22LikesTeam Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
01-21-2014, 06:16 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Do you have the new UJ's and plastic diff gears? If not start with that. Its also possible you're under geared. Try something like a 20-21t pinion and check temps after a couple minutes. I assume you're also running very little to no timing, and use boost to get the top end you need. You should also have vents in your body. If there isn't and pre made, cutting out about 1/4" of the bottom of the wind shield and most of the back to get some air flow. All this should help a lot.
Not seeing plastic diff gears anywhere, all i see is the machined diff ring gear.
Are you familar with the havoc pro? Its a 120a short course esc, how would it not be up to the task? A short course truck uses more motor and is heavier. Im not saying its not the problem, i just dont really see how it could be given its designed for higher amp draw with a heavier car.
Last edited by JoshC90; 01-21-2014 at 06:51 PM.
01-22-2014, 08:04 PM
I dont, ill look into them. Gearing is right, other 410 local was running a 20t on his 5.5 at 178. I have 0 timing and boost, i have my vent holes cut out.
Not seeing plastic diff gears anywhere, all i see is the machined diff ring gear.
Are you familar with the havoc pro? Its a 120a short course esc, how would it not be up to the task? A short course truck uses more motor and is heavier. Im not saying its not the problem, i just dont really see how it could be given its designed for higher amp draw with a heavier car.
Not seeing plastic diff gears anywhere, all i see is the machined diff ring gear.
Are you familar with the havoc pro? Its a 120a short course esc, how would it not be up to the task? A short course truck uses more motor and is heavier. Im not saying its not the problem, i just dont really see how it could be given its designed for higher amp draw with a heavier car.
01-22-2014, 08:06 PM
I heard 7g per diff, not sure on the universals. I never ran the old stuff with the same motor set up but in the past I've ran other 410's and they've never had the same amount of rip, and I'm only running a 8.5 with almost no esc voodoo running around 100* and it was a missile, its at least a half ounce reduction in rotating mass which is a lot.
01-22-2014, 08:09 PM
01-22-2014, 09:21 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
I have the dJoints in my bug, are the ULs better? Any reason why, also what oils are you running front and back? Same as metal gears or did you bump up
Last edited by JoshC90; 01-22-2014 at 09:44 PM.
01-22-2014, 09:24 PM
I'm using a toro ts120 now and love it, very smooth and runs cool. I got it locally at Great Hobbies but it can also be had on there online store.
01-22-2014, 10:08 PM
Tech Adept
Good to know. Did you happen to check cvd vs UJ as well? I heard today Spec R now has a line of parts for the dex410 and it all looks reasonably well priced. They also make d-joints for the front to eliminate chatter like we see at near full lock with the normal cvds.
I'm using a toro ts120 now and love it, very smooth and runs cool. I got it locally at Great Hobbies but it can also be had on there online store.
I'm using a toro ts120 now and love it, very smooth and runs cool. I got it locally at Great Hobbies but it can also be had on there online store.
01-23-2014, 08:29 AM
Hey guys, leaving Durango and my DEX410's gotta go! http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-tire-lot.html If you know anyone looking! Also will sell tire lot separate.
01-23-2014, 11:34 AM
Okay well ima order up the plastic gears, ide like to turn the timing up a bit for more top end. What esc would you recommend for 4wd buggy? I didnt think there was any addition drive train components between a sc4x4 and a 4wd bug.
I have the dJoints in my bug, are the ULs better? Any reason why, also what oils are you running front and back? Same as metal gears or did you bump up
I have the dJoints in my bug, are the ULs better? Any reason why, also what oils are you running front and back? Same as metal gears or did you bump up
Most of the havoc pro use cases I have seen are in 2wd sct and not the 4wd monsters. Tekin RX8's and hobbywings seem to be preference in 4wd sct. In 4wd mod buggy, tekin rsx, rs pro, hobbywing v3.1 or orions R10, and some are jamming full Tekin rx8's in the that space.
01-24-2014, 03:41 PM
I have the DEX410V3 and want to make it as reliable as I can. Are the machined cut diff rings necessary for reliability, and how many are needed? Also the plastic gears, are they more reliable, and I assume quieter? Which uj shafts would you recommend to buy first, the mids, or front and rear?
01-24-2014, 04:40 PM
I have the DEX410V3 and want to make it as reliable as I can. Are the machined cut diff rings necessary for reliability, and how many are needed? Also the plastic gears, are they more reliable, and I assume quieter? Which uj shafts would you recommend to buy first, the mids, or front and rear?
01-24-2014, 04:44 PM
Machine cut are a nice to have but not mandatory. I would buy the mids first as they seem to wear more. Then would do the fronts and to be honest I see no reason for them in the rear. The rear does not take the same amount of varying directional forces as you have upfront with the steering.
01-26-2014, 07:23 PM
If anyone is interested in a set of small bore shocks I have a complete set (will all new parts) ready to go minus the orange orings and the shock springs. PM me if interested.
01-26-2014, 07:46 PM
Got my first racing action with my 410 this last weekend. Didn't turn out so well, almost 100% my own fault. Broke two arms (1 Friday and 1 Saturday) and snapped one of the front hinge pins. Both of them were from walls that didn't want to move. Sorry Flame, this car has never been driven by anyone with my level of skill (or lack thereof). Sweet machine though.
01-26-2014, 08:18 PM
Raced my 410V4 Friday night with the same electronics I ran in my V3. First of all I went with u joints on axels and drive line. It ran about 25 degrees cooler with the drivetrain being that free over the D-joints and cvd's. I ran a completely different set up than I normally do and the track was loose so the buggy was not really connected to the track like I prefer. That being said my lap times were good for the conditions. I had no crashes in the heats or main and ended up second for the night. I'm going to go back to my tried and true set up and get it back out later this week. The buggy is so quiet with the nylon diff gears and u-joints it took some getting used to.
