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Old 08-28-2008, 06:30 AM   #1
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Questions?? XXXTcr XXXTMF2 Problems??

I am just wondering if there are any known problems with the trucks? One guy at the local track said that the XXXTcr that he is running has a lot of play in the rear end that he can't get rid of. Seems like the parts were not molded right.


Thanks for the info in advance.

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Old 08-28-2008, 07:08 AM   #2
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Don't you think thats kinda vague, play in the rear end. Did he state what the problem was and how long has he been racing. I have the xxxt-cr
excellent car only issue I had was dog bones , and thats because I tried to use the car for oval and put a harsh angle on the dog bones. The xxxt-cr is decent and the mf2 are nice trucks. Remember this if every thing is tight every where that stress will transfer to another area even harder.Also
there is a thread on the xxxt-cr with people telling with common problems might be during racing to watch for .

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Old 08-28-2008, 07:59 AM   #3
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Both trucks you mention are great . You need some slop or else everything will bind up . Also if he has been racing it a long time , parts do wear after time .
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Old 08-28-2008, 11:11 AM   #4
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i got the matt frances edition truck and it may be kinda old but it keeps up. its a solid truck and i havent broke much at all for the time that ive had it. never had any issues with the rear end at all.
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:41 PM   #5
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I'm a newbe and have been racing for about two months. My truck is the XXXT-CR and in my short RC career I've managed to become competitive in the amature stock class. So, the XXXT-CR is a nice truck and is pretty popular at my local track.
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:52 PM   #6
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Both are great trucks. The MF2 is slightly more durable than the CR.
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:57 PM   #7
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The mf2 is a great truck aswell as the xxxt cr. I own the mf2 and haven't had any issues with the rear end.
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
Both are great trucks. The MF2 is slightly more durable than the CR.
Just the front arms , once you put graphite front arms on the CR it is just as durable .
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:00 PM   #9
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The main issue I heard about the XXXTCR was that there was a tendency for the ball studs to breakoff in the rear alloy hubs, which in turn were either hard or impossible to get out. As you can imagine, the hubs aren't cheap.

Other than that,I heard the car works really well. Maybe that hub issue is no longer an issue?
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
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The main issue I heard about the XXXTCR was that there was a tendency for the ball studs to breakoff in the rear alloy hubs, which in turn were either hard or impossible to get out. As you can imagine, the hubs aren't cheap.

Other than that,I heard the car works really well. Maybe that hub issue is no longer an issue?
That happened to me once and ever since I put Lunsford ball studs in never had a problem .
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Old 08-28-2008, 05:31 PM   #11
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+1 - Lunsford tie rods and ball studs all the way. At ~$40 a pair for the hubs I want to make them last.

I learned a hard lesson this week. Since I've been racing many people have told me to add weight to compensate for LiPo but I've been resisting. Been trying to get the car to work without the extra weight. Last night I just couldn't keep the car straight and keep up with the leaders in the qualifiers so I added ~2.5 oz around the battery tray and my times went from high 21-22 seconds down to mid 20s.

If you're a rookie and running LiPo, ADD THE WEIGHT.
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Old 08-30-2008, 04:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bprocket View Post
If you're a rookie and running LiPo, ADD THE WEIGHT.
All the power available is useless if you can't lay it on the ground... You don't want a heavy car but you also don't want something too light... Even before Lipos, I used to add some weights to the front end of a B4 to help it grip in the front. With all the exotic materials used in 2WD vehicles these days, cars are underweight IMO...
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