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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 02-21-2012, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bjanzen View Post
Guys,

Just picked up a used Losi8ight E used from the board here....... Have been into R/C for 20+ years but have little dirt offroad experience.

Have scanned the last ten pages here but would like someone to give me some Cliff Notes version of the last three years on this car........ I know that is huge but here is what I am looking for.......

Common fixes...
Common changes....
overall suggestions for setups.....

I have found the Losi setups on the site. I have seen silver ft/ black rear springs...... Just seems like the front springs don't support well. Seems like a lot of pre-load is needed to get a ride height of 27mm. Have a set of blacks in the front to add a little extra lift. Suggestions??

I have read the rear motor mount is removed...... any other common fix?

I am currently running 44/16 with the Losi 2400k on 4s 5000mah...... is that about right?

Do most run the long Ackerman arm?

What do most do to protect their servo gears?
I know there is a servo saver but it seems like it won't protect the servo it seems sooooo stiff. Yes... I have a MG servo......

Thanks in advance....... I appreciate any help.

Barry
The Drake's setup works very well, as I just began running the E version not too long ago also. Suprisingly it handles nearly identical to the Nitro version I have raced for years, so I am extremely pleased. As previously mentioned for setups, I would start there and tweek as needed. You can use the aluminum servo saver arm to beef up that area and remove the rear motor support. Running the long ackerman. Would recommend upgrading to TLR Ti-Shock mounting posts and keep an eye on front center CVD for wear, all else is very proven hardware that works well. This car is as good as its Nitro version, so parts wear is fantastic overall.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:34 PM
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probably gonna get blasted for this but anyone run a sc body on their 8ight? just looking for some body mounts that will work with the stock towers.
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by xyzracer View Post
probably gonna get blasted for this but anyone run a sc body on their 8ight? just looking for some body mounts that will work with the stock towers.
Blasted?????? No ...... hung maybe?? Hahahaha I have no idea???? Here in Tennessee, we stay away from cross breeding....... but, what about the losi 8t body mounts in front and maybe the losi xxxsct rear shock towers?????? My best guess???????
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:22 PM
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Default Need Help PLEASE

I just bought a 8ight e 2.0. It had a few seasons on it, so I ofcourse needed to do some cleaning and replacing. First run I noticed a load whinning of sorts. So I tore it down, oiled bearings, cleand diffs, regreased, new fluid(5/5/3 as recommended checking Google), etc. Figured this would quiet it down. But no luck. Ive owned a Ve8 and D8 "e" conv. and both where a little loud as metal gears are. But this ones louder and had a diff pitch. All the gears are sharp and look great. I replaced a center front cvd as the pins were worn, Relaced servo saver, spindle carriers as they where a little worn. Cleaned and regreased all the CVDs everywhere. Any thoughs where to move next?

This is what I quoted and posted on the other Losi 8ight 2.0! thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank L
I have noticed several 2.0's making this crazy high pitched noise including mine. At 1st I thoght it was the smart diffs but one that I observed making this nose was bone stock. It does not slow it down any it's just a strange noise. The 1.0's don't do it just the 2.0's. I have no idea what it is and I can't seem to get it to go away. I know the truggy does it but I haven't driven the buggy by itself on the track yet so idk if the noise is in the buggy too. I think we are talking about the same noise. Kinda high pitched and almost turbine engine sounding. Anyone else have any input on this.

I just scored a 8ight "e" 2.0 and noticed this loud noise. Could'nt find the right words to explain it. But Im thinkin this is the same noise thats being decribed above. It gets louder as I accelerate. Its high pitched. I tore everything down. All bearings are smooth, gears are sharp, just put fresh grease, dill fluid, etc. Still there. I bought it used, so theres some use. I replaced the worn carriers, servo saver and the worn center CVD. But still there. Any help would be great. I newer to 1/8s. Ive had a Ve8 and D8 "e conversion". I know metal spurs are a bit loud, but this doesnt sound right.
Thoughts, opinions? I read a few post past the above and didnt see any answers. Help!!!
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Old 02-22-2012, 03:34 AM
  #6935  
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Originally Posted by RCaddict0 View Post
I just bought a 8ight e 2.0. It had a few seasons on it, so I ofcourse needed to do some cleaning and replacing. First run I noticed a load whinning of sorts. So I tore it down, oiled bearings, cleand diffs, regreased, new fluid(5/5/3 as recommended checking Google), etc. Figured this would quiet it down. But no luck. Ive owned a Ve8 and D8 "e" conv. and both where a little loud as metal gears are. But this ones louder and had a diff pitch. All the gears are sharp and look great. I replaced a center front cvd as the pins were worn, Relaced servo saver, spindle carriers as they where a little worn. Cleaned and regreased all the CVDs everywhere. Any thoughs where to move next?

This is what I quoted and posted on the other Losi 8ight 2.0! thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank L
I have noticed several 2.0's making this crazy high pitched noise including mine. At 1st I thoght it was the smart diffs but one that I observed making this nose was bone stock. It does not slow it down any it's just a strange noise. The 1.0's don't do it just the 2.0's. I have no idea what it is and I can't seem to get it to go away. I know the truggy does it but I haven't driven the buggy by itself on the track yet so idk if the noise is in the buggy too. I think we are talking about the same noise. Kinda high pitched and almost turbine engine sounding. Anyone else have any input on this.

