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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-21-2014, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
Do you have the new UJ's and plastic diff gears? If not start with that. Its also possible you're under geared. Try something like a 20-21t pinion and check temps after a couple minutes. I assume you're also running very little to no timing, and use boost to get the top end you need. You should also have vents in your body. If there isn't and pre made, cutting out about 1/4" of the bottom of the wind shield and most of the back to get some air flow. All this should help a lot.
I dont, ill look into them. Gearing is right, other 410 local was running a 20t on his 5.5 at 178. I have 0 timing and boost, i have my vent holes cut out.

Not seeing plastic diff gears anywhere, all i see is the machined diff ring gear.

Originally Posted by jmackani
A 17 on a 5.5 motor probably is not too low. I am running a 20 on 6.5 without timing or boost. It depends on the track size. I have a feeling that the havoc pro is the problem. I think it is fine for a 2wd, but not up to the task for 4wd. Also 160ish is not too hot.
Are you familar with the havoc pro? Its a 120a short course esc, how would it not be up to the task? A short course truck uses more motor and is heavier. Im not saying its not the problem, i just dont really see how it could be given its designed for higher amp draw with a heavier car.

Last edited by JoshC90; 01-21-2014 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshC90
I dont, ill look into them. Gearing is right, other 410 local was running a 20t on his 5.5 at 178. I have 0 timing and boost, i have my vent holes cut out.

Not seeing plastic diff gears anywhere, all i see is the machined diff ring gear.



Are you familar with the havoc pro? Its a 120a short course esc, how would it not be up to the task? A short course truck uses more motor and is heavier. Im not saying its not the problem, i just dont really see how it could be given its designed for higher amp draw with a heavier car.
Yes, I noticed it was designed for the sct and that is what I normally see them in. The additional drive train components on the 4wd is harder on the esc's. Like I said, I do not think 160 though is any reason to believe you have a problem.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
I heard 7g per diff, not sure on the universals. I never ran the old stuff with the same motor set up but in the past I've ran other 410's and they've never had the same amount of rip, and I'm only running a 8.5 with almost no esc voodoo running around 100* and it was a missile, its at least a half ounce reduction in rotating mass which is a lot.
I measured last night. It only 3 grams per diff. Metals gears are 5 grams, plastic gears are 2 grams.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshC90
Not seeing plastic diff gears anywhere, all i see is the machined diff ring gear.
TD310290

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310290
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Yes, I noticed it was designed for the sct and that is what I normally see them in. The additional drive train components on the 4wd is harder on the esc's. Like I said, I do not think 160 though is any reason to believe you have a problem.
Okay well ima order up the plastic gears, ide like to turn the timing up a bit for more top end. What esc would you recommend for 4wd buggy? I didnt think there was any addition drive train components between a sc4x4 and a 4wd bug.


I have the dJoints in my bug, are the ULs better? Any reason why, also what oils are you running front and back? Same as metal gears or did you bump up

Last edited by JoshC90; 01-22-2014 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
I measured last night. It only 3 grams per diff. Metals gears are 5 grams, plastic gears are 2 grams.
Good to know. Did you happen to check cvd vs UJ as well? I heard today Spec R now has a line of parts for the dex410 and it all looks reasonably well priced. They also make d-joints for the front to eliminate chatter like we see at near full lock with the normal cvds.

I'm using a toro ts120 now and love it, very smooth and runs cool. I got it locally at Great Hobbies but it can also be had on there online store.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
Good to know. Did you happen to check cvd vs UJ as well? I heard today Spec R now has a line of parts for the dex410 and it all looks reasonably well priced. They also make d-joints for the front to eliminate chatter like we see at near full lock with the normal cvds.

I'm using a toro ts120 now and love it, very smooth and runs cool. I got it locally at Great Hobbies but it can also be had on there online store.
I have tried specR double joint but the pin was gone away during race. Every part was stay there but only pin was poped out.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:29 AM
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Hey guys, leaving Durango and my DEX410's gotta go! http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-tire-lot.html If you know anyone looking! Also will sell tire lot separate.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshC90
Okay well ima order up the plastic gears, ide like to turn the timing up a bit for more top end. What esc would you recommend for 4wd buggy? I didnt think there was any addition drive train components between a sc4x4 and a 4wd bug.


I have the dJoints in my bug, are the ULs better? Any reason why, also what oils are you running front and back? Same as metal gears or did you bump up
The ULs will wear better. I did not weigh those compared to the Djoints, but I am fairly confident the D-joints will be heavier. Weight is not always negative though in these overpowered vehicles. If you can't put the power down without wheel spin, then added weight may actually help in taming down some of that power.

Most of the havoc pro use cases I have seen are in 2wd sct and not the 4wd monsters. Tekin RX8's and hobbywings seem to be preference in 4wd sct. In 4wd mod buggy, tekin rsx, rs pro, hobbywing v3.1 or orions R10, and some are jamming full Tekin rx8's in the that space.
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:41 PM
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I have the DEX410V3 and want to make it as reliable as I can. Are the machined cut diff rings necessary for reliability, and how many are needed? Also the plastic gears, are they more reliable, and I assume quieter? Which uj shafts would you recommend to buy first, the mids, or front and rear?
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by platgof
I have the DEX410V3 and want to make it as reliable as I can. Are the machined cut diff rings necessary for reliability, and how many are needed? Also the plastic gears, are they more reliable, and I assume quieter? Which uj shafts would you recommend to buy first, the mids, or front and rear?
Machine cut are a nice to have but not mandatory. I would buy the mids first as they seem to wear more. Then would do the fronts and to be honest I see no reason for them in the rear. The rear does not take the same amount of varying directional forces as you have upfront with the steering.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Machine cut are a nice to have but not mandatory. I would buy the mids first as they seem to wear more. Then would do the fronts and to be honest I see no reason for them in the rear. The rear does not take the same amount of varying directional forces as you have upfront with the steering.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:23 PM
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If anyone is interested in a set of small bore shocks I have a complete set (will all new parts) ready to go minus the orange orings and the shock springs. PM me if interested.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:46 PM
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Got my first racing action with my 410 this last weekend. Didn't turn out so well, almost 100% my own fault. Broke two arms (1 Friday and 1 Saturday) and snapped one of the front hinge pins. Both of them were from walls that didn't want to move. Sorry Flame, this car has never been driven by anyone with my level of skill (or lack thereof). Sweet machine though.
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:18 PM
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Raced my 410V4 Friday night with the same electronics I ran in my V3. First of all I went with u joints on axels and drive line. It ran about 25 degrees cooler with the drivetrain being that free over the D-joints and cvd's. I ran a completely different set up than I normally do and the track was loose so the buggy was not really connected to the track like I prefer. That being said my lap times were good for the conditions. I had no crashes in the heats or main and ended up second for the night. I'm going to go back to my tried and true set up and get it back out later this week. The buggy is so quiet with the nylon diff gears and u-joints it took some getting used to.
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