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Old 12-08-2008, 09:16 AM   #1
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Default Optimal RC10T4 Setup

Hello All. As I mentioned in a previous post, I just purchased a Associated T4. Of course, being a newbie, I need to really practice and learn. However, since the sport is so expensive, I want to get an idea of what upgrades I should start saving my money for and what kind of deals I should be looking for. What upgrades would you suggest for the following criteria:

1. A guy who is does not plan on getting into serious racing.
2. Most time will be spent out around the neighborhood not in a track or facility.
3. Like to open up the motor in a large asphalt parking lot while enjoying some off-roading in a football field and playground.
4. Doesn't have alot of time for vehicle maintenance.
5. Wants to pick up some speed - possible 40-50 mph.
6. Doesn't want to change the battery for about 40 minutes.

Any suggestions/setups would be appreciated.
Thanks! Dorion
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:21 PM   #2
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WHat upgrades you get will depend on what equipment you have now.

What motor, speed control and batteries are you currently using?

Going fast with little maintenance means brushless. Long run times means going Lipo, something 5000mAh or higher.
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:35 PM   #3
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CraigV,

Thanks for the reply. Right now I'm purchased an RC10T4 RS already assembled. I picked up the following description from Tower Hobbies website:

This is the electric powered, radio controlled ready to run
Team Associated RC10T4 RS (Race Spec) off-road racing truck.

FEATURES: Chassis: Molded composite, low center of gravity
Transmission: 2.6:1 laydown Stealth type, high-torque capacity
Bearings: Full set
Shocks: Oil-filled blue anodized aluminum (silver springs on front
and green springs on the rear)
Radio: Team Associated XP2 2-channel AM with metal gear servo,
transmitter has charge jack, can use Wall Charger (ASCM9833) if
rechargeable batteries are used (charger and batteries are not
included)
Speed Control: LRP Ai digital
Motor: Associated Reedy Radon 17 turn
Dog Bones: Steel dog bones (not CVDs)
Front Tires: Associated racing compound ribbed
Rear Tires: Associated racing compound bow-tie style
Wheels: White (dyeable) dish style 2.2" (56mm) diameter
Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front
suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the
chassis
Camber: Adjustable, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the
tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle
Steering: Angled-bellcrank design to minimize bump steer and maintain
constant steering angles throughout the range of suspension travel
Body: Painted racing truck style with rear wing
Slipper Clutch: High-torque capacity double-sided provides finer
adjustment
Impact-resistant rear motor guard
Adjustable battery position
Built-in servo saver

INCLUDES: One pre-assembled RC10T4 RS with oil-filled shocks, tires, foam
wheels, 87 tooth Kimbrough 48 pitch spur gear, steel turnbuckles,
20 tooth pinion gear, 17 turn motor, electronic speed control,
2-ch pistol grip AM radio w/steering servo, painted body, nylon
tools (for turnbuckles, wheel nuts etc.), hex wrench assortment,
decal sheet,and instructions for the model, speed control and
radio

I also picked up a Prophet AC/DC peak charger and a 3300 rocketpack NiMH rechargable battery pack. Sorry for posting such a long description. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Dorion
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Old 12-08-2008, 01:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorion View Post
1. A guy who is does not plan on getting into serious racing.
I don't think anyone plans on this one...it just happens and you get hooked....
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Old 12-08-2008, 01:24 PM   #5
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Joo should got a Losi speed t or a traxxas vxl rustler/pede !
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Old 12-08-2008, 01:30 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE View Post
Joo should got a Losi speed t or a traxxas vxl rustler/pede !
+1 on Speed-T but I am biased
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Old 12-08-2008, 08:00 PM   #7
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My son and I have factory team T4's. They are a great machine. I have race mine for a season and a half. I bought my son's used from a fellow racer. Our local track shut down so now we just bash around the yard. I am building a homemade track. For what you are doing I would recommend front GT-2 A-arms, Brushless, and Li-po. I know it is an expensive investment but,you wont be sorry. If you can't afford that you already have a great setup to have fun with. Oh yeah I believe that other guy is right about racing you will probably will get addicted. I would be glad to answer any more questions if you have any.
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:51 AM   #8
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Thanks for the advice rc10t4orange! I'll check out the GT-2 Arms. Do you recommend a certian brushless motor? I've checked out some brands, but frankly when I go to their websites, I can't tell the difference between one brushless from another. Also, does lipo give you longer run times or more power or possibly both?

Thanks for your help! One of the reasons I bought this car was because I have two boys. I'm glad to hear you and your son are having fun together.
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:12 PM   #9
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Dorian, to be honest I don't have lipo or brushless but I wish i did. I don't have the budget for it. I have done alot of research and talked to alot of people about it though. From what I understand Novak is an excellent brand and you probably want a sensored style system. Like the GTB/SS combo the lower the motor number the faster it will be. Even Novak's new sport Havoc system looks great. Brushless systems run cooler and more efficient and have more power than brushed. As for lipo they last longer and have more power. Just be sure to have a charger that is lipo compatible and you will also need a lipo balancer. I believe all this info is true. If anyone else has a different opinion let me know. Thanks.
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:34 PM   #10
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Hey mate good car, as far as upgrading goes don't say ill get the cheap version of upgrades instead of paying the extra $35-$70 more for the better upgrade as that's something Ive learned that i end up braking the cheap stuff pretty quick and end up buying the good stuff soon after.
hope this helps.

also with LiPo's id go for a charger with a LiPo balancer built in it and go for a 5000 mAh LiPo and when your charging a LiPo make sure u use a LiPo sack when charging



because if your LiPo blows up with out one it could do some serious damage.


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