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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-31-2014, 01:22 AM
  #15571  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
So I finally broke a part on my buggy. It was the front bulkhead. I noticed that the part is back ordered on most of the big online stores. Does this mean that this is a weak point on the car? Is so does anyone have ideas on how to beef up this area.
no, never broke that part. neither buggy nor short course truck.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:42 AM
  #15572  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Has anyone tried playing with the spindle height on these cars? I have mine in stock config and noticed my new UJ's rubbing on the lower castor block. So I switched the shims, 2mm on top and 1mm on the bottom to put the driveshaft more in the middle. Just wondering what affect I will notice after doing so. Thanks...
It changes the roll center when you put the 2mm on top. It lowers the roll center, and I find it better when the track is rough. It makes the steering less aggressive.

Having the 2mm on the bottom (std stock position) raises the roll center. Better on smooth tracks, more off power steering, makes steering more aggressive.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:31 AM
  #15573  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
It changes the roll center when you put the 2mm on top. It lowers the roll center, and I find it better when the track is rough. It makes the steering less aggressive.

Having the 2mm on the bottom (std stock position) raises the roll center. Better on smooth tracks, more off power steering, makes steering more aggressive.
Do you feel it is a more dramatic move vs moving the camber link position? Thanks!
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:25 AM
  #15574  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Do you feel it is a more dramatic move vs moving the camber link position? Thanks!
Well going 2mm on top is like raising the camber link 1mm, but changing the shim also affects your droop and ride height and bump steer.

Its a quick adjustment to tune the sensitivity or feel of the car, as not only am I changing roll but also droop which is the total down travel your front end has. More Down travel in the front will give you more predictable landing off of jumps. It will also give you less steering as you exit the corner on power. Less Down Travel in the front will make your car less predictable landing off of jumps. The advantage of less down travel is increased corner exiting steering when you are on power.

The spindle height will also change the amount of bump steer your car has. Just make sure you adjust the steering knuckle by 1mm when you do the change.

I use this adjustment to quickly see if increasing or decreasing the downtravel in my shocks will provide the corner handling that I desire.

I prefer 2mm on top when conditions are loose and bumpy. Stock position if the grip is high and the track is smooth.

And yes its a bigger change than the camber link alone. Try it one day and see which you like better.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:16 PM
  #15575  
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Anybody know what the kit springs are v4? It looks like black front and light blue rear.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
Anybody know what the kit springs are v4? It looks like black front and light blue rear.
I don't have a V4 but I'm assuming the same as every other kit. Dark Blue front/light blue rear.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:16 PM
  #15577  
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What's everyone running for rear droop (center of eyelets)? I wanted to try the longest link position and upper inner location but it rubs the rim. I had to limit my droop to about 95/96 so it didn't. Just curious. Thanks...
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
What's everyone running for rear droop (center of eyelets)? I wanted to try the longest link position and upper inner location but it rubs the rim. I had to limit my droop to about 95/96 so it didn't. Just curious. Thanks...
I'm using 12mm hex mod, wheel is close, but just clear. Later changed to use the inner most hole on the hub though. (shorter link, better camber gain)
Maybe you should use the durango's special bent ball cup?
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:06 PM
  #15579  
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the ball cup on my 410 was starting to rub, so i got the bent ball cup, but i would also advise getting the 210 rear turnbuckle too as its shorter, because the bent ball cup is longer and you have to screw it very far into the original turnbuckle and not sure if the short link location wud be posible!
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:52 AM
  #15580  
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Hey All….I've noticed on the setup sheets there is an option for a rear plastic brace (The other option is the Carbon, which is standard on the V3,V4) but I don't see a rear plastic brace option….ideas?
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:00 AM
  #15581  
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Plastic brace comes with the v3r model but you want the carbon fiber rigidity.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:13 AM
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seems everyone is after a 12mm hex solution for the front…can we recap what people have found works? wheel and hex combos please.

Schumacher Cat K1 Aero Aluminum Front Wheel Hex Set (2)
[SCHU4507]
with Losi 22-4 style front wheels
maybe the AKA EVO 22-4 wheel as well?
[AKA23313W]

I've been using the Durango 9.5mm with B44 wheels but I'd prefer bigger hexes...
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:15 AM
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@incubus, I was thinking it might be a decent tuning option. Give the rear end a little more flex. Have you tried the brass rear brace "flex brace system" ?

…I woke up at 3:03 am pacific time so yeah
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:16 AM
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Who's running AKA EVO wheels and loving them? hating them?
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:18 AM
  #15585  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
What's everyone running for rear droop (center of eyelets)? I wanted to try the longest link position and upper inner location but it rubs the rim. I had to limit my droop to about 95/96 so it didn't. Just curious. Thanks...
Update: after looking at the ballstud location on the rear hub. It is offset. Meaning it is not directly in the middle of the rim to gain the most clearance. With that being said Exotek makes hubs were the are mounted vertical and directly in the center line of the rim. Does anyone run them, and do you have problems breaking studs. Thanks for any replies....
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