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Old 12-18-2008, 08:37 PM   #16
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Just thinking: A gallon of fuel (Nitro) equals approx. 3785 cc's . A nitro buggy holds of 125 cc's of fuel. This equals 30 tanks of fuel in the buggy. Runtime per tank is 7 min. 7 x 30 is 210 minutes of run time (3.5 hours) cost of fuel $35.00 a gallon.

Electric buggy: 5s4000mah pack average cost $200.00. Runtime per charge lets say 15 minutes. To run 3.5 hours you need to charge 14 times. To equal the cost you need to buy 6 gallons of fuel to equal the battery cost. (6x35=$195.00) 6 gallons of fuel you can run 21 hours. To run an electric buggy as described above you need to charge 84 times.

The question then comes down to how many charges less or more then 84 can a lipo pack take with full performance...this is the potetnial difference. I woul d say nitro is still cheaper.....your thoughts,
If you have not done either you have no idea what it will cost, How you do it is also a factor. Everyone likes something different. In my eyes for a .21 motor i am not gonna spend anything less then 300-350, the pipe.... do i wann a go cheap or do i want a nice piece.... will some hack tbone my car and dent my pipe ?

How do i wanna set-up my electric...... do i want mechanical brakes ? what servos am i gonna run ? $$ etc.


It's all different. if you wanna be on a tight budget you can find deals and such etc.

I think if your worried about cost 1/8th scale competition is not for you !
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Old 12-18-2008, 08:54 PM   #17
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I've crunched the numbers a few times and for me electric always works out to be cheaper by several hundreds of dollars comparing the data over a 9mo race season. I'm expecting to save about $500 by eliminating the nitro classes next season and only running 1/10th and 1/8th electric classes.
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Old 12-18-2008, 09:42 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Thopper View Post
Also since I am new to electric how many hours will a brushless motor run efficiently. A nitro motor will easily run 6 plus gallons.
How many glow plugs do you feed it in 6 gallons
how many receiver pack charges in 6 gallons
how much time spent scrubbing nitro sludge in 6 gallons.
how many sets of clutch shoes in 6 gallons
how much time and fuel is wasted tuning every time the air temp shifts 4-5 deg. during that 6 gallons

how long does it take you to drive to the hobby store each time you need more fuel

how much gas does your car take to get to and from said hobby storeto get fuel

how much will the fines cost you if you try running a nitro at 3 AM.I run my electrics at 3 am all the time.

seems you left a few variables out of the equation.

also 5000mah li-po can be bought for 30.00 now.
a brushless motor will run for many hours before needing any sort of maintenance

i have done both. Nitro is way more expensive.Plus the PIA factor makes it a drag.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:30 PM   #19
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I've tried the Nitro thing....too much to mess with. I'd rather go racing electric with 20 people on a Saturday night, then have to go racing with 100 nitro people and take up an entire day.

I just can't take the fumes from nitro inside anymore.....
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:56 PM   #20
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I run my electrics at 3 am all the time.
Wha choo want..... a cookie ?
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:56 PM   #21
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RB Five..this was "just fod for thought" Not bashing or hating. I have been racing for 20 plus years..8th scale for 6...have a nitro and an electric. Buying another 8th this weekend...losit NIB $250.00 for e coversion. I have an 8b nitro and an mbx6 e conversion. I was simply asking a question. Alot of good responses....some not so good! I would say I spend min. 5k per year on racing so I know what is involved except I was thinking about the cost of go power ...thats all.
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:04 PM   #22
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I've raced both Nitro and Electric, and electric is way cheaper, which is why I sold all my nitro stuff.

routine replaceable parts on my nitro buggy include:

fuel
glow plugs $10-20 a weekend
clutch shoes (once a month)
clutch springs (once a month)
clutch bell (usually once a season)
tires (big expense, every 2 weeks)
new piston and sleeve every season if not a whole new mill

Routine replaceable parts on my electric truck include:

maybe a set of rear tires once a month


My brushless motor, esc and lipo will outlast 10 nitro engines!

so yeah, nitro is cheaper
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:15 PM   #23
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I electrics...good thread Thopper
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Thopper View Post
RB Five..this was "just fod for thought" Not bashing or hating. I have been racing for 20 plus years..8th scale for 6...have a nitro and an electric. Buying another 8th this weekend...losit NIB $250.00 for e coversion. I have an 8b nitro and an mbx6 e conversion. I was simply asking a question. Alot of good responses....some not so good! I would say I spend min. 5k per year on racing so I know what is involved except I was thinking about the cost of go power ...thats all.
Here we go again.
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:36 AM   #25
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here is a link to a breakdown TonyScrews did, albeit there are some items on the electric side that can be had cheaper now and are race worthy:

http://www.tony1034.com/ts/EMBX5R/Ni...MBX5R_cost.htm

Quote:
Nitro MBX5R versus Electric MBX5R cost analysis ....



