Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread >

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 07-14-2012, 02:12 PM
  #7801  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 509
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

I need to put in a servo in my 8ight-e, how much torque is required for the buggy? will 144oz cut it?

thanks
jonasm48 is offline  
Old 07-14-2012, 02:21 PM
  #7802  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (29)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 264
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jonasm48 View Post
I need to put in a servo for my 8ight-e, how much torque is required for the buggy? will 144oz cut it?

thanks
I think you'd be a little on the light side with 144. When I looked for advise on here and Truggy threads I found the Hi-Tech 7955tg to be highly recommended. Lots of torque and metal (titanium) gears are a must.

You can find them used from $60-$90

not sure if your aware of this "servo info site" http://www.servodatabase.com/compare...=917,1552,1676

Al
akesj1 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 12:52 AM
  #7803  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 206
Default

ive just replaced my losi's rear diff bearing cups ,gearbox then shimmed it tight did yours stop clicking? my losi has been unreliable and always requires regular maintenance after every run, any tips for getting them to run sweet?
Hotbodiesd4 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 07:50 AM
  #7804  
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
 
BlackStarRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Miramar, Florida
Posts: 1,786
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jonasm48 View Post
I need to put in a servo in my 8ight-e, how much torque is required for the buggy? will 144oz cut it?

thanks
I run the Savox 1256tg and it handles perfectly... Great servo, at a reasonable price point
BlackStarRacing is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 07:51 AM
  #7805  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
dangerwr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 2,245
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Hotbodiesd4 View Post
ive just replaced my losi's rear diff bearing cups ,gearbox then shimmed it tight did yours stop clicking? my losi has been unreliable and always requires regular maintenance after every run, any tips for getting them to run sweet?
Nope. Your only hope is to run a Hoopty Buckets Ve8.
dangerwr is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 09:12 AM
  #7806  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (8)
 
Integra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 12,486
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Hotbodiesd4 View Post
ive just replaced my losi's rear diff bearing cups ,gearbox then shimmed it tight did yours stop clicking? my losi has been unreliable and always requires regular maintenance after every run, any tips for getting them to run sweet?



Ive ran my Buggy in E form for 3+ year's and my R+P looks like brand new, Little shiny where the teeth are riding.
Integra is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 01:50 PM
  #7807  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
 
goehm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,753
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

I burned up 2-3 center diff gears over the past few weeks, and think I cleared it up with a new pinion gear. After comparing the new to the old pinion, it seems the old one was quite a bit more worn than I realized. Teeth were a bit rounded, couldn't really tell until I compared with a brand new gear.

I've got 1 qual and 1 main on it so far, so I'm not 100% certain that's the fix.

That said, what else can be done to maximize the plastic gear life span?

The space between the diff gear and the motor mount is very minimal, and the assembly doesn't seem to need shims (really no play, if I shimmed it seems it would only add friction thus heat). My motor's rotor has some play, enough that if I align the pinion and diff gear 100% I can push the pinion and have it hit the mount slightly. I could shim the motor behind the pinon, but no shims on hand, so I did dremel just a bit of material off the motor mount behind the pinion so that they don't touch.

I've also reduced brake travel/EPA on my radio and have been rolling the throttle smoother, and braking more conservatively.

Did I miss anything? I've been running the SCTE for over a year and that has the same engineering, though smaller - and have never had problems with my diff gears.

Losi pinions say '1.0 Module' on the package, and I was told that was different than Mod1, and is why I was losing my gears. Is that accurate? I run the same pinion on my SCTE with no issue, though that's a smaller center diff gear.

I do have a metal 45T on order, but hate to use that because I know that the plastic gear works. I just can't figure out why it's not working for me. Hopefully it was just the pinion.
goehm is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 07:42 PM
  #7808  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (198)
 
XXXDad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
Posts: 6,121
Trader Rating: 198 (100%+)
Unhappy I have my E losi 2+ years

Originally Posted by goehm View Post
I burned up 2-3 center diff gears over the past few weeks, and think I cleared it up with a new pinion gear. After comparing the new to the old pinion, it seems the old one was quite a bit more worn than I realized. Teeth were a bit rounded, couldn't really tell until I compared with a brand new gear.

I've got 1 qual and 1 main on it so far, so I'm not 100% certain that's the fix.

That said, what else can be done to maximize the plastic gear life span?

The space between the diff gear and the motor mount is very minimal, and the assembly doesn't seem to need shims (really no play, if I shimmed it seems it would only add friction thus heat). My motor's rotor has some play, enough that if I align the pinion and diff gear 100% I can push the pinion and have it hit the mount slightly. I could shim the motor behind the pinon, but no shims on hand, so I did dremel just a bit of material off the motor mount behind the pinion so that they don't touch.

I've also reduced brake travel/EPA on my radio and have been rolling the throttle smoother, and braking more conservatively.

Did I miss anything? I've been running the SCTE for over a year and that has the same engineering, though smaller - and have never had problems with my diff gears.

Losi pinions say '1.0 Module' on the package, and I was told that was different than Mod1, and is why I was losing my gears. Is that accurate? I run the same pinion on my SCTE with no issue, though that's a smaller center diff gear.

