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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 06-06-2014, 03:16 AM
  #16006  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Wouldn't adding a rear sway (roll) bar decrease rear traction a bit? Especially side to side given it tends to flatten the car? What i have seen is most people run it up front since the car has a tendency to oversteer. Thoughts?
I run swaybars on both ends. It helps with over rotation and smooths out the steering through the apex. Most people confuse side bite or the car washing out due to this. I thought I didn't have enough side bite as well until I experimented. If you have a slight push followed by the car snapping around after the apex of the corner, chances are you have to much side bite then an over rotation because of chassis roll that follows. Reduce rear droop to see if this helps, then add a rear sway and then a front sway, and report back. This was my approach and has worked rather good. Lmk.
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:36 AM
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I'm running 1.1mm in the front, 1.5mm in the rear, I've always run sway bars on the 410
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:32 AM
  #16008  
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Right now my main issues with the car are it's jumping, it has a tendency to nose down and sometimes tumble because of this. Second is that it's a bitch twitchy, tends to dive in to the corner too much or too fast and I end up clipping a pipe. Probably somewhat interrelated. I was actually running a very very light weight shock oil setup last time as an experiment, 20wt with 2 hole 1.2mm pistons in front, and same in back with 3 hole 1.2mm pistons. I'm running the purple O rings. Surprisingly this was pretty decent. We have a Giant quad jump (I've been doing double double) and that's where I'm seeing the trouble mostly. I've just now setup the car with 1.6x2 and 30wt in front and 1.6x3 and 30 wt in the rear. I also have a 35 wt setup with the same pistons on my 210 so I can switch back and fourth. I'm running Dark blue up front with Dark green springs in the rear. I had tried Avid purple springs up front and this seemed to not be enough to hold up the front end of the car and caused it to dive on braking and (less rear droop right?).

I need to pick up some piano wire to make my own roll bars then I'll get back to testing them. I'll try to test the stock ones as well.

Thanks for all the input guys. Forgive my scatterbrains.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:40 AM
  #16009  
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I came to the front shock length modification ideas because I noticed the rear has quite a bit more down travel and also it seems you often end up running the shock collars up front fairly low. My intention was to level the car a bit give it more equal travel front to rear. It seems to run best at around 20-21mm of ride height. If we had a little more down travel up front my guess is that it would jump more like my 210 does.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:58 AM
  #16010  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Right now my main issues with the car are it's jumping, it has a tendency to nose down and sometimes tumble because of this. Second is that it's a bitch twitchy, tends to dive in to the corner too much or too fast and I end up clipping a pipe. Probably somewhat interrelated. I was actually running a very very light weight shock oil setup last time as an experiment, 20wt with 2 hole 1.2mm pistons in front, and same in back with 3 hole 1.2mm pistons. I'm running the purple O rings. Surprisingly this was pretty decent. We have a Giant quad jump (I've been doing double double) and that's where I'm seeing the trouble mostly. I've just now setup the car with 1.6x2 and 30wt in front and 1.6x3 and 30 wt in the rear. I also have a 35 wt setup with the same pistons on my 210 so I can switch back and fourth. I'm running Dark blue up front with Dark green springs in the rear. I had tried Avid purple springs up front and this seemed to not be enough to hold up the front end of the car and caused it to dive on braking and (less rear droop right?).

I need to pick up some piano wire to make my own roll bars then I'll get back to testing them. I'll try to test the stock ones as well.

Thanks for all the input guys. Forgive my scatterbrains.
You should try 40wt with 2x1.6 up front and 27wt rear with 2x1.7. It helps stabilize the car under braking so it doesn't dive. If the temperature goes to 30 degrees Celsius, then use 45wt up front and 30 in the rear. Oil weights control weight transfer. Light oils are great in winter months or when the temperature is cold and you want a lot of weight to shift fast. As the temp heats up or you are running on larger tracks, you should move to heavier weights to slow down the reaction of the car and it helps with excessive body roll.

210v2 I run 3x1.6, 35wt front and 30 rear. if it gets really hot, then 37wt front and 32wt rear.

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Old 06-06-2014, 09:28 AM
  #16011  
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I run a very similar set up with a slightly different piston/oil set up and its dialed, Dino knows how to make this car a rocket ship
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:37 AM
  #16012  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Right now my main issues with the car are it's jumping, it has a tendency to nose down and sometimes tumble because of this. Second is that it's a bitch twitchy, tends to dive in to the corner too much or too fast and I end up clipping a pipe. Probably somewhat interrelated. I was actually running a very very light weight shock oil setup last time as an experiment, 20wt with 2 hole 1.2mm pistons in front, and same in back with 3 hole 1.2mm pistons. I'm running the purple O rings. Surprisingly this was pretty decent. We have a Giant quad jump (I've been doing double double) and that's where I'm seeing the trouble mostly. I've just now setup the car with 1.6x2 and 30wt in front and 1.6x3 and 30 wt in the rear. I also have a 35 wt setup with the same pistons on my 210 so I can switch back and fourth. I'm running Dark blue up front with Dark green springs in the rear. I had tried Avid purple springs up front and this seemed to not be enough to hold up the front end of the car and caused it to dive on braking and (less rear droop right?).

