Advice needed...
#16
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
I got my first hobby grade RC about 3 years ago and it was an Associated Team B4, The build was simple and the instructions were great. I'm sure he could build it with no problem, just tell him to take his time.
As far as motor/esc I think this would be best: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUTA5&P=ML
Along with the battery and charger that I mentioned before.
As far as motor/esc I think this would be best: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUTA5&P=ML
Along with the battery and charger that I mentioned before.
#17
You are very wrong about the sintered rotor comment. I was using an XBR in my buggy and truck last season with 13.5 Pro motors which as you know come with sintered rotors. There is no issue at all running a sintered rotor motor with an XBR. I even used one of the XBR's in a sedan with a 10.5 sintered rotor motor. Both are still running great.
#19
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
if hes gonna start racing i reccomend a full factory team t4 kit with a xbr 10.5 brushless maybe a lipo and a charger. and a good decently speedy servo
reason why a 1/10 truck.. its better all around when conditions get rough and its still fun. and he will have a easier time controlling the thing than a stock buggy .. (imo buggys are more precise and easier to mess up with )
reason why a 1/10 truck.. its better all around when conditions get rough and its still fun. and he will have a easier time controlling the thing than a stock buggy .. (imo buggys are more precise and easier to mess up with )
#21
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
xbr
The xbr can handle down to a 8.5. Depending on the track he is running on (assuming this nitro track you run on) he may need a bigger motor if he wants to run mod. It would be better to get the gtb if he eventually will run mod but because he is startin out you never will know if he will just lose interest or like stock. I wouldn't get him a gtb because xbr esc($125-130) with a sepearte novak ss 13.5 (80$ ish) is cheaper than gtb 13.5 (250$-260$)
Trucks run more motor in mod but stock uses all the same motor
If b4 or t4 Factory team all the way like chewiefttc4 said
Trucks run more motor in mod but stock uses all the same motor
If b4 or t4 Factory team all the way like chewiefttc4 said
#22
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
First off, you said he might want to get into racing.. well.. what do the local tracks race?
Some electric RTRs are ok.. there seems to be a big push out here with the Traxxas Slash trucks.. very durable and affordable as a race class.
If mom isn't going to get into pitting.. then consider brushless for sure! I would also suggest 1/10th scale trucks. Less breakage and easier to learn than a buggy. Losi has a RTR brushless truck.. 17.5 is considered stock these days for brushless.. but check with your local track on that.. some aren't running them yet.
Another thing to consider 1/10th scale racing over 1/8th is turn marshalling.. an 8 year old kid could get hurt really bad from a 1/8th scale buggy.
Good luck!
Jerome
Some electric RTRs are ok.. there seems to be a big push out here with the Traxxas Slash trucks.. very durable and affordable as a race class.
If mom isn't going to get into pitting.. then consider brushless for sure! I would also suggest 1/10th scale trucks. Less breakage and easier to learn than a buggy. Losi has a RTR brushless truck.. 17.5 is considered stock these days for brushless.. but check with your local track on that.. some aren't running them yet.
Another thing to consider 1/10th scale racing over 1/8th is turn marshalling.. an 8 year old kid could get hurt really bad from a 1/8th scale buggy.
Good luck!
Jerome
#23
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
You are very wrong about the sintered rotor comment. I was using an XBR in my buggy and truck last season with 13.5 Pro motors which as you know come with sintered rotors. There is no issue at all running a sintered rotor motor with an XBR. I even used one of the XBR's in a sedan with a 10.5 sintered rotor motor. Both are still running great.
run the the sintered rotor motor on the XBR but u can put a sintered rotor
in the EX motors
#24
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
+1 on the XXX-T RTR, its a great way to get started in the hobby and not be out a TON of money like some of the other posts...
Basically its a XXX-T with lower end electronics and motor. It can EASILY be upgraded as his skill level improves. Better motors, servos, and speed controls. Also better chassis and suspension piecec can be had too for not a lotta dough! Maybe as time progresses and he gets even better, THEN he may want to go to the buggy class?
1/10th scale truck is HANDS DOWN the place for a beginner to start!
Basically its a XXX-T with lower end electronics and motor. It can EASILY be upgraded as his skill level improves. Better motors, servos, and speed controls. Also better chassis and suspension piecec can be had too for not a lotta dough! Maybe as time progresses and he gets even better, THEN he may want to go to the buggy class?
1/10th scale truck is HANDS DOWN the place for a beginner to start!
