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Old 09-23-2003, 11:22 AM   #1
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Default Choosing 2wd 1/10 gas trucks for racing

Guys,
Need your help in choosing a gas truck for racing.
I need a durable, good handling, easy to maintain, high performance 1/10 2wd off road gas truck. I've been racing on road 1/10 adn 1/8 , as well as 1/8 off road buggy.......and have been eyeing those cool looking gas trucks. Anybody wants to give me there suggestions on engines, pipes, clutch, and mods to be done ....I sure will appreciate it. thanks in advance.
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Old 09-23-2003, 12:13 PM   #2
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Hi, this is AreCee from the Yokomo board. Consider the Mugen MST-1 with the MT12 engine. I think it's slightly better than the Losi or AE but only because of it's suspension. It will still break (rear axles) and some other parts. The Losi is a bit fragile in the battery box department and the GT seems to be the most durable of the three.

Actually it's a real toss up between all three because each is capable of winning if you're up to it. IMHO

I have a XXX-NT with a few ups like a Trinity rear pivot block, AD pipe & manifold, AD brake clips, Losi alloy top shaft, Rocket city caputered ball ends, Lunsfird Ti turnbuckles and a couple graphite parts. So far this set up has proven itself reliable for weekly racing. Also use longer screws to attach the battery box which prevents stripping upon rear end landings. I'm using a '02 Fantom .12r with a black AE carb restrictor, this gives me plenty of power and lasts about 10 - 12 minutes per tank.
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Old 09-23-2003, 01:12 PM   #3
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All i can say is that i have a duratrax nitro evader ST, and its nice for me, but if your into a "higher standard" of racing go with something else. So far the nitro evader is fast, reliable (it has an engine (.18) designed by duratrax, made by O.S.), and most of all durable, ive gone down hills (not on the wheels unfortunatly) and flipped it many times, mostly landing back on the wheels without breaking anything (besides if you do duratrax wil replace them for free within 12 months from date of purchase i believe). Also the hop-ups are plenty, so since i too am new to racing nitro i cant say much about others, just my experience with the nitro evader. good luck, if you interested go to www.duratrax.com
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Old 09-23-2003, 03:12 PM   #4
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No offense to you or your Evader but the question was for racing. The Evader is a fine RTR truck and it certainly is durable and fast but it can't be raced due to the .18 engine. In sanctioned races, not local or club races, the displacement limit is .12 which means you would need to buy a new engine.

Secondly, the electronics supplied with a RTR is usually an AM radio on 27MHz that has minimum adjustments. Of course you can race with it but with only six channels available you could have frequency conflicts and have to wait forever for practice time. So you would end up replacing the radio. The servos that are on RTRs are usuall the standard servos (re the cheap ones) which do not have the power to hold the steering or brakes and they don't center all too well either.

So although the Evader is a fine RTR it isn't what most people would call ready for prime time without spending an few hundred or so.
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Old 09-23-2003, 06:00 PM   #5
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i have a xxx-nt and it is very fast and quite indestructable. after adding an aluminum piviot block, and graphite front arms and rear shock tower.

my neighbor and I set up a 4 foot high dirt ramp and after a few tanks of 6 feet of air jumps the only thing that broke was my reciever.
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:54 PM   #6
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TambokGT:




In regards to trucks, I own 3 rc10gt A-mains, 1 RC10GT and 1 XXXNT. Heres my take:

Since you stated "racing", your choices are narrowed down to companies AE and Losi. I operate a track here, and of the many trucks that come through I haven't even seen the mugen in person yet. Not only that but local hobby shops nearest to me
(3 in a 2 mile radius) doesn't sell parts for the mugen.

For durablity, and ease of maintanance nothing is wrong with the associated. I really like this truck. Go for the Factory Team kit RC10GT non-pullstart model. and then add your own .12 powerplant, servos, Fm or PCM radio. The Associated truck is extremely reliable and an makes an excellent choice to get started on offroad track with. Jared Tebo won a National Race with RC10gt, so I know they can hang. I do not recommend buying the RTR kit because you will have to upgrade bushings to bearings, the motor, the servos, the radio.

