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Old 03-10-2004, 10:22 AM   #226
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One final thing, some good things to pickup for your stock motor:

5 pairs extra brushes
1 bottle of tribo power matrix drops
Good comm stick ( team orion makes a good one )
fiddlestick ( great for measuring your springs, the colors can lie )

You can also buy an brush hood alignment bar but that can get pricey if you get a good one. For now, the stuff listed above should get you going well.
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Old 03-10-2004, 05:42 PM   #227
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Cain thanks for all that input,,,,I didnt buy any motors today but did order Big Jim's book on tuning motors...decided to educate my self before spending more money. Can a person tell by looking at your motor what it is? Turn, Wind, exct....
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Old 03-10-2004, 05:51 PM   #228
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with stock motors you can in general.

I believe most modifieds have a writing on the armature that states the turns and winds.
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Old 03-10-2004, 07:10 PM   #229
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Cain is correct, stock motors must be masaged to get top performance. brush algn tool, comm stick, 4.5mm wrench for hood are all necessity. I would first pull out my brushes and run the motor on my dremel tool for quite a while. then align the hood and cut the motor put it back together with my brush & spring choice and run it on a 4 cell pack until it got warm. using comm drops in this process. after several cool down sessions I would clean the motor and re assemble. for the club racer I see no need in all of the fancy tricks. I never use comm drops either to much gum up and inconsistency during racing. As for meeting up the would be great. I live in Roseburg. I will be racing this summer in Eugene. I will be at the Canby track for the nwc race and the elc. regionals. had a mvp once. it was a good motor just seemed picky on the setup. but once it was dialed it was a top notched motor. sounds like your making good decisions don't be afraid to try diff stuff at the track.
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Old 03-10-2004, 07:40 PM   #230
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HeY hEy!!!


i use tribo on brushes to help out performance cause it does work plus it improves life i always use them in mod, but not always stock. i also use bushing oil just before i go out so it dont go to brushes and only one drop on top and one on bottom.
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Old 03-11-2004, 08:32 AM   #231
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Beware of what you ask for I guess! Thanks for all the input everyone. Its all a little over welming right now but I hope that some of this will become second nature with time. I forgot how much there is to setting up a truck to compete. stu541 I hope to see you at the track some time and let me know some of those tracks schedules. Now for the next question. I want to change out the front wheel nuts but my man at the hobby shop said not to because the threads will strip out! Is that because of history working with idiots or do they strip during a race? Maybe I looked dumb while I was asking dumb questions. stu541 do you know Ike Reed?
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Old 03-11-2004, 08:43 AM   #232
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I checked the Trinity web site and they said that the P2K2 Pro is a stock motor that their Trinity Techs install the RC4499 brushes,true the commutator,align the brush hood,break in the motor then test it on their dyno...sounds like a good start and the cost is the same as a reg P2K2.
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Old 03-11-2004, 10:56 AM   #233
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Be wary of trinity. I have owned some of there trued motors and pro tuned ones. Talk about some dogs out of the bag. They weren't centered in the magnetic field, Comms were out of round, etc.

If you do go with a p2k2 pro, just make sure you true the comm yourself before breaking in. You may be suprised by how untrue it is. I do this with all my motors, and the best so far has been Reedy motors. I bought a regular motor from them, not a pro version and the comm didn't need to be trued at all. really impressed.
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Old 03-11-2004, 08:04 PM   #234
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Well then, I will wait for big jim's motor tuning book then tune the Axion I have first and if it doesn't seem to work good enough then figure out witch motor to buy...maybe several! Thanks for all the input.
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Old 03-11-2004, 11:04 PM   #235
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BrownDawg,
Whats up, I won the stock truck winter points series at A-main raceway.
I think tires and setup are more important on that track for stock than a fast motor.... but I ran an Orion core motor with 12% silver content brushes and also kept the comm cut about every 4-5 runs. Also keep in mind that track is pretty tight compared to most tracks, so you need to adjust the setup accordingly. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-12-2004, 07:37 AM   #236
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I would agree with the statement about setup being more important. If you are spinning your wheels all the power in the world doesn't change that fact.

Going to do some more running today, hopefully get my Quad Mag Tuned up to the track today so i will let you know what I find for gearing. Seemed like a 20 tooth pinion was the hot setup, but I believe my comm drops were junk and were causing my motor to cook.

If any of you are thinking of getting the lightened diffs, go for it! Really nice! I get great punch out of the corners with them.
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Old 03-12-2004, 08:18 AM   #237
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Again thanks for the input. I will agree on the set up being the most important but I also need the motor to be cranking as well. I don't feel that I have the low end punch coming out of the corners to get set for the jumps and maybe its traction. I can't tell from the drivers stand maybe (probably) I just need more practice driving smooth. I do have new rear tires and fronts and made some adjustments to the shock position and firmer foams and changed out all my connections. Looking forward to tonights race. I hope to see you there Tall Can! Maybe we can compare set ups. Then I can see how far off I am. I don't even want to start on my radio adjustments...I have the M8 radio and could probably make some adjustments there for better throttle control but want to get more time on the track first.
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:22 AM   #238
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HeY hEY!!!


what kind of tires do you have on now and what type of inserts did you put in???
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Old 03-12-2004, 10:02 AM   #239
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I also run red tapers in front for stock to get a little better steering..... like I said before that track is tight and part of changing your setup means gearing down a tooth or two, we always run the Orion core motors geared pretty low anyways, even outdoors. Comm drops are not necessary to be fast in stock, I think they are kind of a gimmick to help promote premature motor wear, all you need to do is keep the comm and brushes fresh...I would also recommend going back to 30 wt in the rear (when its really cold run 25) and sticking with the 35-40 in the front. Good luck, see ya there NEXT fri. 3/19.
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:38 AM   #240
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The tires that I raced last friday night are red tapers in back and half blades in front and the foams were grey/white grey inner with white outters. I seemed to have much better traction especially in the front. Still seemed like I was missing some zip from the motor. I geared my pinion down to 18. My shocks need to be stiffer so I'm going to look for new springs and change out the dampening discs. I will also replace the shock shafts they seem to leak alot. I need someone that knows motors and how to tune them to ask all the right questions to. I talked to a guy at the track and before the main he was scrubbing his tires and he said that he holds them under the fluid to check for leaks! Was I suppose to seal the tires to the rims, cause I only tacked them with the glue, they for sure leak. Sounds like Amain is going to change the off road track into an Dirt Oval when they start the Canby track. Then we can run Oval on Friday night and Canby on Saturday.
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