What is the lowest C rating I should look at for a LiPo?
10-30-2008, 10:41 AM
#31
I have never personally tried the nomadio radios but i have heard a lot of good feedback about them. Its a shame that they stopped producing their RC products because apparently they have a big military contract to fulfill.
As far as the lipo, you need to have enough amp draw to see a difference when using a 30C lipo. In my stock J82 with a 30C lipo, i notice a very slight punch increase with it compared to a 25C but then again it is stock. It would def help if you were running a modified motor because it will draw more power from the battery as needed. This is a very debatable topic but i would not recommend anything under a 20C as far as racing is concerned. Just my 2 cents.
As far as the lipo, you need to have enough amp draw to see a difference when using a 30C lipo. In my stock J82 with a 30C lipo, i notice a very slight punch increase with it compared to a 25C but then again it is stock. It would def help if you were running a modified motor because it will draw more power from the battery as needed. This is a very debatable topic but i would not recommend anything under a 20C as far as racing is concerned. Just my 2 cents.
10-30-2008, 12:13 PM
#32
Guys, not wanting to start a war here...
But since you can dial down a motor with many other ways (ESC, transmitter, etc...), wouldn't it be best to have a high enough C rated Battery so it's not limiting your motor (and therefore nor overheating, since a motor that draws more than the Lipo can handle will cause it to overheat)? Thus you can gain the max performance out of your motor? And if with that the motor is still too punchy, you can dial it down with the ESC, your transmitter or even as was suggested buying a milder motor? It still seems to me that this is a better option than buying a low rated Lipo to limit the motor so it is more controlable. I mean, what is the use of running a Novak 3.5T motor in a 2wd buggy on a 10C rated pack so it's controlable, when you should be running a milder motor instead or at least limiting the punch/timing with the ESC/ transmitter?
I do understand the need for high C ratings for high wind motors; to get the most out of them. And that a low turn Mod motor has so much punch that the higher C rating is not needed to deliver more punch than can be handled. But I'd still think this would be good to have for the low turn motors! That low turn motor is going to try drawing lots of current. And if the Lipo is holding it back, the Lipo is going to heat up which isn't good (now wether this will cause a failure is debatable...). It seems to me that for the system, it would be much better having a Lipo capable os easily dishing out the power (high C rating), that stays cool, and limiting the punch with the ESC/ transmiter.
Once again, not trying to start a war here! It just seems counter-intuitive to me to be using the C rating of a Lipo to dial in the behaviour of my buggy! I might be wrong though...
Cheers!
But since you can dial down a motor with many other ways (ESC, transmitter, etc...), wouldn't it be best to have a high enough C rated Battery so it's not limiting your motor (and therefore nor overheating, since a motor that draws more than the Lipo can handle will cause it to overheat)? Thus you can gain the max performance out of your motor? And if with that the motor is still too punchy, you can dial it down with the ESC, your transmitter or even as was suggested buying a milder motor? It still seems to me that this is a better option than buying a low rated Lipo to limit the motor so it is more controlable. I mean, what is the use of running a Novak 3.5T motor in a 2wd buggy on a 10C rated pack so it's controlable, when you should be running a milder motor instead or at least limiting the punch/timing with the ESC/ transmitter?I do understand the need for high C ratings for high wind motors; to get the most out of them. And that a low turn Mod motor has so much punch that the higher C rating is not needed to deliver more punch than can be handled. But I'd still think this would be good to have for the low turn motors! That low turn motor is going to try drawing lots of current. And if the Lipo is holding it back, the Lipo is going to heat up which isn't good (now wether this will cause a failure is debatable...). It seems to me that for the system, it would be much better having a Lipo capable os easily dishing out the power (high C rating), that stays cool, and limiting the punch with the ESC/ transmiter.
Once again, not trying to start a war here! It just seems counter-intuitive to me to be using the C rating of a Lipo to dial in the behaviour of my buggy! I might be wrong though...
Cheers!
Your misunderstanding, It's not about being more controllable.
Here is my best example.
you have 2 cars and one has a really big engine with 500hp then you have a car with a smaller engine with 200 hp. Which one is gonna need the help more ?
A faster motor doesn't need more rip. it has that cause it's a faster motor so when you use the better battery on a slower motor you gain more performance. With the faster motor you don't need that cause it makes more power.
granted if i had 3 30c packs it wouldn't matter cause they would all be top notch.
10-30-2008, 12:24 PM
#33
Yeah but is that 500 hp motor gonnna still make 500 if you put a smaller carb on it. No
And if you put a bigger carb on the 200 hp motor it will help a lil but you'll just end up wasting gas and Not making a difference The mod motor needs the juice to make the power and if the juice isn't there than no power. Just cause its mod doesn't mean its gonna make mod power regaurdless esp with brushless. I have a worn 3200 lipo pack that barely runs my 5700 (runs like a 17.5) but that same 3200 pack runs my buddies 10.5 NO problem.
