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Old 09-18-2008, 08:38 AM   #16
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I forgot the smart tray comes with a wall adapter , which the wall adapter is a 12V power supply .
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Old 09-18-2008, 09:59 AM   #17
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I dunno, pay off the 150.00 you owe and get busy on the lipo. 1 lipo is like 5 packs in one. you can get buy easy with one battery. just throw it on the charger in between heats. You gotta erase all that nimh thinking.

so anyway a dis and smart tray are used together as a couple said and thats like 80 bucks for both used.
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:16 PM   #18
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I've seen Novak Smart trays (original version) sell on eBay for around $25... and you can make your own discharger for about $10 in bulbs.. making your own would also give you some practice at soldering!

I agree that things are making a change to going LiPo for racing.. but the jury is still out on just how long they last... I have both... but the LiPos can cost as much as 3x the amount of my NiMh packs... sounds like you are on a budget.. so you can go with the "bleeding" edge of r/c and take the risk.. or go with proven proformance.

Everybody keeps saying how much better their LiPos are than NiMh.. I'm not seeing it.. ya they are way more convenient... but as for proformance.. I don't think so..

I have said before in many posts.. I usually get about a year out of my NiMh at race level.. and I race every weekend.. and usually some practice in there. At a year.. the packs are at the expected 80% of voltage.. so the packs that were in the begining 7.4v at 5min (disharging at 20amps) are then somewhere in the neighborhood of 6v.. and volts = speed this you can especially notice in stock racing.. mod not so much because the speed is mostly from the motor.. you can gear it up a little.. or turn the timing up if brushed.

I think the folks that are seeing the big difference either have had some really crappy packs, used them for past their prime, or didn't really take care of them to good..

LiPos are also lighter.. my Orion 3200 is around 8oz and a 4200 EP NiMh is around 16oz.... so you will feel more punch because of weight when using the average LiPo vs. NiMh pack...

A good say 4200 EP NiMh 6-cell pack can have 7.4v @ 5min with a 20amp discharge. A typical Orion 3200 LiPo only has around 7v @ the same time and discharge...

So.. it's your call and your dime.. for me the jury is still out..

Good luck!

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Old 09-18-2008, 02:33 PM   #19
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The only problem with making a bulb discharger is there is no cut-off and you can easily bring the pack down to far .

I had excellent nimh packs and can see the difference when I switched to lipos . Lipos keep the voltage higher and longer then nimh . Lipos don`t start to dump until the end unlike nimh .

Quote:
so you will feel more punch because of weight when using the average LiPo vs. NiMh pack...
Not really , most add weight to compensate the difference in weight and yes a 30C pack does seem to have more punch even with the weight added .

Quote:
A good say 4200 EP NiMh 6-cell pack can have 7.4v @ 5min with a 20amp discharge. A typical Orion 3200 LiPo only has around 7v @ the same time and discharge...
You might want to check your numbers , a fully charged nimh can have 7.4 volts while a fully charged lipo can have 8+ volts . After a 5 minute run with my orion 3800 lipo there is still above 7.4 volts , unlike a 3800 nimh which rarely see 6.9 after 5 minutes .
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Old 09-18-2008, 04:19 PM   #20
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Well you are certainly entitled to your opion. I disagree with you though..

A 5 minute run is different from a full 20amp discharge for 5min... and if you only have 6.9v on your 3800 after a 5 min "run", I hate to tell you that those are really not that good of a pack. Sorry...

I have tested hundreds of packs and have been racing for close to 2 decades... I have yet to find evidence that supports your (and many other's) claims... Just because people keep saying sometihng, doesn't make it true....

I look forward the test more LiPos and hope to find tests that support your experience.. that would be great for the hobby!


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Old 09-18-2008, 04:23 PM   #21
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Well you are certainly entitled to your opion. I disagree with you though..

A 5 minute run is different from a full 20amp discharge for 5min... and if you only have 6.9v on your 3800 after a 5 min "run", I hate to tell you that those are really not that good of a pack. Sorry...

I have tested hundreds of packs and have been racing for close to 2 decades... I have yet to find evidence that supports your (and many other's) claims... Just because people keep saying sometihng, doesn't make it true....

I look forward the test more LiPos and hope to find tests that support your experience.. that would be great for the hobby!


Jerome

This doesnt look like it will turn out good.....

When you get a lipo battery when should you position the weight on the truck to make it like a nimh battery?
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Old 09-18-2008, 04:32 PM   #22
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Well... on some like the 3200 you can put the weight on the battery itself or on the battery bar on others.

The light weight is one of the advantages you can use with running LiPos... if you are going to do that you might just want to run decent NiMh and get the voltage advantage.... remember more volts = more power . lighter weight = less power required to move the car

Some folks use the added weights to distribute weight to a better advantage based on the handling of the vehicle on the track.. some will add it to the nose to gain more steering.. some to the back to give more rear tire traction.

Either way you go you should be fine... LiPo or NiMh.. but with each requires specific car in use. As time goes on we will see if the lifetime claims of LiPos pan out...


Have fun!

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Old 09-18-2008, 04:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeK99 View Post
Well... on some like the 3200 you can put the weight on the battery itself or on the battery bar on others.

The light weight is one of the advantages you can use with running LiPos... if you are going to do that you might just want to run decent NiMh and get the voltage advantage.... remember more volts = more power . lighter weight = less power required to move the car

Some folks use the added weights to distribute weight to a better advantage based on the handling of the vehicle on the track.. some will add it to the nose to gain more steering.. some to the back to give more rear tire traction.

Either way you go you should be fine... LiPo or NiMh.. but with each requires specific car in use. As time goes on we will see if the lifetime claims of LiPos pan out...


Have fun!

Jerome

I heard somewhere that you should position the weight as close to the middle as possible. I would think that if you position the weight in the front and in the rear only wouldnt it have great rear traction AND steering? im a little confused on this.
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Old 09-18-2008, 10:21 PM   #24
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That is really going to be an "at the track" adjustment.

There are a lot of factors to consider like suspension setup... tires... track conditions etc....

Most folks use double sided servo tape so they can change the positions of the weight.


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