R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-01-2008, 09:42 PM   #16
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Dallas,Tx
Posts: 3,666
Trader Rating: 70 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TexRacer
Default

RCdad- Im right there with ya. I have alot of V2's and Checkpoints and in offroad these motor's will last 30-40 runs on most occasions before any maintance is needed.
I love the feel of them to.

I have alot of Reedy,Check and Orion arms but the only thing is most of them are for my onroad side and are 7 turns.

I have alot of 11 turn arms for trinity,epic.

Let me know if any of these fit what you need.
Otherwise it's almost cheaper to pick up USED measured Mod motor's that it is even armature's from motor companies.

Let me know if I can help.

Les
TexRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2008, 11:31 PM   #17
Tech Champion
 
thecman26's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central Kansas
Posts: 7,753
Trader Rating: 99 (100%+)
Default

Try looking on ebay.
I have listed a BUNCH of brushed motors and feel like I am giving them away for what people keep bidding...
I am sure theres more than enough on ebay to keep your supplies from drying up.
If not I would say Banzai could keep ya covored!
__________________
Chris Keen: Viola, Kansas
Kyosho RZ6, TLR 22 3.0, TLR 4.0 SR (soon),& 22T 3.0
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!", Col. Sanders
thecman26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 12:44 AM   #18
Tech Elite
 
tom_chang79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,591
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I've been into RCs for 20 years now. As a kid, my first real RC was a RC10CE graphite (see avatar) and then later a Jrx-T (converted to an LXT), and a RC10LSS.

All I've ever known was brushed stock motors. After a 10+ year hiatus, I started to get into cheapie modified motors. Some of the lower turn, single/double machine-wounds were pretty hot IMO.

This year, I bought a brushless for the first time, the Mamba Max 5700. At first I regretted it, since I have one of the best brushed controllers on the market, the Novak GTX (this thing is still a beauty, so small and compact).

After running the Mamba Max with the brushless 5700kV, I've never looked back ever again. The brushless was a little hard to get used to, but after a few runs with it, I wondered how I ever got along with my cars without it. No longer will I have to worry whether I had enough stretch to get up to speed for a double (or a triple) jumps, no longer will I have to worry about holding up traffic on the straightaway.

After tuning this ESC via Castle Link software, the ESC and Motor feels very comfortable. The throttle does not "jump" as some people claim with brushless systems.

I've enjoyed my time with brushed. I even own a Cobra Lathe to cut my brushed motors to keep them in top shape. However, since the brushless, I do not miss having to service it at all. I do not miss the times when I worry that the motor isn't enough for my car. I do not miss the uncertainties I faced when gearing since brushless has so much more torque across the entire RPM band...

I think brushed motors WILL be extinct one day. The maintenance and the performance alone is enough to obsolete the brushed IMO...

Some people are still die-hard brushed motor fans, and I can respect that. It's market share that manufacturers care for the most. If majority of the market or the trend of the market is moving towards brushless, you can bet that brushed will become "nearly" extinct as NiCd batteries when NiMH batteries matured...
__________________
RIP TAP RC
tom_chang79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 01:57 AM   #19
Tech Addict
 
Metla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 631
Default

Brushed motors are the pox, Sooner they are gone the better.
Metla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 09:46 AM   #20
Tech Master
 
RC Dad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bismarck
Posts: 1,355
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to RC Dad
Default

I have enough used motors, but most have been cut and re-cut, bearings are getting sloppy, brush hoods tarnished etc. They have just lost their peak. I'm not an eBay fan, if I want someone's misrepresented old crap I can find that locally. I'll only buy nib off ebay, and I did grab a few of those Reedy's while they're still available.

It appears that Banzai is going to be the way to go if I want new cans with fresh magnets and new bearings. By the time you zap the magnets and replace the bearings, then buy a new armature, it just doesn't add up. BanzaiMom, I'll be in touch soon.
__________________
GV2 Pro, XXX4G+, Blitz SCT, CRC GenXL
RC Dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 11:57 AM   #21
Tech Master
 
chewiefttc4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: algonac, mi
Posts: 1,552
Trader Rating: 26 (96%+)
Send a message via AIM to chewiefttc4 Send a message via Yahoo to chewiefttc4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
I have enough used motors, but most have been cut and re-cut, bearings are getting sloppy, brush hoods tarnished etc. They have just lost their peak. I'm not an eBay fan, if I want someone's misrepresented old crap I can find that locally. I'll only buy nib off ebay, and I did grab a few of those Reedy's while they're still available.