For better performance and excellent handing go for the Losi XXXNT or XXXNT AD edition. Both are what I consider the best truck currently made today. One setback to the XXXNT is that it is labor intensive if you have to rebuild tranmission.You have to literally take apart the entire rear end to get at it. After doing this about 20 times its enough to make a grown man cry!
So if you buy this one before you leave the hobby store buy the RRP hardened aluminum diff gear and install it when you build the truck. Also the battery box is a weak link. In the machine shop on my campus my son made a brace that strenghthens the battery box . Other than that it is an excellent truck. Do not buy the XXXNT sport RTR because you will still have to upgrade it. Buy the model and build it up right!
My son liked mine so much he bought a Drake.

The A-Main Chassis was an older Aluminum racing chassis designed by A-Main Racing products back in the day. similar to the XXXnt style lower chassis plate and upper deck structure. The company is no longer in business.
All of mine have AE components A-arms, Tranmission, ect on it. and for ultimate durability This is the way to go. Imagine an RC10GT with a Losi Like Chassis structure. I have NEVER broke a part on one of three of these models. All three of mine are in-destructable. Since the company no longer exists I have considered milling a few chassis to keep as spare should I ever need a chassis part. but otherwise I can go to any hobby store and buy AE part to go on mine. I have only seen 1 amain that had losi components on it and I am waiting on my friend to offer to sell it to me.

Now to address the others: Traxxas, Duratrax Carlson(german) all make rtrs (yes they are fun), but you will have to spend some coin to seriously upgrade them to "race ready"

Hopefully whatever you get Just have fun!


chris
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:57 PM   #7
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yeah its definatly not a born out of the box racer, i didnt know what kind of racing you meant... informal street racing or the real races.. anyway your right about the servo being pretty weak, but for the breaks it stops well... and the radio does have trims and a couple of steering adjustments, but thats about it... it was good for my first starter... do you have any advice on a new electric that i should get... im thinking of a 1:10 to 1:8 on-road electric. thanks ahead of time
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Old 09-23-2003, 08:03 PM   #8
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Prestonrice:

I cant help you on-road...I only know Off-road. If it rolls in the dirt then fire away.


chris
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:04 PM   #9
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Factory team Gt all the way and I will try and explain without trying to start any flame wars.

Mugen Mst-1, while a very capable truck the thing is just plain week everywhere and every pivot point WILL be worn out in a matter of a couple of tanks of fuel. I owned one and raced one for about a month before I sold it on ebay cheap. Its kinda funny how if you look on ebay you always see mst-1's on their with the heading Mst-1 very little used for sale in good shape, thats becasue it doesn't take the average racer very long to figure out what a pile it is.


XXX-nt, another capable truck, Not much to really coment on other than sometimes the tranny can be a pain (alum. diff gear not the answer because it actually messes up the tranny worse) and the plastic/graphite can be kinda hit or miss, sometime they will take the beattin of the week and other times you look at them funny and they break. The losi typically handles rougher stuff better than the "stock" gt but the rear of the truck lacks traction quite often so sometimes it can be a handfull


Factory team gt, well what can you say other than this truck has won every title out their and is the 2 time in a row reigning Roar national champion. While the truck is dated why mess with a good thing. The Gt is by far the toughest truck to be had and has the most rear traction ( makes 2wd easy to drive) You do need to add a receiver box but thats about it, it just plain works well. With some simple tuning it DOES turn just as good as a losi but you will most likely always finish your race.


Engines. I always recomend the O.S. red head cv for a first time truck guy it will make driving much more enjoyable while getting used to the trucks handling especially on a dry day. I also really like the mugen mt-12 with a O.S. rotary carb. As for pipes the Adam Drake pipe is very good with the mt-12 and the factory team gt pipe is very good with the cv. Just remember their is no reason to spend tons of cash on a engine for a truck you simply can only put so much power to the ground and to much power will be a handfull.
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Old 09-23-2003, 10:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by prestonrice
yeah its definatly not a born out of the box racer, i didnt know what kind of racing you meant... informal street racing or the real races..
...

...off road race track races.
AreCee
......fancy seeing you here. thanks for the suggestions.
Chris
I started r/c with an RC10GT during the ealry 90's....I just wanted to know if this truck is still one of the best ones.
Thanks for the advice.
KingZJ :
...thanks for the suggestions. I'm leaning towards the GT. Can you tell me about that reciever box mod you mentioned....part #, pictures perhaps?

What is your opinion on the Crescenzi brake system?
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/brake_assembly.htm
I am interested in it 'coz it says you don't need a stronger throttle servo......is this true?
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Old 09-23-2003, 11:13 PM   #11
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I have both the FT GT and the AD XXX-NT.

Here's my take on both.....