I do have a metal 45T on order, but hate to use that because I know that the plastic gear works. I just can't figure out why it's not working for me. Hopefully it was just the pinion.
Same thing is hapening to me. Same car I run years now. I just installed the Feroni Rear Brace... it has a little shock spring in it. I'm thinking between the extra flex and too short a screw in the Mount leads it to getting wacked out of place on a hard landing. Im gonna get a new Mod 1 Pinion and sper and add a longer screw , lock tight it in again and hope for the best. Ive never had this rate of failure with it, ive gone years without a problem. Now I cant keep it hole through a complete race.
XXXDad is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 07:58 PM
  #7809  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 32
Default

I was stripping spur gears insane bad after going a year without stripping one. I went through like 4 spur gears in 3 heats and a main. It ended up being that the plastic center diff mount had stripped out and the center diff mount was lifting up off the chassis mount screw. I replaced the plastic center diff mount and WALA! No more stripped spurs.
bsloan22 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 08:27 PM
  #7810  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
dangerwr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 2,245
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by goehm View Post
I burned up 2-3 center diff gears over the past few weeks, and think I cleared it up with a new pinion gear. After comparing the new to the old pinion, it seems the old one was quite a bit more worn than I realized. Teeth were a bit rounded, couldn't really tell until I compared with a brand new gear.

I've got 1 qual and 1 main on it so far, so I'm not 100% certain that's the fix.

That said, what else can be done to maximize the plastic gear life span?

The space between the diff gear and the motor mount is very minimal, and the assembly doesn't seem to need shims (really no play, if I shimmed it seems it would only add friction thus heat). My motor's rotor has some play, enough that if I align the pinion and diff gear 100% I can push the pinion and have it hit the mount slightly. I could shim the motor behind the pinon, but no shims on hand, so I did dremel just a bit of material off the motor mount behind the pinion so that they don't touch.

I've also reduced brake travel/EPA on my radio and have been rolling the throttle smoother, and braking more conservatively.

Did I miss anything? I've been running the SCTE for over a year and that has the same engineering, though smaller - and have never had problems with my diff gears.

Losi pinions say '1.0 Module' on the package, and I was told that was different than Mod1, and is why I was losing my gears. Is that accurate? I run the same pinion on my SCTE with no issue, though that's a smaller center diff gear.

I do have a metal 45T on order, but hate to use that because I know that the plastic gear works. I just can't figure out why it's not working for me. Hopefully it was just the pinion.
I know what works for me and will share.

1. I do not use the rear motor brace (Losi conversion)
2. I shim the diff off the motor mount
3. Shim the motor shaft (Avid sells the shims)
4. Longer screws on plastic center diff mount
5. Check for loose screws often
6. I do not mash the throttle or jam the brakes when down-siding jumps

Should be good!
dangerwr is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 08:44 PM
  #7811  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
 
goehm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,753
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the ideas guys - I'll replace the center plastic mount and use longer screws and see where that takes me. I think I have everything else covered (ordered shims yesterday too).

I've been inspecting the gears now every run and they seem to be hotter than expected so I checked to make sure something wasn't binding and creating additional heat - IE: causing it to sort of do a slow-unload over the duration of a qual/main. I haven't temped them yet to get a baseline, so not sure if this is an indication of an issue or just normal. This weekend I'll have my temp gun with me. Part of my theory is the heat could be softening the plastic leading to early failure.

Tekin 1900 is running pretty cool at 15/45 on 4S, but I might see if a 16T on our medium to large track would take temps down a bit (to see if it's over spinning).

Seems like a aluminum center diff upright would help with stripping, and maybe even some heat dissipation (heat sink). Like they have for the TEN-SCTE: http://www.kingheads.com/product_inf...8b77e7ab694fc3

Time will tell..
goehm is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 08:57 PM
  #7812  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
dangerwr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 2,245
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Well there is LOSA4444 but would only need 1/3rd of it and is pricey at $66.
dangerwr is offline  
Old 07-18-2012, 07:48 PM
  #7813  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
dangerwr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 2,245
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default CSI pistons?

Anybody running those CSI pistons? I just got a blue set . . .
dangerwr is offline  
Old 07-18-2012, 09:14 PM
  #7814  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Monteman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,279
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Ok so i tried the LOSI4415 center diff mount and it rubbed on the 44t spur.
Bought and waited for the LOSI4420 2.0 diff mount. it still rubs on the spur.


Not to mention 44/13 gearing which i ran on my last Losi 8ight 2.0 doesn't even touch on the Tekno V4 chassis...
44/15 works but the motor is all the way over and the mesh is a tad looser than ideal.
On my old one i ran 44/13 all the time and loved it. Great combo of punch and top speed for my driving style.

Should i just turn the music up and run this thing for a bit and let the rub between the cover and the spur go away the old fashioned way??

Wow that diff looks dirtier than it is when hit with a camera flash haha.
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread-2012-07-18-21.06.43.jpg   Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread-2012-07-18-21.08.49.jpg  
Monteman is offline  
Old 07-19-2012, 10:42 AM
  #7815  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
 
tony montana's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Leonardtown Md.
Posts: 6,347
Trader Rating: 76 (100%+)
Default

What pinion to use with a 1900 tekin?
tony montana is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.