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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-24-2014, 10:16 AM
  #15511  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
I'm a little confused on when I would want to adjust the center slipper. I mostly run on ozite carpet and the kit set up is pretty good. Can someone explain when or why I would want to play with this tuning option.
Are you running the V3 or V4?
V3. On slippery tracks you want to adjust the slipper so that you don't get wheelspin on acceleration.

V4. By making holes on the front or rear slipper pad, you can adjust the power bias more to the front or rear kinda like running a center diff. Making 4-6 2mm holes in the rear pad will make the car more front drive or running a light center diff, and making the holes in the front pad will make it rear drive or like running a thicker center diff.
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:53 AM
  #15512  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
I ran the new slipper when it first came out (last year). I could definitely feel a difference in the car. It was more stable and a bit easier to drive. The negative: the nut seems to loosen up on me, even with loctite. Still not as good as my center diff though.....
center diff?

i ended up with the v3. would the dual slipper fit directly on the v3?


amain doesn't have full kit in stock. However, if i already have spur and standard durango slipper pad, can i get parts 210036 and 210037, would that complete the dual slipper?
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:03 AM
  #15513  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
center diff?

i ended up with the v3. would the dual slipper fit directly on the v3?
yep, it started as an "upgrade" for V3.

*can hardly find any feedback on the two way slipper, the only thing I can found are:
1. old school way is to drill four 2mm hole on rear side slipper pad.
2. need to tighten the slipper screw a lot just to make it work.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:29 AM
  #15514  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
yep, it started as an "upgrade" for V3.

*can hardly find any feedback on the two way slipper, the only thing I can found are:
1. old school way is to drill four 2mm hole on rear side slipper pad.
2. need to tighten the slipper screw a lot just to make it work.
drill four 2mm hole on rear of slippler? what's this?
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:35 AM
  #15515  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
drill four 2mm hole on rear of slippler? what's this?
i guess it's to let rear slipper slip more (mostly for acceleration), so work like a diff under acceleration. (more power to the front, less likely to spin out).
Under braking, the rear is almost off the ground anyways, don't need to worry about rear slipper action there.

*with the team drivers using 500K-1M center diff oil in their 4wd SCT, I think the V3 slipper works just fine, easier to adjust, and more reliable (nut won't came loose).
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:40 AM
  #15516  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
center diff?

i ended up with the v3. would the dual slipper fit directly on the v3?


amain doesn't have full kit in stock. However, if i already have spur and standard durango slipper pad, can i get parts 210036 and 210037, would that complete the dual slipper?
Yup center diff! I run 100k in mine...
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:43 AM
  #15517  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
i guess it's to let rear slipper slip more (mostly for acceleration), so work like a diff under acceleration. (more power to the front, less likely to spin out).
Under braking, the rear is almost off the ground anyways, don't need to worry about rear slipper action there.

*with the team drivers using 500K-1M center diff oil in their 4wd SCT, I think the V3 slipper works just fine, easier to adjust, and more reliable (nut won't came loose).
i'm not following. Is this drill hole to current v3 slipper or the dual v4 slipper? my question is, is the v4 slipper is a direct fit on the v3?
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:50 AM
  #15518  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
i'm not following. Is this drill hole to current v3 slipper or the dual v4 slipper? my question is, is the v4 slipper is a direct fit on the v3?
Yes it is a direct fit, and you can drill the pads on any style slipper.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:53 AM
  #15519  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Yes it is a direct fit, and you can drill the pads on any style slipper.
ok, thanks!
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:19 PM
  #15520  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Yes it is a direct fit, and you can drill the pads on any style slipper.
Drilling the hole is a effective way of changing the power bias to front and rear on the V4 slipper.
Alternatively you can use different pads. However, using different pads causes a greater difference to the bias.
Durango pad vs AE B4 pad vs the B4 high torque pad.
There are other pad manufacturers which I have not been able to test as of yet.


