? Lol
I've actually liked and had better luck with there 4WD stuff than 2WD, hence why i only run 4wd right now lol
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:39 PM
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Anyone want a pretty much brand new set of front and rear U-Joints? Lol. 30% off the $80.00 they cost new.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:18 PM
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sorry I couldn't get linked up to you sooner! I bet I could have figured this one out for you in person. Long beach is so far from Burbank with LA traffic!
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:25 PM
  #16344  
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where can I get a hard copy of a v 3 or 4 book I have on the pc now
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
sorry I couldn't get linked up to you sooner! I bet I could have figured this one out for you in person. Long beach is so far from Burbank with LA traffic!
Lol...I know. Well we shall see what happens after the test.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:28 PM
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@Jcopeland1: Yeah… I wish you had extra center drive shafts. I need those more than the UJoints but I kinda want them too. Let me know when you are headed out again and I'll try to meet up with you. Sneak out of work
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:31 PM
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Has anyone used the Hobbywing Xerun 3.1 in their 410? Hows the fit? I haven't really seen any pics of it mounted up yet. I like the idea that it has an all aluminum case that is designed to thermally attach (via thermal mounting tape) to the alum chassis. I always thought it would be worth trying to mount the heatsink to the chassis directly…..

Speed Passion hasn't gotten back to me about a couple of issues I've been trying to work out and I'm growing more impatient. I haven't seen anything that compares with the feature set of the SP Reventon though. I love the replaceable wires, and it's a good size. I do wish they would put the power wires farther apart though, more like the orion. Easy to have a dead short when they are super close like that.

Anyone running the Orion R10 and love it? I'd like to get something that is iOS compatible if possible….
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I've just noticed that at full lock my wheels will rub a bit on the ball cups. I'm using the Lunsford titanium ball studs and super duty ball cups so this may be part of the reason. I'm also running the JConcepts Inverse wheels with the 10mm hexes. So my offset could be a little different. It seems minimal and I could probably dial it out with a bit of EPA adjustment. It's smooth when I take the wheels off and I suspect it will also be smoother with the Durango wheels and 14mm hexes. With the brushless horsepower and low turns I think 14mm is better anyway. I've rounded off a few 12mm hexes.
update….When I use the 14mm hexes and Durango Wheels they don't rub at all. I also have 12mm hexes so I will try running TYPOs and 2WD fronts and see if they rub as well...
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:48 PM
  #16349  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Has anyone used the Hobbywing Xerun 3.1 in their 410? Hows the fit? I haven't really seen any pics of it mounted up yet. I like the idea that it has an all aluminum case that is designed to thermally attach (via thermal mounting tape) to the alum chassis. I always thought it would be worth trying to mount the heatsink to the chassis directly…..

Speed Passion hasn't gotten back to me about a couple of issues I've been trying to work out and I'm growing more impatient. I haven't seen anything that compares with the feature set of the SP Reventon though. I love the replaceable wires, and it's a good size. I do wish they would put the power wires farther apart though, more like the orion. Easy to have a dead short when they are super close like that.

Anyone running the Orion R10 and love it? I'd like to get something that is iOS compatible if possible….
I ran a V3.1 since TrakPower doesn't have a speed control with a fan that can be mounted. Loved it in my XB4, and it works great in the V4 (now that it is working). It's small, relatively cheap for that caliber of speed control, and the program box is cheap the best thing is the power button on the unit instead of being on a dangling switch. I have also an R10 Pro 10.1 that will go into the HB buggy. It's essentially a more expensive rebranded Hobbywing, nothing to write home about. My favorite speed control still for a wheeler is an LRP Flow a Works Team with an LRP motor. Faster then the rest, can take higher temps and not fry, and the torque control when running all LRP is nice.
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:54 PM
  #16350  
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where to get a hard copy of a 410 v 3 or 4 book I download the one on line need a hard copy
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