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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 08-26-2011, 12:33 PM
  #6256  
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Originally Posted by Bodido View Post
I really believe putting a heatsink on a Tekin motor is asking for trouble. The can is designed as a heatsink. If you put a heatsink on top of that it will only make contact with the tops of the Tekin fins, which just isn't enough surface area to transfer heat away from the can. It would trap more heat than it would dissipate. If you were to temp it at the end of the run the additional heatsink would be relatively cool, but the can and rotor hidden underneath would be scorching.

Now, if someone were to chuck the Tekin can up in a lathe and remove the fins, then add a badass larger heatsink to it, that would be effective.

With all that said, Gear the motor properly, tune the esc properly, and make sure there is no drivetrain issues, and most all temp issues disappear.
Or you could just use a fan on the motor. What I've done to mine, is tie it up with cable ties around the motor can and connect to ur receiver for power. I run a 2000kV motor with cooling fins as well and in high summer motor temps ranged from 70-80C. With the fan they came down to 40-50C mark. A very big difference.
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:19 AM
  #6257  
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
O-ring's till they are torn or wear out the center's and the blue gaskets you can re use till they tear or you just want to replace em.
Dang. I was replacing them after every race weekend. Thanks integra!! Now I don't have to order 5 packs at a time lol
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
Dang. I was replacing them after every race weekend. Thanks integra!! Now I don't have to order 5 packs at a time lol
Haha! I replace them every time I rebuild the diffs--usually every other race day.
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Old 08-27-2011, 07:51 PM
  #6259  
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
Dang. I was replacing them after every race weekend. Thanks integra!! Now I don't have to order 5 packs at a time lol
Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
Haha! I replace them every time I rebuild the diffs--usually every other race day.


If you guys want a large quantity of O-rings for cheap, Check out McMaster

2.89$ for 100 if i remember
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:35 AM
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I was reading a few pages back that shock oil too light in the front can cause the nose to dive. Any other reason that can cause the front to come down faster like heavy battery shifting or drag brake? All oils and bearings are fresh. Running 5s Losi battery, 10% drag brake, 35wt front and 32.5wt rear with sliver green springs and I'm getting too much of a dive. Don't have a field link yet so once I'm at practice with a castle link setting I'm stuck with it till I get home to run the link again. What's a good basic setting on the link with a balance of power, speed, and run time? And with torq limiting on this motor with the link should it be at default or what's a good number for the buggy? Same goes for punch control on the link? Need more insight with the settings on link. This sensor lower kv motor is harder to set up right then my overpowered castle 2200kv motor. Only have MMM for both motors and the 2200 is set up fine on my truggy but can't seem to find a good set up for my buggy. Was running my truggy 13p but now have 15,16 and 18. Willing to try what every you guys think is best for nxt practice. Just not having any luck with my buggy. Thanks
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:10 PM
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How do you guys go about keeping the body from breaking at the weak spot in the front, by the front body post? I know that I need practice racing but Ive broke 2 body's now in the same spot. I've got the rear hole elongated and everything. Thanks.
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
How do you guys go about keeping the body from breaking at the weak spot in the front, by the front body post? I know that I need practice racing but Ive broke 2 body's now in the same spot. I've got the rear hole elongated and everything. Thanks.
A lot of guys will remove the body posts and use velcro to attach the body along the chassis guards. I like to use Shoe Goo in strategic ares to reinforce the body but you can use several different materials. Hope this helps!
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
How do you guys go about keeping the body from breaking at the weak spot in the front, by the front body post? I know that I need practice racing but Ive broke 2 body's now in the same spot. I've got the rear hole elongated and everything. Thanks.


This is also an Option.



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Old 08-28-2011, 09:22 PM
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I'm thinking about picking up a 8ight-e for the upcoming winter indoor season. Are there any "must have" durability upgrades for the car? Also, what is the cheapest place online to pick up the 8ight-e? I see Ultimate has it for $480 shipped.
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Old 08-28-2011, 10:18 PM
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Integra- what is the orange spring thing you are using? I just run velcro with no post. Makes changing the battery faster. I did it for my truggy but works a lot better on the buggy.