It appears that Banzai is going to be the way to go if I want new cans with fresh magnets and new bearings. By the time you zap the magnets and replace the bearings, then buy a new armature, it just doesn't add up. BanzaiMom, I'll be in touch soon.


take the hoods off and dip them in some brasso or copper cleaner.. but make sure to use a brush hood realigning tool when you place them back on. you can buy new bearings and the motors can be cut many times before worrying.
chewiefttc4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 12:33 PM   #22
Tech Master
 
RC Dad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bismarck
Posts: 1,355
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to RC Dad
Default

For whatever reason I just enjoy working on brushed motors. I clean bearings every 2-4 runs, cut comms and replace brushes nearly every race day (4-10 runs) on every motor. I even dyno them once or twice each season to make sure the springs are still set right. My comms all have only 1 or 2 cuts left and the magnets just don't have the force they used to. I did send some cans off to get the magnets zapped but was only marginally happy with the results.

IMO there comes a point where a complete new motor is in order, usually after one full season at most...although I have one unusually durable Trinity D5 can that's been in use for 3 years with a variety of armatures in it.

Does anyone have a good tip for replacing bearings? Bushings come out easy enough and the endbell bearing isn't usually a problem but when trying to drive out the bearing in the front of the can I always seem to pop the inner race out of the bearing and end up damaging the can to get the outer race peeled out by itself.
__________________
GV2 Pro, XXX4G+, Blitz SCT, CRC GenXL
RC Dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 03:25 PM   #23
Tech Elite
 
ta_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,365
Trader Rating: 151 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
For whatever reason I just enjoy working on brushed motors. I clean bearings every 2-4 runs, cut comms and replace brushes nearly every race day (4-10 runs) on every motor. I even dyno them once or twice each season to make sure the springs are still set right. My comms all have only 1 or 2 cuts left and the magnets just don't have the force they used to. I did send some cans off to get the magnets zapped but was only marginally happy with the results.

IMO there comes a point where a complete new motor is in order, usually after one full season at most...although I have one unusually durable Trinity D5 can that's been in use for 3 years with a variety of armatures in it.

Does anyone have a good tip for replacing bearings? Bushings come out easy enough and the end bell bearing isn't usually a problem but when trying to drive out the bearing in the front of the can I always seem to pop the inner race out of the bearing and end up damaging the can to get the outer race peeled out by itself.
A good magnet zapper should be able to restore the magnets to full strength. Maybe the guy you sent them to wasn't using a Team 1 Zapper or something equivalent. I meter my cans before and after zapping and have never failed to have one come up to where they should be. I've got cans that I have run in a stock spec class for about 5 years now that come out after zapping as strong as new ones.

The D5 lasted 3 years, eh? There's a hint there: the cans with good magnets last longer and are not as susceptible to degradation.

The proper way to replace can bearings is with a bearing tool (specially designed for removing and pressing in bearings). However before I got a bearing press I used an improvised method as follows. I had an old slot car wheel (aluminum). It was big enough that the bearing would fit inside the wheel. So I put the wheel inside the can, took a looonnng 4-40 screw and put that in the bearing from the outside and put a nut on the other end. Hold the nut with a nut driver and slowly tighten the 4-40 screw. The secret to successful bearing removal is not to pound on it but to apply pressure slowly. Slow pressure will remove them without damage. Then you can use the equivalent technique to get them back in. If using the improvised method, stop before they are all the way in and then use a wood dowel larger than the diameter of the bearing to pound it in the rest of the way. Being larger than the bearing, it will be stopped by the can before it can damage the bearing.
ta_man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 05:29 PM   #24
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,550
Trader Rating: 240 (100%+)
Default

RC Dad: When Brandon put in that good battery pack his speed sure came up for the main. i was worried the B44 guy was gonna beat ya! Can't be having that! when i raced that guy the day before with the loaner brushless B4, took a lot of throttle control to keep the car going forward for sure.