And if you put a bigger carb on the 200 hp motor it will help a lil but you'll just end up wasting gas and Not making a difference The mod motor needs the juice to make the power and if the juice isn't there than no power. Just cause its mod doesn't mean its gonna make mod power regaurdless esp with brushless. I have a worn 3200 lipo pack that barely runs my 5700 (runs like a 17.5) but that same 3200 pack runs my buddies 10.5 NO problem.
10-30-2008, 01:36 PM
#37
Guys, not wanting to start a war here... But since you can dial down a motor with many other ways (ESC, transmitter, etc...), wouldn't it be best to have a high enough C rated Battery so it's not limiting your motor (and therefore nor overheating, since a motor that draws more than the Lipo can handle will cause it to overheat)? Thus you can gain the max performance out of your motor? And if with that the motor is still too punchy, you can dial it down with the ESC, your transmitter or even as was suggested buying a milder motor? It still seems to me that this is a better option than buying a low rated Lipo to limit the motor so it is more controlable. I mean, what is the use of running a Novak 3.5T motor in a 2wd buggy on a 10C rated pack so it's controlable, when you should be running a milder motor instead or at least limiting the punch/timing with the ESC/ transmitter?
I do understand the need for high C ratings for high wind motors; to get the most out of them. And that a low turn Mod motor has so much punch that the higher C rating is not needed to deliver more punch than can be handled. But I'd still think this would be good to have for the low turn motors! That low turn motor is going to try drawing lots of current. And if the Lipo is holding it back, the Lipo is going to heat up which isn't good (now wether this will cause a failure is debatable...). It seems to me that for the system, it would be much better having a Lipo capable os easily dishing out the power (high C rating), that stays cool, and limiting the punch with the ESC/ transmiter.
Once again, not trying to start a war here! It just seems counter-intuitive to me to be using the C rating of a Lipo to dial in the behaviour of my buggy! I might be wrong though...
Cheers!
But since you can dial down a motor with many other ways (ESC, transmitter, etc...), wouldn't it be best to have a high enough C rated Battery so it's not limiting your motor (and therefore nor overheating, since a motor that draws more than the Lipo can handle will cause it to overheat)? Thus you can gain the max performance out of your motor? And if with that the motor is still too punchy, you can dial it down with the ESC, your transmitter or even as was suggested buying a milder motor? It still seems to me that this is a better option than buying a low rated Lipo to limit the motor so it is more controlable. I mean, what is the use of running a Novak 3.5T motor in a 2wd buggy on a 10C rated pack so it's controlable, when you should be running a milder motor instead or at least limiting the punch/timing with the ESC/ transmitter?I do understand the need for high C ratings for high wind motors; to get the most out of them. And that a low turn Mod motor has so much punch that the higher C rating is not needed to deliver more punch than can be handled. But I'd still think this would be good to have for the low turn motors! That low turn motor is going to try drawing lots of current. And if the Lipo is holding it back, the Lipo is going to heat up which isn't good (now wether this will cause a failure is debatable...). It seems to me that for the system, it would be much better having a Lipo capable os easily dishing out the power (high C rating), that stays cool, and limiting the punch with the ESC/ transmiter.
Once again, not trying to start a war here! It just seems counter-intuitive to me to be using the C rating of a Lipo to dial in the behaviour of my buggy! I might be wrong though...
Cheers!
Yes, you are 100% correct in everything you said. I'll admit, I am baffled at the logic some in this thread are using. There are some fundamental errors in their understanding of batteries and the power flow of RC systems.
To sum it up clearly: A higher C rating will ALWAYS be better in EVERY situation. If there is "too much punch" there are a variety of ways to tone it down.
The ONLY dissadvantage of a higher C rating is higher cost.
10-30-2008, 06:59 PM
#38
Your misunderstanding, It's not about being more controllable.
Here is my best example.
you have 2 cars and one has a really big engine with 500hp then you have a car with a smaller engine with 200 hp. Which one is gonna need the help more ?
A faster motor doesn't need more rip. it has that cause it's a faster motor so when you use the better battery on a slower motor you gain more performance. With the faster motor you don't need that cause it makes more power.
granted if i had 3 30c packs it wouldn't matter cause they would all be top notch.
Here is my best example.
you have 2 cars and one has a really big engine with 500hp then you have a car with a smaller engine with 200 hp. Which one is gonna need the help more ?
A faster motor doesn't need more rip. it has that cause it's a faster motor so when you use the better battery on a slower motor you gain more performance. With the faster motor you don't need that cause it makes more power.
granted if i had 3 30c packs it wouldn't matter cause they would all be top notch.
I do not claim to be a battery expert, or a brushless expert. I always match the constant amp rating of the system to the battery. For example with a mamba max, I see a 100 amp const rating when used in spec (1/10 st's buggies and touring cars) I want a battery that will supply the max of the rated constant. with 20c Lipo's, I want no less than a 5000 mah. Why? Every time you step into the burst rating, its like shorting the battery, which shortens the life.
