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Old 12-10-2003, 10:50 PM   #121
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tires are 90% of it,on the trucks most people are using either green,silver or blues springs. but if you have the cash definitely buy the set.


advice i got from Matt Francis a few years ago when i still drove losi. when you are putting springs on your car try to keep the front and rear springs 2-3 "rates" difference at the most, between them. in other words,if you have greens on the back,you dont want golds or stiffer on the front. if you put too stiff of a spring on one end and too soft on the other the end with the too stiff spring will not want to transfer weight and "dump" the opposite end of the car with the soft spring.
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Old 12-10-2003, 11:46 PM   #122
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Thanks guys...
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Old 12-14-2003, 10:17 PM   #123
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Hey guys,

did some racing this past friday and had a very good driver there who whipped up on me pretty good with his losi, though he really like the T4 better. Part of it was a motor issue ( see my other post if you can help ) but my vehicle didn't feel as smooth as his. He was able to steer a lot faster through the tight track than I did.

He recommended that I run a stiffer spring up front ( I went to blues instead of the stock silver ) and raise the ride height of the vehicle. I also adjusted the camber front and rear by removing 1 washer from the ball studs thinking this would let me change direction quicker.

Instead, I felt as if I was pushing hard, but when it would finally turn I would spin out. Handled a lot better last week.

Anyway, can someone give me a good run down on what going to heavier springs versus softer springs and vice versa will do to the handling of the vehicle?

Also, if I go to a softer oil weight in the rear, will that make the car feel more planted?

I basically want to the car to be able to change direction quicker but still feel planted.

Thanks. Please feel free to post about what certain changes will do, I think this may be more useful than just stating setups.
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Old 12-15-2003, 05:38 AM   #124
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Here's wat i did to improve my steering:



put the front shocks in the outermost position

put rear shocks one hole down

adjusted front camber, so that front tires contact 100% during turns

lowered front ride height

raised rear ride height

battery forward



... However, i will probably put back the rear shock to its original position, the loss of forward traction was too much. wasnt able to experiment further, as my front shock tower got damaged.
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Old 12-15-2003, 10:23 AM   #125
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Well I improved my steering dramatically simply by taking a closer look at my end points. I added a few clicks to each side to make sure that when I turn fully, that the servo would hold the wheels firmly at the lock position. That improved things alot.

I also plan on ordering the inline steering....problem is that the manual gives the part no. for the inline blocks, but no part no. for the inline axles which will need to have a pass through hole for the hinge pin. So now I will have to go hunting for the part no. for the proper axles...
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Old 12-15-2003, 10:32 AM   #126
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Well that didn't take too long......thanks to TowerHobbies.

Factory Team in-line axles-(part no. 7459) $7.19

B4/T4 in-line steering blocks-(part no. 9577) $5.29
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Old 12-15-2003, 03:09 PM   #127
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thanks for the info.

I read up on about.com some good info , I may go up in oil weight since I am running on carpet and also look into slightly stiffer springs for the front. Maybe lengthen the camber links too after I test my initial changes.

FYI - I am running with max steering dialed in and it still pushed.
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Old 12-15-2003, 03:24 PM   #128
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Associated trucks should be generally run with 35 wt up front but to save money they just include the 30 in the kit. Stick with the silver up front, 35 wt, 1-A camber with one washer...this got me TQ and 2nd place(driver error over last jump....ouch) at SoCal's SuperCross this year. Truck steered great.
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Old 12-15-2003, 04:30 PM   #129
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Thanks for the info. I may look into that. What surface is the raceway you ran this setup on?
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Old 12-15-2003, 05:48 PM   #130
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Default GEARING!!!!

i race a stock class T4 at a track 100ft x 55ft with a 98 ft long straight away?
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Old 12-15-2003, 06:37 PM   #131
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With tracks varying so dramatically, I don't really think there can be a general set up.

For example: at our track, the silvers up front are way too stiff. Everyone there runs very soft up front and it works great. I run black springs and the kit standard 30wt oil. This improved the front steering and grip greatly over the silver springs.
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Old 12-16-2003, 09:00 AM   #132
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Default Re: GEARING!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by MMR_Slingr
i race a stock class T4 at a track 100ft x 55ft with a 98 ft long straight away?
We need to know what motor you are using....
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Old 12-16-2003, 03:10 PM   #133
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I picked up some 40 weight oil. Hobby shop didn't have any 35 in stock, but he gave me a mostly full bottle for free. I will probably change the oil all around and start there as other racers I spoke to in general run the 40 weight all around.
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Old 12-16-2003, 03:11 PM   #134
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Anyone able to fit a heatsink on the motor?
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Old 12-16-2003, 05:14 PM   #135
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If you need a heatsink on your motor you a geared all wrong....
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