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Old 01-29-2009, 06:28 PM   #46
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thanks for the info.
how do i tell if i already have the ti ball studs. there are a couple on it right now that have surface rust so i know those are not ti. but some others dont.
is there an easy was to tell if they are ti
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:20 PM   #47
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MOST titanium ballstuds will have a hex head in the middle of the ball. If you can lay them out on a table and take some pics of them I could see if they are titanium or not.
Alot of it is the hex at the bottom of the ball before the threads that will let you know or if it has a HEX in the actually ball itself.
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Old 01-30-2009, 01:46 PM   #48
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You really only NEED titanium in the rear shock tower and the front bulkhead. If you run verticel ball studs in the rear hubs (CR style) then I would recommend titanium here as well. .38 for the tower and front bulkhead. .25 for the rear hubs unless you run a lot of washers under the verticle ball stud were you might need to go to the .38 but with stock settings the .38 will go through the hub and hit the bearing.

The CR rear end is totally different then the original or the BK. Going from original to CR is pretty cheap though as you are out rear pivot block, arms, and hubs.
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Old 01-30-2009, 02:03 PM   #49
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well i looked last night and they are not titanium.

is that all the items i need to convert over to cr style.
would i be better off that way or just stick with the stock setup.
is there an advantage.

thanks for all the replies.
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Old 01-30-2009, 02:56 PM   #50
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that is all you would need to convert the rear. There were other small changes like the extra holes in the rear shock tower, rack steering and the updated front tower and VLA front arms. Stick with the car you have though. The CR rear is good but drive the car the way you have it and get used to it that way. The original XXX is a great platform. I would save your money for tires or track time.
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Old 01-30-2009, 02:57 PM   #51
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the main reason i was asking and i forgot to put in, is i do not have any extra parts at all for it. i know i will need them so its either invest in the old stuff or the new.
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Old 01-30-2009, 04:06 PM   #52
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I think that is all. I am pretty sure the bones are the same length on the XXX and the CR but someone else will have to confirm them for me. The BK2 rear arms will work on your car as well. They just have the VLA holes but other then that they are the same as what you are running and those should still be available.
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Old 01-30-2009, 04:16 PM   #53
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am i the only one that noticed. you havre a servo saver on the servo itself the xxx has a servo saver built into the steering. i would take that off and just run a servo horn
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:16 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamcarpetfire View Post
am i the only one that noticed. you havre a servo saver on the servo itself the xxx has a servo saver built into the steering. i would take that off and just run a servo horn
no i think it was mentioned before.
i have it on the list of things to buy.
but thank you for noticing
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Old 02-03-2009, 04:36 PM   #55
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well i got the shock spacers fixed, new mg servo, fixed the servo saver part, replaced all the necc screws, put some pink tapers on the rear.

i think i know why the person before me added the servo saver, the pins in the rack were rusted in there. the steering moves alot better now.

i just went to the lhs and got the factory screws. they were cheap enough.
actually alot cheaper than the hardware store.

before i sink anymore money into it i want to make sure i like the class.
thanks again for all the help
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:49 AM   #56
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well got to run it for the first time.
didnt take long before i realized that i am not a buggy person.
it was running good and handles good but its not my cup of tea.
gonna look to try and trade it for a t4 or a xxx-t cr.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:27 PM   #57
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Give it a shot. Buggy driving will make you a better driver. They are not as stable and require a little more throttle control and finess. They are a lot of fun though.
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