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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 07-23-2014, 04:29 PM
  #16306  
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Finally managed to get a video up of my problem with my V4 on YouTube. Check it out and see what you think. I'm at a total loss. I have rebuilt the entire front end 3 times with new parts and the same is happening, but only now when I turn it to the right, if I turn it to the left it is smooth as butter and no problems with the drivetrain freezing up under breaking.

Link to video: http://youtu.be/3DWJc_h2tZ0
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Old 07-23-2014, 04:41 PM
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If anybody needs a BB spring set I have fr/rr set in f/s
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:16 PM
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I find it weird, this forum runs off of single threads to discuss anything involving a specific mode/build. I always thought it would clear up and make a forum a lot more useful.

But in fact I see it quite boring to see 110 dedicated page threads to have to fish up what your looking for than thumb through a handful of the same questions with different answers on several threads asking "About XXX or YYY" pulled from a Google search and find several answers and variations to grasp a few answers. Then again having to fish through 900 pages.


These threads are like reading a dam dictionary lol
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Finally managed to get a video up of my problem with my V4 on YouTube. Check it out and see what you think. I'm at a total loss. I have rebuilt the entire front end 3 times with new parts and the same is happening, but only now when I turn it to the right, if I turn it to the left it is smooth as butter and no problems with the drivetrain freezing up under breaking.

Link to video: http://youtu.be/3DWJc_h2tZ0
I mentioned front wheel balance in the other thread. I also just thought of your CVD's. If you have to long of a set screw or loctite in the barrel it will cause that also. I would take them out of the car. Both sides, and check by hand if they both have the same amount of freedom/movement. Also look to see if anything is binding while oscilating them in your hands.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:18 PM
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Looking at this vid I notice the driveshaft is pretty true except towards the outer end, where I also notice a butload of jiggling and play all over the place, which is likely the cause of the issue. With the inside of the shaft not moving much at all it seems the issue is not originating in the gearbox.

Are you absolutely positive the correct washers are in there where they're supposed to be? Also is it just the one side or both?

I'm going to limp into my garage and grab my 410 and a wheel wrench to take good close ups of my front end so you can compare and let us know if it's any different. Give me 5 minutes and I'll post them up.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:33 PM
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Here are the pics. I use all metal hardware and prefer a longer wheelbase which you can see in the pics. Hope this helps solve your issue.


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Old 07-23-2014, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Here are the pics. I use all metal hardware and prefer a longer wheelbase which you can see in the pics. Hope this helps solve your issue.


Dude! How does your car drive??? You have your castor blocks on backwards! The 21 should be on the backside, with the Team Durango logo facing forward!
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
I need to do that as well. But I may go into a full disassembly to see if I might have built something wrong causing the shaking in the front end to only be on the right hand side now when turning. The left is perfectly smooth when steering to the left.
Any chance you can post a video so we can all see exactly? sorry if I"m repeating....

I've noticed while I examine my car that If I turn the wheels to full lock it seems that side will bind a little bit... it seems minor when I am just turning things by hand. Is this what you are seeing?

I think your brother (or other relation?) Mcopeland was having trouble with the rear diff? I had a hard time following all the posts...sorry! Please fill me in I bet between Bman, Incubus, and myself we can work it out.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Looking at this vid I notice the driveshaft is pretty true except towards the outer end, where I also notice a butload of jiggling and play all over the place, which is likely the cause of the issue. With the inside of the shaft not moving much at all it seems the issue is not originating in the gearbox.

Are you absolutely positive the correct washers are in there where they're supposed to be? Also is it just the one side or both?

I'm going to limp into my garage and grab my 410 and a wheel wrench to take good close ups of my front end so you can compare and let us know if it's any different. Give me 5 minutes and I'll post them up.
Both sides are built exactly the same. This only effects turning to the right. Turning to the left does not cause the problem. I am also using u-joints all around so it's not a dry cvd issue. Everything is manual specific as far as the build goes.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ck_32
These threads are like reading a dam dictionary lol
very true, i'm still new to racing, but fallowing the threads for my cars, i'm learning a ton lol
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Both sides are built exactly the same. This only effects turning to the right. Turning to the left does not cause the problem. I am also using u-all around so it's not a dry cvd issue. Everything is manual specific as far as the build goes.
Take the front CVD's out. It only takes 2 minutes. Then we can rule that out. Check to see if both have the same angle of oscilation. Then switch tires when putting it back together. So we can rule that out as well........
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:00 PM
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Lol excellent catch!! Can't believe I didn't notice I put them in backwards last time I rebuilt it!!! Lol

I was still pretty out of it when I did it, under pain killers so strong morphine is like Ben gay!! lol just needed something to do to keep from going insane. I was under strict bed rest too which made it interesting with how many times I'd drop a small part under me some where.

I did drive it out back a few days ago though in the open field and didn't notice anything was wrong to be honest. Lol
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:02 PM
  #16318  
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hi
i need some help with my 410v3 it seems to be really loose or swingy in the rear end. i am not yet running any chassis weights, would some help? any other ideas?
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by hockeyrules16
hi
i need some help with my 410v3 it seems to be really loose or swingy in the rear end. i am not yet running any chassis weights, would some help? any other ideas?
well the fastest and cheapest thing to do is to lengthen your rear camber link by moving the the link to the inside of the of the tower if it isn't already there then at the hub. Your next option is to go up in diff fluid in the rear. Lastly I'd increase the front caster. Everything listed is in order of easiest and cheapest.
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Take the front CVD's out. It only takes 2 minutes. Then we can rule that out. Check to see if both have the same angle of oscilation. Then switch tires when putting it back together. So we can rule that out as well........
I am running the u-joints right now. Will rebuild the cvds tonight and throw them in tomorrow and test again. The reason why this is such a concern is that the motor gets super hot really quick. Can't deal with that.
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