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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 05-23-2014, 05:01 AM
  #15931  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Exactly what I've been saying. You can't explain it unless you try it. Thank you!! And congrats on your build.... what weight oil in the center?
I KNEW you were going to ask that! Honestly I don't know. The diff itself is very tight and needs to break in before oils will make much of a difference. I'm just running whatever fluid came in it.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:54 AM
  #15932  
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I'm breaking the arms near the castor block. All of my front arm breakage was in this area.

Is there a Durango HD and a regular? Or are the stock pins HD?

Is there a significant weight difference to using the McMaster car pins? I assume you guys buy a couple rods and cut them down to length? What about the difference in diameters on some of the pins?
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:56 AM
  #15933  
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I've just installed a set of ACER ceramic nitride bearings. I think this is probably one of the best upgrades I've made. They are soooooooo smooth.

I've also noticed the stock CVDs up front make a ton of chatter, especially at certain RPMs. Makes the car shake and shimmy on the stand. Do the double jointed shafts work much better? Less chatter? Did you notice a change in steering as well?
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:17 AM
  #15934  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I'm breaking the arms near the castor block. All of my front arm breakage was in this area.

Is there a Durango HD and a regular? Or are the stock pins HD?

Is there a significant weight difference to using the McMaster car pins? I assume you guys buy a couple rods and cut them down to length? What about the difference in diameters on some of the pins?
Not sure on the v4. But if your pin has a smaller dia. in the middle section then they're not HD. The heavy duty ones have the same dia all the way through. Yes you cut the McMaster ones. On the chatter I never tried the double joints but the new universals are better than the cvds. Still some chatter at full lock but better. If your wheels are straight on the stand when applying power then your rims need to be balanced.
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Old 05-23-2014, 11:19 AM
  #15935  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I'm breaking the arms near the castor block. All of my front arm breakage was in this area.

Is there a Durango HD and a regular? Or are the stock pins HD?

Is there a significant weight difference to using the McMaster car pins? I assume you guys buy a couple rods and cut them down to length? What about the difference in diameters on some of the pins?
My breaks were generally on the outside and the B Spec arms is what alleviated the breaking for me.

I got the McMaster pins and cut them down and they're fine. The diameter is identical to the factory pins. But there dense so no weight savings there. Just be sure to cut them a hair long so you can slightly round and smooth the cut end.
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:12 PM
  #15936  
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@incubus: What kind material did you buy for your pins? Seems they have a range of drill blank stock material. Also, 3mm is the larger size and 2.5mm is the smaller size for the 410 right?

Has anyone tried plastic suspension pivot balls, delrin perhaps? If so please share a link to the kind you have tried…Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:13 PM
  #15937  
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Seems like front shock towers are a little bit hard to find right now too. blah.
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:21 PM
  #15938  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Seems like front shock towers are a little bit hard to find right now too. blah.
After breaking two carbon front Towers we started using alloy ones instead. Never broke or bent a front Tower in over 18 months.
(Cutting of the Outer hole on both sides)
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:55 PM
  #15939  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
@incubus: What kind material did you buy for your pins? Seems they have a range of drill blank stock material. Also, 3mm is the larger size and 2.5mm is the smaller size for the 410 right?

Has anyone tried plastic suspension pivot balls, delrin perhaps? If so please share a link to the kind you have tried…Thanks!
Here are the actual sizes the car uses:

2 – M2.5 x 27mm (Outer Front)
2 – M2.5 x 30mm (Outer Rear)
2 – M3 x 45mm (Inner Front)
2 – M3 x 52mm (Inner Rear)


Just buy one bag in each diameter that's long enough for both and cut them down to size.

As for Delrin Pivot balls, I can't remember but I think I had HPI pivot balls in my box and they fit and I'v had them for a while now. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...aign=CompareRC




Absolute seems to have the Fine Tune Shock Tower in stock: http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/shoppi...ort=3a&page=10
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:24 PM
  #15940  
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the non fine tune tower is stronger, or some got lucky, there was a batch of kits that had a 'defective' 5mm front tower, indistructable
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:40 PM
  #15941  
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Has anyone tried a team c centre diff in the 410?
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:46 PM
  #15942  
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It was just announced so I doubt anyone has been able to get their hands on one just yet.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:52 PM
  #15943  
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Ah ok, I'm sure someone will grab one soon and see if can be shoe horned into a 410

Will wait and see! .....
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:09 PM
  #15944  
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considering "their" slipper assembly is identical to the 410, I'm betting it'll fit just fine.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:04 PM
  #15945  
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Originally Posted by Headling
Has anyone tried a team c centre diff in the 410?
A few of us have put center diffs into the car, but not the team C one.

Anything will fit with the right amount of elbow grease. My center diff build uses an 1/8th scale diff.
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