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Old 01-09-2009, 03:34 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by everyjuangohome View Post
Hakko for sure. Flux Flux Flux Flux you will be mad that you never used it before.
i have to admit, out of all of these years of soldering, i never questioned the proper way of soldering. i have always soldered with the minimum effort as possible. im getting bit in the ass now.

What is the proper way to use flux?
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Old 01-09-2009, 03:59 PM   #32
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i have to admit, out of all of these years of soldering, i never questioned the proper way of soldering. i have always soldered with the minimum effort as possible. im getting bit in the ass now.

What is the proper way to use flux?
Let's say you want to tin some wire. Just apply a small amount to the end of the wire. Touch the iron tip to the solder roll then touch the tip to the wire with the flux it will sizzle and the solder will ooooze sooooo good into the wires. Hold tip on wire till flux makes a slight bubble this cleans the joint. Same method for deans plugs just apply a small dab onto the dean plug tin the plug with a small puddle tin the wire heat the puddle from the underside of the tab as soon as it melts touch the wire down let them join and let them cool off alone don't blow in it!!!
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Old 01-09-2009, 04:19 PM   #33
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I use a Hakko 936 at home but with the advent of brushless motors and lipo's, about the only thing I need to solder at the track are motors to ESC wires and that isn't ever often it seems......yes LIPO's and brushless motors have made me very lazy nowadays. So the hakko stays at home and I bought a really really nice butane powered iron that easily handles trackside dutys and takes up far less space in my box.....the almighty iroda solderpro 120
http://www.pro-iroda.com/Pro120K.htm
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:38 PM   #34
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hey fellas,

i bought the hakko 936 with skins for $69 at hobby people. can u believe that!!! and it's the 908 iron!!! what a deal. go hobby people!!!
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:20 PM   #35
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If anyone is looking for a soldering iron to solder heavy gauge wire, heavy large connectors, etc....this iron is the shizzle!

Ungar/Weller 1140A Soldering Iron (make sure it is the model 1140A as this one has the integrated tip on the heating element).

http://www.alpineglass.com/shop/detail/829



I also use this solder station. You can adjust the thermostat so the iron is not at its full heat when doing lighter work. It is really nice. The station has a thick long power cord to plug into an outlet. Then the station has its own outlet to plug in your soldering iron. It's nice not dealing with extension cords or having the iron plugged in to an outlet with the wire stretched across the counter/table.

Inland Solder Station

http://www.alpineglass.com/shop/detail/1065



Finally anyone soldering should not be without this tip cleaner. I was amazed the first time I used it!

Hakko Tip Cleaner

http://www.alpineglass.com/shop/detail/783

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Old 01-09-2009, 09:32 PM   #36
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Harbor Freight has these cheeeep.

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where can i get one of those?
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:50 PM   #37
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thanks all for all the support to getting my soldering up to par!!! I also built me a work bench today too!!! 7ft long 30in wide 33in high!!! BEAUTIFUL!!!!
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:18 PM   #38
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Just make sure you use a good NON-corrosive (rosin based) flux meant for electrical soldering and not the acidic types meant for soldering copper pipes.

A good HOT iron is an absolute must if you plan on making your own batteries. The trick is making the solder joint in as little time as possible as a good iron (such as the Hakko 936) can damage a cell if left in contact with the battery for an extended period of time. This is where the flux comes in handy.
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Old 01-12-2009, 04:05 PM   #39
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Does everyone use 60/40 rosin core solder? If you use this solder, is there a need to use additional flux?
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Old 01-12-2009, 04:12 PM   #40
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Does everyone use 60/40 rosin core solder? If you use this solder, is there a need to use additional flux?
I have been told that even though solder has flux in it, you should apply flux regardless. I've found that it does help make a quicker/cleaner joint.
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:28 PM   #41
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Does everyone use 60/40 rosin core solder? If you use this solder, is there a need to use additional flux?
As long as you tin both things you're joining, the 60/40 from Radio Shack is good enough. Just scuff the ends of the battery and clean it with motor spray, and use a hot iron. A good solder joint should be shiny when done correctly.
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:40 PM   #42
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i always use the deans solder.. it is by far my favorite
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:42 PM   #43
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i always use the deans solder.. it is by far my favorite
link?
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