#25
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
If you have active truck/buggy classes locally than I'd agree with the T4/B4 RTR recommendations. You certainly don't need FT kits to be competitive for club racing and the factory electronics are now much better than in the past and support down to 12 or 15T motors which are plenty fast. The factory motors are short-lived but good enough to start with.
For a charger I'd recommend an Ice or similar that can do both Lipo and NiCD/NiMH so his options are open for the future. 2 or 3 good 4200 stick packs should be enough to keep him running all day without worry. Total cash outlay shoudl be just under $500.
For a charger I'd recommend an Ice or similar that can do both Lipo and NiCD/NiMH so his options are open for the future. 2 or 3 good 4200 stick packs should be enough to keep him running all day without worry. Total cash outlay shoudl be just under $500.
#26
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
Directly from novak website
"MOTOR COMPATIBILITY & BRUSHLESS SYSTEMS
The XBR Sport ESC is compatible with both sensored brushless and brush motors, including Novak’s line of sport brushless motors - the EX-Series - and Novak’s Pro Series - SS8.5 Pro, SS10.5 Pro and SS13.5 Pro."
#27
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
If you have active truck/buggy classes locally than I'd agree with the T4/B4 RTR recommendations. You certainly don't need FT kits to be competitive for club racing and the factory electronics are now much better than in the past and support down to 12 or 15T motors which are plenty fast. The factory motors are short-lived but good enough to start with.
For a charger I'd recommend an Ice or similar that can do both Lipo and NiCD/NiMH so his options are open for the future. 2 or 3 good 4200 stick packs should be enough to keep him running all day without worry. Total cash outlay shoudl be just under $500.
For a charger I'd recommend an Ice or similar that can do both Lipo and NiCD/NiMH so his options are open for the future. 2 or 3 good 4200 stick packs should be enough to keep him running all day without worry. Total cash outlay shoudl be just under $500.
he should just get lipo. one pack
lasts 10 times longer than nimh cells.
as far as the comment about getting a faster motor than a 8.5 for mod racing. i race mod with a 10.5 in my b4 and do just fine. (you can gear the crap outta them)
#28
Then you have people at your track doing things wrong with that speedo then. I ran the XBR with 13.5 and 10.5 Pro sintered rotor motors and never had a problem. I never got the combo kits, just the speedo. I knew the EX motors are not that great. The EX motors are basically like the old version of the originals that came out when Novak first got into it. They have bonded rotors in them and as far as I know you can get a sintered rotor kit to upgrade them. I never said anything about running a sintered rotor in an EX motor anyhow. I was only referring to your comment you can't use sintered rotor motors with an XBR. Which is a false statement. I would say your friends or whoever did not have them geared right and fried the speedo.
#29
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Thanks again everyone, soooo helpful. It looks like we are going to go truck. There isn't actually a bunch of electric racing going on at our local tracks, we are in Hemet in SoCal. The most i have seen though out practicing round here has been truck, and i will go with whatever he wants so i have the motivation to go further afield to race. NOT and i repeat NOT so i have more excuses to go racing.
I knew someone was going to go over my head and it was "sintered" that did it.
Sintered, brushless... stock... no idea.
What is the most popular class? Does LiPo have a class of it's own or any regulations? Have the safety issues of LiPo been worked out? The kid will be using it on it's own as well...
I am going to guess here stock will be fast enough for him first off... last time i raced electric that meant a 27 turn single.
I knew someone was going to go over my head and it was "sintered" that did it.
Sintered, brushless... stock... no idea.
What is the most popular class? Does LiPo have a class of it's own or any regulations? Have the safety issues of LiPo been worked out? The kid will be using it on it's own as well...
I am going to guess here stock will be fast enough for him first off... last time i raced electric that meant a 27 turn single.
#30
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Then you have people at your track doing things wrong with that speedo then. I ran the XBR with 13.5 and 10.5 Pro sintered rotor motors and never had a problem. I never got the combo kits, just the speedo. I knew the EX motors are not that great. The EX motors are basically like the old version of the originals that came out when Novak first got into it. They have bonded rotors in them and as far as I know you can get a sintered rotor kit to upgrade them. I never said anything about running a sintered rotor in an EX motor anyhow. I was only referring to your comment you can't use sintered rotor motors with an XBR. Which is a false statement. I would say your friends or whoever did not have them geared right and fried the speedo.
which is 8.5 and had smoke it right gearing right hook up
every thing