Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Droop I measure from center of the eyelets. Swaybars I run both front and rear to help with chassis roll. The rear seems to make it more consistent and the front seems to help with that snap oversteer or over rotation.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Droop from the eyelets to what?

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

From center to center. Center top shock mount to center of the screw head on the lower.

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

Im having a lot of trouble with the plastic rear skid plate, its catching in the clay and bening out and hitting on the track and stuffing up the handling of the car. If i dont want to run the brass one , is there any other ones people know of that are better than the stock plastic one, as when i run with none at all my chassis is getting worn out right at the bend.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

The stock skid plate is terrible and acts as a plow. If you're running the side weights, ditch them and replace with the bottom skid weight. It's the only way I know to get rid of the plow and it balances the car out really well.

A little tip for protecting your chassis is to use button cap screws at the bends of the chassis because the little protrusion of the heads keeps the chassis from bottoming out so much. They're rounded so they smoothly dig into the surface so the car doesn't catch or anything and they prevent some wear.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Some just don't run the skid plate. I don't know how important it is, but the plastic wears so I cleaned it and heated it up and curved it the opposite of how it turns into a plow, and put it back on, it was fine after that. I just got the skid plate weight so I'll be running that now. It sounds like basically everyone just runs high capacity lipo packs with the skid plate weights, so I figured I'd join the club.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

The 410 is such that it's almost neutrally balanced front to back and adding the brass skid plate adds just enough to make it a wee bit heavier towards the rear which actually balances it out when it comes to jumping. It allows the front end to come up naturally as you let off the throttle and then effortlessly rotates downward as it approaches the landing ramp. Of course with practice you will learn the throttle and correction points specific to your track in order to get it to work effortlessly for you.

stefan plyhm

Try this, I like it.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I've just added the tresrey rear under diff weight. It really balances the car nicely. It's in a great position in terms of being right between the wheels and not hanging out quite as far as the under plate. Usually I try to keep my weights in between the wheels if I can.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I've also just finished a club night racing on the AKA EVO Wheels and Typos in clay compound. I have to say I was very impressed with the tires and wheels. I think It's difficult to get the kind of glue bond you get with the EVO wheels (perhaps shaving the outside lip on standard wheels?) and I noticed immediately that my tires weren't peeling away as they usually do requiring me to re-glue. I usually have to do this at least after a day of practice or racing. I also noticed they hooked up right out of the gate. They did get a little better as the night went on but no slouch from the first pack.

I'm also using the Shumacher K1 hexes up front along with Gold cone washers. It seems to should be easy to make a clamping hex to fit. I wonder if the Xray hexes would fit…

I also picked up a set of Exotek Hexes in 14mm and I will probably using Durango wheels for anything besides typo or maybe the new Deja vu.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to everyone for helping me build up and tune my 410! Love this Forum.

I received my Exotek hexes and it seems they only fit in the rear of the 410. They are just slightly too wide to fit between the hole for the pin and the bearing in the front. They could probably be shaved down to fit as It seems it's really only about .1mm clearance that is needed, maybe even less. Has anyone noticed this? Maybe mine are a little off?

I'm still searching for some Tresrey clamping hexes, anyone have an extra set or know of some for sale, please PM me. Thanks!

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Yup, mine were the same way, had to file them a bit thinner I wasn't too pleased. Once I filed them down I think 1 isn't strait as one wheel has a little wobble, next time I have access to a mill I'll true it up.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@RCJunky: Exotek confirmed I should try sanding it down. I'll have to make sure I keep mine flat. I like the design and Exotek makes a great product. They mentioned their has been some tolerancing issues with durango parts and thus sometimes things don't line up quite right. I wonder if it's also due to V3/V4 differences as they front drives shafts are different on the V4.

Are you still using them or do you have something else?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Finally had a chance to run the new 2 way slipper at SCVRC. Have to say I love it. Very easy to adjust and it seemed to have a nice operating range. I started off tight to make sure I didn't blow it up with my new 5.0 motor and as the night went on I would loosen it up just a touch. it really made the car easier to drive. Less of the bounce you get on tough jumps and I felt like I could get on the throttle much sooner.

All that being said I wonder if durango will adopt a center diff for the V5 car? Maybe they will just call it the Bman410?

nitro-rob

Not a Team C fan but I get my ass handed to me by a pair of those every week. The drivers are good but they seemed to get better when they moved to that centre motor design car.