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Old 09-02-2008, 04:32 PM   #1
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Default nose pich

hey guys i have a few problems i cant get the nose to come down on my b4 when i hit a jump i tried to increase the break but didnt help just made me stop
faster what should i do
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:39 PM   #2
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and your hitting the brakes in the air? cause that should bring the nose down while your flying. try letting off the throttle right before you take off from the jump.
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:40 PM   #3
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its going nose high so ill try that and i might add about 1/4 of an ounce. thanks
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:05 PM   #4
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Well... you could try softening the front suspension and/or stiffening the rear..

Is this on one jump, or every jump? Could be a badly made jump.... it happens..


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Old 09-02-2008, 06:11 PM   #5
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i was thinking about that ill try it thanks
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:15 PM   #6
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Whats your shock setup front and rear? piston number, spring color, and shock fluid
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:17 PM   #7
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Im guessing the springs in the front are too stiff compared to the rear springs, or your rear shocks are really low on fluid or blown out
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Old 09-02-2008, 07:26 PM   #8
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front brown springs,wt 32.5 rear green springs 22.5 wt i just rebuilded the shocks friday and i check the rears they dont feel blown ill try to different oils
and see where that gets me
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Old 09-02-2008, 07:52 PM   #9
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Default front springs

The next weight of spring is silver backs so try that
Also couldn't he b bottoming out on the face of the jump?
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Old 09-02-2008, 08:21 PM   #10
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I would try 27.5 or 30 in the rear. there is no leakage from the shocks, i guess you would have felt it huh.

A tip for the next time you rebuild your shocks, not saying you did anything wrong but you wont risk damaging the o-rings. put the last thin plastic spacer that goes on the little build stick, put that spacer in the shock first and then make sure it is flat against the bottom of the body, you can use a hex wrench just be carefull not to scratch the inside of the body, then stick the rest of the stuff that is on the build stick in starting with the O-ring, thick spacer, o-ring, thin spacer (same as the one that you put in the shock body allready and then last is the clip that holds everything down and use plenty of oil or what i prefer is the green slime stuff and press togeather until it snaps in and then look and make sure the shaft from the stick is sticking out further like it should and that the clip has all 4 corners in. If you build them like the instructions tell you to you have about a 1 in 10 chance or better to damage the o-rings from the first thin spacer getting hung up as it goes into the area where the o-rings sit.
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Old 09-02-2008, 08:26 PM   #11
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My shock setup is front: 35wt. #1 piston, brown spring, -2 limiters (2 turns out on shock rod end.
Rear: 30wt. green spring, #2 piston .030" limiters-not much

Car jumps very even unless you are acceleratin extremely hard up the lip and off the lip then of coarse it will go nose high.

I was having a problem with the front diving really bad in the air until i took my silver springs out and put the green springs in the rear. Silver is a bit stiffer than the green.

Hope this helps
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porkey View Post
front brown springs,wt 32.5 rear green springs 22.5 wt i just rebuilded the shocks friday and i check the rears they dont feel blown ill try to different oils
and see where that gets me
you should try browns with 35 wt. in the front and greens in the back with 30wt.
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:44 PM   #13
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Yeah increase the weight of the rear shocks to at least 30 as a starter. Something to make it have more pack, thus on launch your rear won't launch so much. Generally, I go 30 in the front, 35 in the rear. Works on the tracks I race at.

Other tuning options... Stand up Front shocks, Laydown rear shocks. Whichever tuning changes you make, make them one at a time, test and tune again.

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Old 09-02-2008, 10:12 PM   #14
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Check your diff and make sure it isn't binding. If it is it might have the same effect as hitting the brakes in the air. I had a similar problem and my diff turned out to be garbage.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tater salad View Post
I would try 27.5 or 30 in the rear. there is no leakage from the shocks, i guess you would have felt it huh.

A tip for the next time you rebuild your shocks, not saying you did anything wrong but you wont risk damaging the o-rings. put the last thin plastic spacer that goes on the little build stick, put that spacer in the shock first and then make sure it is flat against the bottom of the body, you can use a hex wrench just be carefull not to scratch the inside of the body, then stick the rest of the stuff that is on the build stick in starting with the O-ring, thick spacer, o-ring, thin spacer (same as the one that you put in the shock body allready and then last is the clip that holds everything down and use plenty of oil or what i prefer is the green slime stuff and press togeather until it snaps in and then look and make sure the shaft from the stick is sticking out further like it should and that the clip has all 4 corners in. If you build them like the instructions tell you to you have about a 1 in 10 chance or better to damage the o-rings from the first thin spacer getting hung up as it goes into the area where the o-rings sit.
ok ill mess w/ the shocks like that thanks for all your guys help
Quote:
Originally Posted by bprocket View Post
Check your diff and make sure it isn't binding. If it is it might have the same effect as hitting the brakes in the air. I had a similar problem and my diff turned out to be garbage.
i just rebuilded my diff and i make shure its not gritty
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