I just scored a 8ight "e" 2.0 and noticed this loud noise. Could'nt find the right words to explain it. But Im thinkin this is the same noise thats being decribed above. It gets louder as I accelerate. Its high pitched. I tore everything down. All bearings are smooth, gears are sharp, just put fresh grease, dill fluid, etc. Still there. I bought it used, so theres some use. I replaced the worn carriers, servo saver and the worn center CVD. But still there. Any help would be great. I newer to 1/8s. Ive had a Ve8 and D8 "e conversion". I know metal spurs are a bit loud, but this doesnt sound right.
Thoughts, opinions? I read a few post past the above and didnt see any answers. Help!!!
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I think that is what a jet with wheels sounds like.
My and all others at tracks r that way 2.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:02 AM
  #6936  
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Originally Posted by rangerjkb View Post
The Drake's setup works very well, as I just began running the E version not too long ago also. Suprisingly it handles nearly identical to the Nitro version I have raced for years, so I am extremely pleased. As previously mentioned for setups, I would start there and tweek as needed. You can use the aluminum servo saver arm to beef up that area and remove the rear motor support. Running the long ackerman. Would recommend upgrading to TLR Ti-Shock mounting posts and keep an eye on front center CVD for wear, all else is very proven hardware that works well. This car is as good as its Nitro version, so parts wear is fantastic overall.
Question, why remove the rear motor support?
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Camp-Dog View Post
Question, why remove the rear motor support?
The chassis will flex and hit the motor and then will strip the plastic spur. Take I off young skywalker!!!!!!! And the force will be with u!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Camp-Dog View Post
Question, why remove the rear motor support?
In my case (RX8 with a 1900Kv T8) the plastic motor support simply wouldn't fit so i had not choice but to leave it off.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rangerjkb View Post
The Drake's setup works very well, as I just began running the E version not too long ago also. Suprisingly it handles nearly identical to the Nitro version I have raced for years, so I am extremely pleased. As previously mentioned for setups, I would start there and tweek as needed. You can use the aluminum servo saver arm to beef up that area and remove the rear motor support. Running the long ackerman. Would recommend upgrading to TLR Ti-Shock mounting posts and keep an eye on front center CVD for wear, all else is very proven hardware that works well. This car is as good as its Nitro version, so parts wear is fantastic overall.

Thanks for the help........ Have spent all week going through this car for a big race this weekend. Couldn't believe the crazy things i found....... Several links weren't symmetrical! The setup was way off standard and the front left arm had a extra spacer that made it bind. The shocks had mud for fluid and the diffs weren't much better! Have basically re-built the car. I put it back to Adam Drakes standard setup save for two changes......did 10/7/3 for diff lube...... And did Red ft/ Green rear springs. Was looking for plenty of steering with a touch of push on entry...... I am a touring car guy ;-)

IF I am way off.... Let me know before this weekend. I am not wanting to do oil changes at the track.........
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77 View Post
The chassis will flex and hit the motor and then will strip the plastic spur. Take I off young skywalker!!!!!!! And the force will be with u!!!!!!!!
I stripped that plastic spur a way long time ago now I see why.

Yes Master...

Originally Posted by AbstractZen View Post
In my case (RX8 with a 1900Kv T8) the plastic motor support simply wouldn't fit so i had not choice but to leave it off.
I see thx.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bjanzen View Post
Thanks for the help........ Have spent all week going through this car for a big race this weekend. Couldn't believe the crazy things i found....... Several links weren't symmetrical! The setup was way off standard and the front left arm had a extra spacer that made it bind. The shocks had mud for fluid and the diffs weren't much better! Have basically re-built the car. I put it back to Adam Drakes standard setup save for two changes......did 10/7/3 for diff lube...... And did Red ft/ Green rear springs. Was looking for plenty of steering with a touch of push on entry...... I am a touring car guy ;-)

IF I am way off.... Let me know before this weekend. I am not wanting to do oil changes at the track.........
I run on an indoor track so the tight hair pins with 10k up front would lose low speed steering. Also runing a 4s lipo in our kits is much heavier than nitro set up so red spring up front would seam to me to be very light. I go back and forth between silvers and green's in front and Black and silvers in rear.

Good luck on your race!
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Old 02-22-2012, 03:23 PM
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Thanks guys! lol
No, really...An thoughts or help? I read the rear gear box inserts, gear box wears. I was thinking maybe replace them and shim the diff.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RCaddict0 View Post
Thanks guys! lol
No, really...An thoughts or help? I read the rear gear box inserts, gear box wears. I was thinking maybe replace them and shim the diff.
Shim (Gear Box Shims: LOSA4452) Ring and Pinion, so there's a small tick of play after assembly. You can take away any significant space/play a pinion gear has into the gear box, by adjusting mounting position of the CVD cup on the pinion shaft. Haven't had a gear box or inserts wear out and have found them to be very durable (other than over tightening chassis mounting screws). Once you have a good one to start with, I think you'll be pleased. Hope this helps answer your question and assists you enjoying racing your 8 2.0
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:22 PM
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i am looking to sell my losi 8ight e2.0 4wd 1/8 scale buggy. my question is how much do they go for as a artr?
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Camp-Dog View Post
I run on an indoor track so the tight hair pins with 10k up front would lose low speed steering. Also runing a 4s lipo in our kits is much heavier than nitro set up so red spring up front would seam to me to be very light. I go back and forth between silvers and green's in front and Black and silvers in rear.

Good luck on your race!
thanks for the help..... i went and switched out the front diff fluid to 5k based on your recommedations..... made sense. Now i am at 5/7/3k.

Will try some different springs at the track and talk to some of the local guys. I just hope it is close to setup. Always makes things more enjoyable if I dont have to fight setup all day. Hopefully I can get some practice in but we have rain Friday and Sat qualifying starts at 9am...... I will have fun no matter what. Getting too old to get frustrated over the little things.....
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