My T4 on an eagletree has only run a max of 75 amps on a starting spike, would I skimp on C rating if i knew this? No, I still want that safety margin for catestrophic failure (tranny locks up for example) If you can't tame a system down with either the esc/motor or with the transmitter, you either haven't read the manual or have the wrong system for the application. It is my belief, that if you are using the battery for a choke to control the car, you will have troubles down the road. I can understand why people don't want to help here and on other forums, the ones that need the help will not and cannot listen
Sorry for the long post, Just helping with my experience and knowledge. I have run lipo's exclusively for a year and researched them for three years before getting the knowledge, the confidence and the courage to jump in. I have not regretted the experience
10-31-2008, 06:10 AM
#39
Tech Regular
Yes RB, I understand this. You're trying to get the max out of the super stock motor... But from the previous posts, I was getting the message that some of you prefered to run lower rating batteries on your mod motors to reduce the punch! Which I now realise is now what you were trying to say, but rather that you would use your highest rated pack for the stock motor, and then the next best you have for the mod.
Sorry about this confusion, but from some of the original posts I was getting the idea people were suggesting purposefully buying lower C rated packs for their mod motors in order to limit the punch. And this is what I had trouble with...
Cheers!
CODMAN
Sorry about this confusion, but from some of the original posts I was getting the idea people were suggesting purposefully buying lower C rated packs for their mod motors in order to limit the punch. And this is what I had trouble with...
Cheers!
CODMAN
Your misunderstanding, It's not about being more controllable.
Here is my best example.
you have 2 cars and one has a really big engine with 500hp then you have a car with a smaller engine with 200 hp. Which one is gonna need the help more ?
A faster motor doesn't need more rip. it has that cause it's a faster motor so when you use the better battery on a slower motor you gain more performance. With the faster motor you don't need that cause it makes more power.
granted if i had 3 30c packs it wouldn't matter cause they would all be top notch.
Here is my best example.
you have 2 cars and one has a really big engine with 500hp then you have a car with a smaller engine with 200 hp. Which one is gonna need the help more ?
A faster motor doesn't need more rip. it has that cause it's a faster motor so when you use the better battery on a slower motor you gain more performance. With the faster motor you don't need that cause it makes more power.
granted if i had 3 30c packs it wouldn't matter cause they would all be top notch.
10-31-2008, 06:53 AM
#41
Here's my 2 cents. Not an expert on Lipos but I run the Pro-Tec packs in a T4 with a Sphere and a Novak 10.5. I have run 10 minute mains with these and the packs are barely warm afterwards. Amain used to advertise these a 20C pack but dropped the rating to 15C. I asked them about the drop in C rating and here's what they said:
"Thank you for contacting us.
The Protek 2S-4000 packs are still the same exact batteries but we reduced the rating of them when we found in the real world they weren't always holding up to the 20c ratings that the manufacturer claimed they would. We would rather not overate them and disappoint our customers. If the one you purchased before works well in your application then you'lll be happy with them".
They work well for me and I don't feel like I'm lacking in punch as compared to the other trucks in the race.
"Thank you for contacting us.
The Protek 2S-4000 packs are still the same exact batteries but we reduced the rating of them when we found in the real world they weren't always holding up to the 20c ratings that the manufacturer claimed they would. We would rather not overate them and disappoint our customers. If the one you purchased before works well in your application then you'lll be happy with them".
They work well for me and I don't feel like I'm lacking in punch as compared to the other trucks in the race.
10-31-2008, 06:56 AM
#42
Here's my 2 cents. Not an expert on Lipos but I run the Pro-Tec packs in a T4 with a Sphere and a Novak 10.5. I have run 10 minute mains with these and the packs are barely warm afterwards. Amain used to advertise these a 20C pack but dropped the rating to 15C. I asked them about the drop in C rating and here's what they said:
"Thank you for contacting us.
The Protek 2S-4000 packs are still the same exact batteries but we reduced the rating of them when we found in the real world they weren't always holding up to the 20c ratings that the manufacturer claimed they would. We would rather not overate them and disappoint our customers. If the one you purchased before works well in your application then you'lll be happy with them".
They work well for me and I don't feel like I'm lacking in punch as compared to the other trucks in the race.
"Thank you for contacting us.
The Protek 2S-4000 packs are still the same exact batteries but we reduced the rating of them when we found in the real world they weren't always holding up to the 20c ratings that the manufacturer claimed they would. We would rather not overate them and disappoint our customers. If the one you purchased before works well in your application then you'lll be happy with them".
They work well for me and I don't feel like I'm lacking in punch as compared to the other trucks in the race.
Thanks for the information....it just makes it a better bargain in my eyes then...
10-31-2008, 07:26 AM
#43
I run 2s 5000 mah SPC lipos rated at 15c in a Rustler with a MM 5700 set up. The pack gives great performance and handles the requirements of the MM5700 just fine. One of the biggest issues I see in the C rating in lipos is you simply can not trust the advertised rating to be truthful. In a 1/10th scale 2wd truck you really dont need a relly high C rating.