This example uses one case of fuel (4 gallons) since this is about the average life span of a nitro motor for most racers. I used the .21 Ninja as this was a middle of the road priced .21 you would see in most racer's rides. I used a new glow plug for each gallon plus the original for break-in. I used a new set of clutch shoes & springs every gallon and replaced the air filter every 1/2 gallon. Most nitro racers have a decent charger for their starter box, Rx and Tx batteries so I used the Triton 2. The Brushless/LiPo car would need a charger & balancer so I used the Hyperion EOS0606i AC/DC Balance Charger. It will also charge the Tx batteries in your radio. For the servos I used your typical high-end servo found in 99% of most 1/8th scale racer's rides.



Nitro Electric



MBX5R $580 $580

Ninja .21 engine $285 N/A

Dynamite 053 pipe & header $50 N/A

Nitro Fuel - four gallons $100 N/A

Glow Plugs (4) $30 N/A

Clutch shoes/springs (3) $75 N/A

Starter Box - Mugen B0230 $95 N/A

Starter Box Batteries $35 N/A

Throttle/Brake Servo $110 N/A

Steering Servo $110 $110

Glow Ignitor $25 N/A

Air Filters (8) $20 N/A

Rx Battery - 2500mah AA $35 N/A

Charger $125 $150

Neu 1512 1.5D Brushless Motor N/A $220

MaxAmps 6000mah 4S LiPo N/A $220

Castle Creations MambaMax ESC N/A $115

Novak Cooling Fan (2) N/A $25

RC Product Designs conversion N/A $150

Kyosho diff w/ plastic spur N/A $53

Century Pinion Gear N/A $8

Castle Creations BEC N/A $20

RC10GT2 Radio Box N/A $4



TOTAL $1,675 $1,655



Nitro Kit Parts Not Used...I used @ 50% of retail as a reasonable sale price that you could get if you sold the unused parts on the internet. I've parted out a few Mugen kits on EBay so I know the prices are more than fair.



Fuel Tank N/A -$15

Nitro Motor Mount N/A -$20

Clutch & Flywheel Assembly N/A -$40

46T Stock Steel Spur Gear N/A -$20

Brake pads,rotors,cams,etc N/A -$20

Air Filter N/A -$5

Radio Box N/A -$5

Brake & Throttle Linkages N/A -$5



Sub-Total N/A -$130



TOTAL $1,675 $1,525



So if you were to build both cars brand new from scratch, the Brushless/LiPo MBX5R would cost you $150 less. But the brushless motor and LiPo batteries would last way beyond the 4 gallons of nitro fuel you would burn. Most likely you would need a new mill for your nitro car as well. Most racers will buy a new engine before they buy a new piston, sleeve, rod, crank or bearings. Although some may argue that they would rebuild their motor, or perhaps buy a cheaper mill like one of the Go motors. But like I said in my opening statement, odds are you will see more $300, $400 and $500+ motors in most1/8th scale racer's rides. I also used an inexpensive, but very good qualtity and performing pipe & header combo on the motor. Again, most racers will have a $120+ pipe & header on their race motors.



As for peformance, there isn't a nitro motor made that can compete with this brushless/LiPo combo in speed, torque and accelration. The brushless car will be much faster in top speed and the acceleration from dead stop to top speed is like comparing mom's mini-van to a Z06 Corvette….LOL As for track performance the nitro car does have a clutch and Front/Rear brake bias to its advantage. I haven’t ran it yet myself to compare lap times but I know several guys running these conversions are taking TQ and 1st place in the A-Main against nitro buggies.



Hope you enjoy this comparison



Best regards,
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:38 AM   #26
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Here we go again.
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:04 AM   #27
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I've tried the Nitro thing....too much to mess with. I'd rather go racing electric with 20 people on a Saturday night, then have to go racing with 100 nitro people and take up an entire day.

I just can't take the fumes from nitro inside anymore.....
yep , i will take an oatmeal raisin , please.OOPs hit the quote button in the wrong post!!!must be having a relapse from huffing nitro fumes those years I ran nitro....
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:22 AM   #28
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Default Nitro V Electric

Cain -Tony screws Numbers are way OFF..
I have run both . Nitro is way more money and time and time is money
Electric is way cheaper and less haszadous to ones health
You can buy a Good lipo for less than $75 now adays you can expect 800+ runs with no decrease in power a Good brushless motor will run $75 tops
a ESC will be $125.That right there kills the nitro cost without fuel and glows. 2 cans fuel and 4 glows you just bought yourself a Nice charger..


Electric is about 60% less in a year over Nitro
I would rather go to my local track spend 3 hours run 3 heats and a main and go home and make some money as to a all day event and a nitro track. 6+ hours


There is no comparison nitro v electric electric beats nitro in cost hands down

Just run what you like and have fun. My son and I run 4 different vehicles That is Big bucks in any race electric or nitro but a 5 grand difference is alot.. Peace TnT
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:41 AM   #29
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I'm waiting for the EPA to discover Nitro vehicles one day
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:50 AM   #30
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Most of you missed the point, The original poster is refering to an electric 1/8th buggy -VS- a nitro 1/8th buggy.

Up front they are the same price, but in the long run electric is cheaper.
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