rangerjkb

iTrader: (41)

King...too funny. No problems keeping plastic spur gears together, recommend checking pinion-spur spacing vs. chassis flex.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I am sure you are very fast too.

GaRsNoW

iTrader: (25)

Quick question - I want to get a back up pair of rear shocks, and I see some on eBay. Whats the difference between the RTR and Race shocks?

Thanks

krash'um

iTrader: (4)

I believe the difference is the race roller shocks comes with Tini coated shafts and alluminum shock caps.

GaRsNoW

iTrader: (25)

Hmm, I'm not worried about the shock caps as I can re-use mine, but the upgraded shafts must be worth it.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

The plastic shock caps are prone to failure--at least on our tracks here in CO.

dfsc10

iTrader: (22)

ive had this problem but switched to a tekin motor/esc becasue the tekin motors allow you to use the 4mm screws and they are stronger than the 3mm. but i switched back to my castle setup due to some things. i love my castle 2200 setup i have it on 80% throttle. what screws are you using for the motor mount? are they counter sunk? i was not using counter sunk screws the first round i had my castle motor in and i couldnt even last a race! then i tried the castle motor again using 3x10mm counter sunk screws and it works perfect. the last time i stripped a spur was when i cased a jump trying to clear a quad- it was my fault not the car! try this and see if it helps, also are you running that black plastic motor brace? if so take it and throw it as far are you can.

MattP

iTrader: (440)

Why do you say to remove the plastic rear motor brace.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I have always ran the plastic but would be curious if there was an option. Who makes an aluminum mount?

mdhyams

iTrader: (15)

I am new to the 8e. Can someone give me a good shock and diff starting point.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

This might be a good place to start. Many have liked it . . .

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...andard2011.pdf

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Forces the motor to strip spurs due to chassis flex. No harm will come with removing it.

Ridley

iTrader: (13)

Question on the 10* inclined spindles. For those of you running them, where did you see the biggest advantages or drawbacks?

Would be nice to sample these for the plastic part prices, but for 100 bones, I think I better ask for some opinions

I'm looking for a little more responsiveness and sweeper speed.

Thanks

old&slow

iTrader: (2)

If you run the rear plastic motor support from the stock losi converssion it will strip the spur and put the pinion into the motor mount as the tf chassis flexes. The support does not allow the motor to have enough room to "float " as the chassis flexes. The plastic support sits so tight to chassis and can that it causes the rear of the motor can to bind against chassis and cause lift that will flex the diff supprt / motor mount and the pinion will rub motor mount first , then cause the screws to loosen up from the bind and release cycle and eventuallykill spur and or pinion either through gradual wear due to missaligmnet of pinion to spur during these high flex situations or to instanly strip out when the mount finally works it self loose.

known issue for a while , dont know why losi does not save themselves the money of making em and save those money who use them and continue to replace spurs and pinions.

Always go look at the loud losis running metal spurs at the track, most of em will have the support in place still and will complain about eating pinions and spurs still. Chewing on em every flex , just takes the metal a bit longer to wear out.

I am a CRAPPY driver and come down from mid air corrections with a finger full of throttle and still think I can run run wot throught the gnarly whoop sections and have been running plastic spurs in 8ight with a mmm/ 2650 on 4s and on a tekno v4 8ight with a RX/8 ballistic 8 1900 motor on 4s with no problems for more than a yr now on each spur and pinion with only once chewing up a spur when I was too light on the lock tite on one of the motor screws after a rebuild.

O&S

LarryC

Guys, forgive me for not reading this entire thread, and I've tried some searchs here but they didn't answer my question. I recently bought a roller locally and I'm working on tearing it down to the frame to inspect everything.

One thing that has me concerned is the amount of lash between the front and rear diffs. Lash may not be the best word here but I can rotate the spur gear 90* before the wheels start to move. Is this normal or do I have worn and or broken parts? Any suggestions or tips to rebuilding diffs would be appreciated.