Kcorba- personally I like the nitro roller converted with the Losi Ekit. I love the option of still running nitro. I do plan on buying another roller for the tekno chassis. Wanna try the non direct drive line with servo brakes that most love. Guess it all depends on you and your budget and if you just want a electric base car. Either way you will be happy with the Losi.
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Old 08-28-2011, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Titian2010 View Post
Integra- what is the orange spring thing you are using? I just run velcro with no post. Makes changing the battery faster. I did it for my truggy but works a lot better on the buggy.
its fuel tubing under the post.
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:43 AM
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ok guys just about to bit the bullet and buy 1 of these buggy's

what servo do you reccommend ? i have spektrum in all my SCT do they make 1 that will handle a 1/8th buggy?

also going to run on 4s lipos is the RX8 and 1900kv the best package for me ?

thanks for the advice guys looking forward to joining the 1/8th racing as well
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:38 AM
  #6268  
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Originally Posted by Titian2010 View Post
I was reading a few pages back that shock oil too light in the front can cause the nose to dive. Any other reason that can cause the front to come down faster like heavy battery shifting or drag brake? All oils and bearings are fresh. Running 5s Losi battery, 10% drag brake, 35wt front and 32.5wt rear with sliver green springs and I'm getting too much of a dive. Don't have a field link yet so once I'm at practice with a castle link setting I'm stuck with it till I get home to run the link again. What's a good basic setting on the link with a balance of power, speed, and run time? And with torq limiting on this motor with the link should it be at default or what's a good number for the buggy? Same goes for punch control on the link? Need more insight with the settings on link. This sensor lower kv motor is harder to set up right then my overpowered castle 2200kv motor. Only have MMM for both motors and the 2200 is set up fine on my truggy but can't seem to find a good set up for my buggy. Was running my truggy 13p but now have 15,16 and 18. Willing to try what every you guys think is best for nxt practice. Just not having any luck with my buggy. Thanks
I had this problem too. As you said and a lot of other guys I think, your front shocks are too soft. This happens because your shocks dont have time to fully react before the car is in the air and remain in the sinking stage when you go off. Physically the momentum vector tries to stay in a horizontal line, whereas with one of the below, the vector angle will change more rapidly.
3 things you can do.

1. thicken your oils
2. or stiffen your springs
3. or use smaller pistons
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Old 08-29-2011, 06:59 AM
  #6269  
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Originally Posted by Titian2010 View Post
I was reading a few pages back that shock oil too light in the front can cause the nose to dive. Any other reason that can cause the front to come down faster like heavy battery shifting or drag brake? All oils and bearings are fresh. Running 5s Losi battery, 10% drag brake, 35wt front and 32.5wt rear with sliver green springs and I'm getting too much of a dive. Don't have a field link yet so once I'm at practice with a castle link setting I'm stuck with it till I get home to run the link again. What's a good basic setting on the link with a balance of power, speed, and run time? And with torq limiting on this motor with the link should it be at default or what's a good number for the buggy? Same goes for punch control on the link? Need more insight with the settings on link. This sensor lower kv motor is harder to set up right then my overpowered castle 2200kv motor. Only have MMM for both motors and the 2200 is set up fine on my truggy but can't seem to find a good set up for my buggy. Was running my truggy 13p but now have 15,16 and 18. Willing to try what every you guys think is best for nxt practice. Just not having any luck with my buggy. Thanks
Absolutely make sure that your battery is not shifting. I used to just use the straps, but found that this was not enough. Because there was extra room in the radio tray. So I filled this room up the and now when I have to wedge the battery into the tray, but it does not move and the car is very consistent.
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:21 AM
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I posted this in another section but got no love........ What do you guys think:

I'm running a Mamba Monster and 2200kv motor in my 8ight E. I'm pretty sure the speed control got so hot it shut off during the main last night. It stopped on the track (when I was in the friggin lead after about 10 minutes into a 12 min main) and I thought I had broken something so I just gave up. A few minutes later It worked just fine. After the races, I ran another battery and it did the same thing. My motor has always run hot (175+ and I've seen 200). I temped the speed control after my test run and it was at 185.
Why the heck am I running so hot? I have a 45 tooth spur and I have tried anywhere from a 12 tooth pinion to a 16, all with similar results. The best results I had was with a bigger pinion and dialed back to about 80% throttle EPA.
I am in Phoenix and its hot as balls out here, but still......200/185 seems excessive. Its technically a truggy motor so I would think it would run nice and cool in a buggy. Help!!!!

Ps....running on 4S power
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