I need to pick up some piano wire to make my own roll bars then I'll get back to testing them. I'll try to test the stock ones as well.

Thanks for all the input guys. Forgive my scatterbrains.

What front castor blocks and have you tried limiting your rear droop at all? More droop seems to kick the rear up while jumping. Also is the D green springs a typo? They should be light green, one step softer on the rear. Also as mentioned heavier oils would help along with a longer rear link. Keep us posted...
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:50 AM
  #16013  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
I run a very similar set up with a slightly different piston/oil set up and its dialed, Dino knows how to make this car a rocket ship
Yeah if you liked the previous shock package that you are currently using from my older setup, this revised one is better.
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:22 PM
  #16014  
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I had a feeling I would end up going heavier in the front and overall. Thats why I'm on 35 wt all the way around with spare shocks at 30wt. I had made a bunch of pistons and wanted to test lighter weight oil. A lot of us have been experimenting with the other side as we call it. Lightweight oil, super small pistons. My 210 seems to work well this way and my 410 is pretty fast. i'm consistently close to track record lap times at SCVRC. I think last I hear it was 14.5 seconds as the fastest lap, it's a fairly small track. I had several 15 second laps last time around. The car was super hard to drive last time out so I DNFd the whole day. Not exactly fast.

I'm running 21 degree castor blocks. I've tested 19 and 17 too and they tend to make the car even more twitchy and difficult to drive smoothly.

Can we clarify what more or less droop means?
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:38 PM
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more droop is more down travel
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:50 PM
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Got it. That's how I understand it as well. Thanks

@Bman: is this the right chart for big bore springs? http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/spri...-chart-big.pdf pretty sure this is what I have.

If so I believe I am correct. I'm running dark blue fronts and dark green rears. So that should mean they are pretty close in rate, right? I understand the geometry has a large effect on the overall rate of the arm but I figured this was a good place to start in terms of balance front to rear. When I do balance tests and drop tests it looks really good. The diving issue I mentioned is almost gone with the current setup. The front and rear seem to rise equally on testing and on the track. It's just dampening that needs some tuning as you guys have mentioned

Thanks again guys. As I mentioned I have two sets of shocks with 30 and 35 wt so I can easily swap back and fourth. I think I'm gonna roll with 30(1.6x3) rear with black springs and 35(1.6x2) front with dark blue for now. It looks great on drop test and balance test on bench. It will settle nicely even if I drop the rear or front first.

Last edited by 13Maschine; 06-06-2014 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:21 PM
  #16017  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Got it. That's how I understand it as well. Thanks

@Bman: is this the right chart for big bore springs? http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...hart-Small.pdf

If so I believe I am correct. I'm running dark blue fronts and dark green rears. So that should mean they are pretty close in rate, right? I understand the geometry has a large effect on the overall rate of the arm but I figured this was a good place to start in terms of balance front to rear. When I do balance tests and drop tests it looks really good. The diving issue I mentioned is almost gone with the current setup. The front and rear seem to rise equally on testing and on the track. It's just dampening that needs some tuning as you guys have mentioned
I don't know if this will help you but I too thought the front to rear down travel was to different so I limited the rear droop so it was closer to the front. For me it made the buggy handle much better. I never thought of trying to get more droop out of the front, I'm interested to find out what your findings are.
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:34 PM
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I'll definitely share what I find! I have a control set and a test set now
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:37 PM
  #16019  
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While we are discussing travel, I mentioned this a while back but I figured I should bring it up again. I've noticed the rear usually requires a limiter outside of the shock on top of the rubber spacer to prevent the driveshaft from binding with the outdrive cup. Without 2mm of a spacer the driveshaft will fall into the slot in the outdrive at full compression.
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:03 PM
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I"m running the middle link on the rear hubs. I've also tried the shorter link…This seems like a fairly minor adjustment and not where I needed to focus at the time so I've left it at the middle for now.

here's some video of the track. Jason from Shortcourse world with some great laps. I don't think I made this video at all DNS… LOL There might be some video of me I'll try to find so we can analyze setup. Ive mounted my go pro on my radio so I will try to shoot more next time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rme3lwrH6P4
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