It takes alittle getting used to going from brushed to brushless in my opinion. Just seems like there is much more punch. When you have an ESC though that lets you play with the various settings like a Mamba Max, etc. You can tune it to feel just like you like. Pretty much what I did with the Mamba Monster ESC and my Brushless RC8. you also need to be good on the throttle finger, but having that power there is a blast.

may be worth going with 1 brushless setup in a vehicle to get used to the feel and working from there.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno EB48SL / SCT410.3 | Tekno EB410 x 2 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2 | LC Racing EMB-1 Buggies and Truggies >
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 09:13 AM   #25
Tech Master
 
RC Dad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bismarck
Posts: 1,355
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to RC Dad
Default

Yeah, the poor kid had to qualify with a stick pack out of the nitro starter box while we charged up a good ProMatch pack for the main!
I think we'll be switching at least one car over to brushless this winter. We have run BL in the 1/18 but not 1/10 yet. I like the concept of the mamba system computer link but haven't been able to work it to any usable advantage yet in minis.
I think I'd rather look for something ROAR legal for 1/10 in case we actually get to some bigger races in the next year or two. Any suggestions for 4-6 cell setup? That way we can run it in 1/12 on carpet this winter and hopefully figure it out before off-road starts again.
__________________
GV2 Pro, XXX4G+, Blitz SCT, CRC GenXL

Last edited by RC Dad; 10-03-2008 at 01:55 PM.
RC Dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 09:38 AM   #26
Tech Elite
 
RCHR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,490
Default

It used to be nice being able to swap out a $35 armature with the right wind for the track, compared to having to swap out an $85 brushless motor today.

Although having 1 single lipo battery makes up for it!
__________________
Radio Control Hobbies & Raceway
1258 South Main Street, Waterbury, CT. 06706
203-575-9757 / www.rchr.biz / [email protected]
RCHR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 12:46 PM   #27
Super Moderator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rochester Hills Michigan
Posts: 7,232
Default

Regarding the feel issue and the need for a ROAR legal setup, consider the Novak Light series. We’ve tried a couple, seem to work pretty well for offroad. Kinda like running a double or triple wind instead of a single. A couple of the brushed fans at our track have ran some hot laps and they seemed to be encouraged too.

Doesn’t mean they won’t take some getting used to. I’m guessing most of the guys that are having a hard time adjusting to brushless have years of experience. The Lights work great with the punch adjustability of a Speed Passion GT controller, makes a smooth combo for us anyway.
Dave H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 12:54 PM   #28
Tech Champion
 
Jason Pelletier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 8,820
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave H View Post
Regarding the feel issue and the need for a ROAR legal setup, consider the Novak Light series. We’ve tried a couple, seem to work pretty well for offroad. Kinda like running a double or triple wind instead of a single. A couple of the brushed fans at our track have ran some hot laps and they seemed to be encouraged too.

Doesn’t mean they won’t take some getting used to. I’m guessing most of the guys that are having a hard time adjusting to brushless have years of experience. The Lights work great with the punch adjustability of a Speed Passion GT controller, makes a smooth combo for us anyway.

I have 7.5L it's a good motor. You have to get used to it alittle bit but it's awesome when you do. Very fast IMHO.
__________________
Island Raceway & Hobby
Jason Pelletier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 02:04 PM   #29
Tech Master
 
RC Dad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bismarck
Posts: 1,355
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to RC Dad
Default

I was looking at those light series for that same reason. What are thoughts on the Sphere or GTB speedos so I can go back and forth between B/BL if the track requires it?
Also, 17.5 is the stock equivalent, right (for 1/12 scale)? Does it have to be sensored to be ROAR legal? Are there BL speedos that do both sensored and non?
__________________
GV2 Pro, XXX4G+, Blitz SCT, CRC GenXL
RC Dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 02:10 PM   #30
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,550
Trader Rating: 240 (100%+)
Default

general concensus I get is that the LRP sphere esc works really well for a sensored ESC. Tekin's RS also appears to work well too.

I would probably go with whatever ESC and motor combo that has the sensor wire detachable from the motor and the ESC.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno EB48SL / SCT410.3 | Tekno EB410 x 2 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2 | LC Racing EMB-1 Buggies and Truggies >
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ROAR B/L motor Rules debate thread C_O_jones Electric On-Road 1080 01-21-2008 08:00 PM
Novak Moves Toward Stock BL Jake S Electric Off-Road 27 08-06-2007 09:04 PM
Question for all Race Directors...BL systems stonedgti Electric On-Road 71 04-23-2007 02:58 PM
should the 13.5 brushless be ran in a stock brushed class formerpro4 Electric On-Road 187 04-10-2007 03:33 PM
4 Cell Sedan Racing AdrianM Electric On-Road 484 02-25-2005 06:47 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:08 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net