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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 07-03-2014, 10:50 PM
  #16201  
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thanks for all the suggestions guys, I was able to make it thru the race night.

Race Report:
I absolutely love this v5!! 1. I hadn't driven the car in months, 2. while sitting my center diff had been leaking (which still hasn't been addressed but will be), 3 had a bent hinge pin that was replaced by one from a B44 (right length but not diameter), 4. Was only able to get 1 practice pack in before racing. 5. Missed a qualifier (shock screw backed out), 6. Seen the layout and only driven it a handful of times with other peoples cars helping them with setup, 7. I never really setup the suspension correctly on the buggy in the first place (felt a little too soft). Even though there were only 3 of us tonight, other 2 guys were slouches by any means, I was able to keep pace at first then push it for the win! Absolutely fantastic car!
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
thanks for all the suggestions guys, I was able to make it thru the race night.

Race Report:
I absolutely love this v5!! 1. I hadn't driven the car in months, 2. while sitting my center diff had been leaking (which still hasn't been addressed but will be), 3 had a bent hinge pin that was replaced by one from a B44 (right length but not diameter), 4. Was only able to get 1 practice pack in before racing. 5. Missed a qualifier (shock screw backed out), 6. Seen the layout and only driven it a handful of times with other peoples cars helping them with setup, 7. I never really setup the suspension correctly on the buggy in the first place (felt a little too soft). Even though there were only 3 of us tonight, other 2 guys were slouches by any means, I was able to keep pace at first then push it for the win! Absolutely fantastic car!
Good to hear! For shocks I'm running 1.4x2 30/32.5 stock blue spring and the rear 1.5x3 27.5/30 stock blue spring. That should help. I'm testing the v2 just in the driveway right now to try and get a similiar holeshot/acceleration out of it. Once I feel it's close I will try it on the track.....
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:14 AM
  #16203  
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im sure its been talked about before but i can't find it. Has anybody tried a single shorty instead of a saddle? what changes did it make to the feel of the car?
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by hockeyrules16
im sure its been talked about before but i can't find it. Has anybody tried a single shorty instead of a saddle? what changes did it make to the feel of the car?
There are pics on here and the internet. It will make the car more responsive and a bit looser. Go down to a light green spring in the rear if you do.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
So I have the steering where I want it for the most part. problem is I have a problem with the tail end wanting to step out. Running 6X1.0 dual taper pistons rear, 5X1.0 fronts, 35 wt. oil in front, 27.5 wt. in rear, upper camber links in the rear tower, upper camber links in the front tower. All is good until I get to a very tight S turn, then the apex happens and I go whipping around. Tires are typos which offer a lot of grip, and steering at my practice track. Need help getting the tail end to stay down. Tried Ryan Lutz Reedy Race setup, was not good for this layout in very tight sections. Any help would be appreciated. This is a new V4 buggy, running saddles in the rear with the chassis weight set trying to keep it stuck on the track.
Try running this setup. It works on both dirt and clay. From Low to high bite in both indoors (running Ion M4) and outdoors (X2 scrubs front and M3 suburbs/hotshots). The only running changes we do is 1.1mm sway for tight tracks, and 1.3mm say for bigger high speed tracks. Adjust the oils 1wt down if the temp is under 25C.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...Raceway201406/
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:39 AM
  #16206  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Try running this setup. It works on both dirt and clay. From Low to high bite in both indoors (running Ion M4) and outdoors (X2 scrubs front and M3 suburbs/hotshots). The only running changes we do is 1.1mm sway for tight tracks, and 1.3mm say for bigger high speed tracks. Adjust the oils 1wt down if the temp is under 25C.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...Raceway201406/
Very close to that setup now. Except I am running 5x1mm machined tapered pistons front 6x1mm machines tapered springs in the rear. Will have to try going lighter on the shock oil as it has been very hot and muggy indoors. Like 35,27.5
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Very close to that setup now. Except I am running 5x1mm machined tapered pistons front 6x1mm machines tapered springs in the rear. Will have to try going lighter on the shock oil as it has been very hot and muggy indoors. Like 35,27.5
2x1.6 vs 5x1.0 have very similar pack ratios (4.0 vs 3.9) Same with the 2x1.7 vs 6x1.0 (4.5 vs 4.7). I find the less but bigger holes is better on bumps as it unsettles less, whereas more holes and smaller will give much more pack over jumps even though the ratios are similar which is great if your track is smooth with big jumps. But on bumpy tracks, it tends to hop a little bit more.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
There are pics on here and the internet. It will make the car more responsive and a bit looser. Go down to a light green spring in the rear if you do.
I am currently running the Trakpower Square pack. It is only 30 grams heavier than the saddle pack I was running. Fits with no Mod. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEGXT&P=SM

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Old 07-07-2014, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Good to hear! For shocks I'm running 1.4x2 30/32.5 stock blue spring and the rear 1.5x3 27.5/30 stock blue spring. That should help. I'm testing the v2 just in the driveway right now to try and get a similiar holeshot/acceleration out of it. Once I feel it's close I will try it on the track.....
Can you fit the center diff on your shorty setup?
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Try running this setup. It works on both dirt and clay. From Low to high bite in both indoors (running Ion M4) and outdoors (X2 scrubs front and M3 suburbs/hotshots). The only running changes we do is 1.1mm sway for tight tracks, and 1.3mm say for bigger high speed tracks. Adjust the oils 1wt down if the temp is under 25C.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...Raceway201406/
Hello Dino,

You run the plastik rear brace on your set-up.
Is that for more flex in the chassis?
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Old 07-08-2014, 05:04 AM
  #16211  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Can you fit the center diff on your shorty setup?
Not sure with that layout/setup. With the v5 I can run a shorty across the rear...
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:30 AM
  #16212  
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Originally Posted by micholix
Hello Dino,

You run the plastik rear brace on your set-up.
Is that for more flex in the chassis?
Yes I run the plastic rear brace along with 1 degree hubs (4 degrees total) for low to med bite. I also loosen one of the screws on the brace if I need additional rear grip. If I run on high bite indoor clay, I switch to the carbon brace and may opt to run the standard hubs (3 degrees)

Let me know how the setup works for you.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Yes I run the plastic rear brace along with 1 degree hubs (4 degrees total) for low to med bite. I also loosen one of the screws on the brace if I need additional rear grip. If I run on high bite indoor clay, I switch to the carbon brace and may opt to run the standard hubs (3 degrees)

Let me know how the setup works for you.
Hi Dino,

Thx for the Infos! I never thought to loose some screws for running the car!
I'll try to get as close as i can to your setup, as i still run a V3, i just have the dual slipper and the 1degree hubs, no 19 degree caster blocks, V4 a-arms and the other bits from the V4!

Last edited by micholix; 07-09-2014 at 03:04 AM.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:58 AM
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I run Dino's set up with the 17* blocks and its fast
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
2x1.6 vs 5x1.0 have very similar pack ratios (4.0 vs 3.9) Same with the 2x1.7 vs 6x1.0 (4.5 vs 4.7). I find the less but bigger holes is better on bumps as it unsettles less, whereas more holes and smaller will give much more pack over jumps even though the ratios are similar which is great if your track is smooth with big jumps. But on bumpy tracks, it tends to hop a little bit more.
Do you know of an aftermarket supplier of pistons for this car? My brother convinced me to buy one and start switching my losi stuff over. Not a big fan of the blow by happening with the molded stock pistons. We both run on very smooth tracks out here in California, I don't see a real need to worry about big bumpy tracks since almost all here minus 8th scale are high grip indoor clay or tight outdoor sugared tracks for 10th scale. Would I be better off just getting the same stuff he has?
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