F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

It's alot quieter.
Part # IF147 is the 44 tooth Kyosho plastic gear, that's what will go right on just open up the plastic slot at the chassis cuz it's a hair wider, you'll see

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Do you have the Losi P/N for the 2.0 rear CVD? I want to get a couple and upgrade my 8ight--probably when the smart diffs release. Cheers!

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Yep, #LOSA3536 is the center rear CVD for the 2.0

SQC049

iTrader: (18)

Thanks man!

rearviewmirror

iTrader: (17)

Nice setup.. I got an new 8ight-T roller for $275 on the way! Going to do a full electric conversion on it.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

There was a guy trying to run his 8ight T on 3S with a Novak HV 5.5 system. It was pretty fast, but sadly, only lasted about 10 minutes or so. It quickly toasted itself, he has no idea why.

I've ordered the 2.0 rear drive shaft, along with CVD condoms to hold that stinkin pin in place. My car should be up and running soon, then I can get back out to the track for some more testing/practice! I ordered a larger pinion, the 13T on a 46 spur was just too low. I should be just right with the new one.

rc13

What setups are you guys running on your 8ight Ts? I ran mine at the track the other day with the box stock set up, and it was horrible. I had way to much power for the small track I was on; stock tires, diff oil, shock oil, everything was stock. The car had no steering at all, way to much brake dive, and was loose on power It was all over the place.

PLEASE HELP!!!!

P.S. I'm running :
Losi 4s 5000mah
Futaba bls351 servo
Mamba system w. 2200kv
15 tooth pinion & 44 tooth plastic spur

DRRC

iTrader: (59)

RC13
I had the same problems when I first got the car
The 8E is just too heavy for the nitro set up for me too

I currently use
green springs front and rear
50w oil all around, stock pistons
stock diff oils as of now
Drakes links and camber set ups
Ride height is high the springs are almost all the way down

I think the setup depends on your track and driving style
The new firmware rocketron posted is great
No more cogging from a standing start and the braking is better now

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

In addition to a setup change, you'll have to make a driving technique change. Those handling symptoms are those of an electric conversion. You can't dive into corners anymore, because you no longer have brake bias. Now you have to take a wider, more "Arched" curve to get through a corner fast. You also WANT that on power steering, so you can get out of the slow spot in the corner(as forced by the lack of brake bias) You can still be fast with it, but it will take a learning curve and a different line through the track.

I'm reasonably fast with mine, but when racing skilled drivers slinging their nitros around, it becomes quite clear why brake bias is CRITICAL to an 8th scale. I'm putting together another brushless conversion, but this time, I'm keeping my mechanical brakes.

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

I don't think brake bias is all that necessary. I used to have that push issue with my rc8 in turns, but then I got the xray 808 and I can take turns very tight now. The car can dive and swing around the turns very similar to the nitros I race with. It is something with the setup that causes those issues, not necessarily being on power all the time. It is a very different driving style though. Definitely none of the nitro blipping.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I should have been more specific. Brake Bias is critical for ME to be really fast. I know I'm competing with sponsored drivers, and I have no illusions of beating them. I do, however, know when my car can be faster based on a single adjustment... in this case, one I cannot do. With an Identical car, using an Identical setup, just nitro in stead of electric, I'm about .5-1 second faster. That may not seem like much, but that was the difference between my fastest lap and the leader's. If his hot lap is that much faster, then I know all my other laps are at least that much slower.

My next conversion will DEF have brake bias. It drives me crazy that I can't dive as deep into a corner without pushing out of it. I let a couple of those guys wheel the car, and they all said the same thing I was thinking... "Needs more rear brakes" If I change the diff fluids to suit that braking issue, I lose my on power and mid corner speed. So it's a catch 22 for me.

Miller_Time

iTrader: (11)

I think the only time you would miss the brake bias of a mechanical setup is if you're racing alongside nitros. You'll need to take different lines which can be problematic in traffic. Otherwise your lap times should be as good or better.

Personally I prefer to not run with the nitros if I can help it, it just isn't fun.

I finally got a chance to run the 8ight-E today with the replacement esc/motor and new firmware, and it was great. Ran two packs through, getting around 30-35 minutes on a large sized track. I'm using Zippy-H 5s 5000 mAh packs with a 14t pinion. After about 20 minutes on the first pack the motor was starting to show some heat at around 170F. I cut out about a 1" high section of the front windshield to get more air in and also adjusted the radio. Set the endpoints for throttle at 80 and brakes at 70, exponential to -30% on both - it just had too much power at 100%.

Second pack was much better, still more power than I ever needed but the throttle and brakes were tamed down to the point where I could keep it on a line. At about 30 minutes the LVC kicked in, and the motor was only at 140F. I think the front windshield being cut out was a huge improvement for airflow.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I have to race Nitros, there's only 2 more electric 8th scales in the area, and one lives pretty far from the track. That means, that if I'm lucky I could race two guys. Maybe it'll get better in a year or two, when the class starts to take off... But at this point, why would I want to go slower? I have all the power I need, it handles very well, but I can't dive into a corner like they can. I can hang with them through allot of the track, but they get under and pass me in the tight corners. No setup changes will fix that... brake bias will.

I'm thinking about cutting a hole in my body like that. It gets pretty darn warm around here, almost 100 degrees, PLUS humidity in the 90-100% range! I need all the cooling air I can get! I've got two heat sinks on board, and prolly gonna add a fan this summer.

rc13

Thanks DRRC for posting your setup. I guess it's a learning experience. I'm going to check the instructions, and see what shock oil, and springs are on there. I will definitely be putting on M3 holeshots, and go from there.

I'll be going to Revelation (1/8 scale track) on friday to test and tune. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again

az00lude

iTrader: (8)

Could it be that you're loose because of this? Straight from the manual.

Outdrives and traction: When you 8IGHT-T is new it will have a lot of chassis roll and be a little loose on throttle due to lack of friction in the
outdrives and crossbones. After about 45-60 minutes of running the 8IGHT-T will gain traction and stability. Once your 8IGHT-T is broken
in, replacing the outdrives and crossbones with new parts will have more corner speed.