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Old 11-03-2008, 09:38 PM   #16
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Well, I tried many different solutions at the track today, even had Horizon on the phone with me for while.

I set my break curve to a near flat line, my TX points or all at 100. The car breaks extremely strong at times, but sometimes it will just cost for a few seconds and then the break will kick in strong. It just is not very predictable. I just wanted more control when I go off jumps on the track. I guess I will just use the drag break, and get used to driving with more of it.

Open to all suggestions, would love to have this thing work well.
thanks for all input.
Which transmitter are you using? Futaba - 3PK

I would suggest setting your endpoints to 125% and recalibrate.
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Old 11-04-2008, 09:44 PM   #17
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Default Hmmmmm!

After putting everything back to the way it was when I first hooked it up, the brakes seem to have worked themselves out. I'm basically back to the stock 4s profile but with the lowest timing and med start power. Works decent now except for major cogging at very low rpms. I can get over that but it would be nice to address that in the new firmware.
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Old 11-04-2008, 11:43 PM   #18
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I'm basically back to the stock 4s profile but with the lowest timing and med start power. Works decent now except for major cogging at very low rpms.
Set the INITIAL START to HIGH
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Old 11-05-2008, 12:38 PM   #19
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Oh, I was confusing start power with punch control. Are y'all going to add a punch control feature since we can't dial back the end points without effecting the calibration or am I just going to have to learn how to control my trigger finger better. I've always used the end point to cut back on the overall power of my brushless setups. Thanks for answering my questions.
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:19 PM   #20
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Ok, so with a M8 I should leave both endpoints at 100% for brake and throttle and then use the trim to tone down breaking?

Thanks for the help
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:45 PM   #21
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Oh, I was confusing start power with punch control. Are y'all going to add a punch control feature since we can't dial back the end points without effecting the calibration or am I just going to have to learn how to control my trigger finger better. I've always used the end point to cut back on the overall power of my brushless setups. Thanks for answering my questions.
There are adjustments - Throttle Limit with range of 10% to 90% and also Brake Throttle Limit to do the same. If you wish to change the punch you can try the initial start, or change the throttle curve.

hope that helps
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:01 PM   #22
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Ok, so with a M8 I should leave both endpoints at 100% for brake and throttle and then use the trim to tone down breaking?

Thanks for the help
I suggest you calibrate the ESC with your end points at 100%. Then, turn the Brake EPA down to where you are happy with it.
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Old 11-05-2008, 04:03 PM   #23
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thanks!!
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:30 PM   #24
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Ok, so with a M8 I should leave both endpoints at 100% for brake and throttle and then use the trim to tone down breaking?

Thanks for the help
This is correct - changing the EP's after calibration will lead to problems
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Old 11-05-2008, 06:00 PM   #25
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This is correct - changing the EP's after calibration will lead to problems
thank you
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:16 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by edfmaniac View Post
Oh, I was confusing start power with punch control. Are y'all going to add a punch control feature since we can't dial back the end points without effecting the calibration or am I just going to have to learn how to control my trigger finger better. I've always used the end point to cut back on the overall power of my brushless setups. Thanks for answering my questions.
You could set the throttle curve like Rocketron mentioned. For at the track adjustments when you can't get connected to a PC, if your transmitter has throttle exponential adjustment that works too. Go with negative exponential on the throttle, you'll still have 100% power at full trigger, but it will smooth out the low end some. Start around -30 and see how you like it.
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