you can buy these 2 options to convert it any current v3
#TD210036 - TWO WAY SLIPPER HUBS
#TD210037 - TWO WAY SLIPPER FIXINGS
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:27 PM
  #15521  
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I'm running the v4. So basically the only way to adjust front or rear bias with the two way slipper is to drill holes? If one is to just adjust the slipper tension it will effect both front and rear equally? I think I got it. Makes spence if there is less contact area"drilling holes" that side will slip sooner. Thanks guys
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:00 PM
  #15522  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Drilling the hole is a effective way of changing the power bias to front and rear on the V4 slipper.
Alternatively you can use different pads. However, using different pads causes a greater difference to the bias.
Durango pad vs AE B4 pad vs the B4 high torque pad.
There are other pad manufacturers which I have not been able to test as of yet.


you can buy these 2 options to convert it any current v3
#TD210036 - TWO WAY SLIPPER HUBS
#TD210037 - TWO WAY SLIPPER FIXINGS
Does Durango say this? If you need to drill holes, then why would they say it's a two way slipper.

Can you drill holes in the older slipper sysem to accomplish the same thing? If so, i see no different than v3 and v4 slipper clutch.
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:19 PM
  #15523  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
Does Durango say this? If you need to drill holes, then why would they say it's a two way slipper.

Can you drill holes in the older slipper sysem to accomplish the same thing? If so, i see no different than v3 and v4 slipper clutch.
Okay let me explain. The original slipper is like any other slipper. Its a fixed axle sandwiched with 2 pads. Whether you drill holes or not or change pads, the unit is still locked (meaning the front and rear slip at the same rate). You can't adjust bias. You can't do this on the AE or Xray either.
Just try holding the rear wheels and press the throttle, either all the 4 wheels spin or they slip.

The v4 slipper (2 way) - allows independent axle slip. I can hold the rear wheels and the front will spin under throttle or the other way around, hence its 2 way. Each pad controls each end. Unlike the previous version, where both pad control the entire slip. You still set the slipper the same as the older v3 method. Given the same pads the slip will be the same. The difference is when you change the surface area via holes or pad material, hence you can make one slip more than the other thus simulating a center diff without all that extra weight. However the difference is it will still slip independently transferring power to the pad with the most friction first. A center diff will not slip and allow the transfer of power, but its gonna be harder on your drive train (center axles) without some transmission slip.

Originally Posted by Sodakota
I'm running the v4. So basically the only way to adjust front or rear bias with the two way slipper is to drill holes? If one is to just adjust the slipper tension it will effect both front and rear equally? I think I got it. Makes spence if there is less contact area"drilling holes" that side will slip sooner. Thanks guys
That is correct. Either change pads for a greater bias, or drill holes for a slight bias change. You will find that when running on low to med bite tracks, having the rear slip a bit more than the front will allow you to come out of a corner straight like an arrow. It doesn't get sideways or a handful under power. On high bite you kinda want equal slip or more towards the rear.

Last edited by Dino_D; 03-24-2014 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:16 PM
  #15524  
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Makes since now! Thanks!



Originally Posted by Dino_D
Okay let me explain. The original slipper is like any other slipper. Its a fixed axle sandwiched with 2 pads. Whether you drill holes or not or change pads, the unit is still locked (meaning the front and rear slip at the same rate). You can't adjust bias. You can't do this on the AE or Xray either.
Just try holding the rear wheels and press the throttle, either all the 4 wheels spin or they slip.

The v4 slipper (2 way) - allows independent axle slip. I can hold the rear wheels and the front will spin under throttle or the other way around, hence its 2 way. Each pad controls each end. Unlike the previous version, where both pad control the entire slip. You still set the slipper the same as the older v3 method. Given the same pads the slip will be the same. The difference is when you change the surface area via holes or pad material, hence you can make one slip more than the other thus simulating a center diff without all that extra weight. However the difference is it will still slip independently transferring power to the pad with the most friction first. A center diff will not slip and allow the transfer of power, but its gonna be harder on your drive train (center axles) without some transmission slip.


That is correct. Either change pads for a greater bias, or drill holes for a slight bias change. You will find that when running on low to med bite tracks, having the rear slip a bit more than the front will allow you to come out of a corner straight like an arrow. It doesn't get sideways or a handful under power. On high bite you kinda want equal slip or more towards the rear.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:54 PM
  #15525  
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Originally Posted by av4625
Well the 210 has 30deg as standard and the 410 does not look to have near as much caster as the 210 so my guess is 19deg overall!
Thanks, yes I agree
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