RC10GT
Pros:
Bullet proof everything(almost)
Lightest of the bunch. Still fast with a O.S CV
easily servicable
Less parts in spares box

Cons:
Doesn't handle the rough stuff as well
Need to square up before jumps
Lawn darts when landing nose down
Shocks hard to bleed evenly
Needs more steering
Rear arm pivot blocks that always comes loose
Screw holes on front bulkhead and body mounts strips easily


XXX-NT
Pros:
Excellent jumping ability
Better tranny ratio-excellent acceleration
Handles rough stuff better
Easier to bleed shocks
Easier to drive hard and be faster with
Stiffer chassis

Cons:
Weak rear pivot block and battery box
Brittle arms(both Stiffezel and graphite)
Not easily servicable
Small clutchbell bearings
Rear camber ballstuds easily broken
Weak wheels, easily warped
Heavier
Need more parts in spares box


I also thought about getting the MST-1 but it too has a bunch of quirks.


I race on a dusty hard packed technical track with many jumps and ruts(darn 1/8 buggies) if it matters.
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Old 09-23-2003, 11:17 PM   #12
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TambokGT,

That's an old fashioned band brake like they used to use on cars at the turn of the century, 1900 not 2000.

I had a Cox 1/12 scale with a brake like that in the 80's.

It should work but personally I can't see how it could be much better than the stock brake on the GT. It's just as suseptable to dirt and oil as the stock binder is and looks like it weighs more and is more complex because now you have to modify the chassis to mount the band and then fix the drum on the slipper shaft and then change the linkage and then ........ Well, you get my drift.

I have the Losi but lately I've been hooked on 1/8 buggies and haven't used the 2wd since the end of last season.

L8r
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Old 09-23-2003, 11:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by prestonrice
yeah its definatly not a born out of the box racer, i didnt know what kind of racing you meant... informal street racing or the real races.. anyway your right about the servo being pretty weak, but for the breaks it stops well... and the radio does have trims and a couple of steering adjustments, but thats about it... it was good for my first starter... do you have any advice on a new electric that i should get... im thinking of a 1:10 to 1:8 on-road electric. thanks ahead of time
That's a lot of area to cover. In 1/10 you can start with Tamiya's TL-01 and go go the price ladder to the X-Ray T1 ($90 to $400). Do you want RTR? or a kit? Good cars in 1/10 are the TC3, Losi XXX-S, Yokomo. You want 1/8 elec. on-road try HPI Super Size. I think Schumacher may still make one in that size.
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Old 09-24-2003, 12:31 AM   #14
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Tambokgt,

the crez. brakes do work very well. I don't use them but allot of guys do. I have never had a problem with the stock break so never needed a change just have to keep the stock brake clean wich really isn't that hard.

The receiver box is made by rpm its like $10 or so and works very well, direct bolt in no mods needed.

the rear pivot blocks can either have nuts put on top of 3 of them or you can drop a drop of CA in the threads. the Ca seems to work the best and it still comes apart easy when you want it to.

For steering you modify the front c-hubs and install the t3 kingpin ball studs and you will have plenty of steering.

For the rough stuff run lighter shock oil or larger pistons. I have Mugen 200 wt in my shock now (I race on a real bumpy track) #2 pistons all around

I never had a problem with nose diving infact I have 1oz of lead in the front of my truck. I have found that the truck is sensitive to throttle before a jump try diferent throttle when aproaching a problem jump.

I guess I have never experienced the problem of having to be perfectly square on the jump either. Usually it's not a problem to get square anyways. My gt just jumps great nice and flat all the time.
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Old 09-24-2003, 01:37 AM   #15
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Default RC10GT Mods

Here are some mods I done on the GT....

-NTC3 RX box

-Widened front axle(1/4" each side)

-Sunken alloy 8/32 nut in pivot block under spur gear(it still gets l
loose even with Loctite)

-Mugen captured ball ends

-MIP BB steering bellcranks w/ Kimbrough 1/8 scale servo saver

-Trinity tranny brace

-Locknuts on everything

As far as brakes go, the stock brakes are strong and work well enough for me.



KINGZJ,
Actually, I have no problems with the truck nosing over off of jumps. What I meant was when you DO nose over, it seems the chances of lawn darting is greater(compared to the XXXNT).

On the subject of squaring the jumps, my track has a lot of jump-turn-jump areas.
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Last edited by FREAKAH; 09-24-2003 at 01:44 AM.
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