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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 11-17-2008, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Miller_Time View Post
Found it, thanks

Anyone have any comments on the low punch when the buggy is cold? Wondering if it's something in my setup or just a part of the design..
was it cold outside? my guess is your battery being below 60 degrees is probably why your punch is so low at first, lipos have an ideal maximum operating temp too.
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:15 PM
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Electric motors don't need to warm up. And I've never heard of cold diffs taking power away. They may have a different driving characteristic till they heat up but they don't take power away. You might have someone take a look at it before you run it again so you don't end up smoking a motor or esc.
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by big greg View Post
was it cold outside? my guess is your battery being below 60 degrees is probably why your punch is so low at first, lipos have an ideal maximum operating temp too.
+1

Lipos get sluggish when they are cold as the chemical reaction can't happen as quickly which shows up as low punch. Racing up here in michigan indoors is proof enough...on the track after my rc gear has been in my trunk in 30 degree whether they are flat the first couple minutes. Since finding this out I now keep my cars (with the batteries in them) in the back seat so they are up to temp when I hit the track for practice.
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Old 11-17-2008, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Miller_Time View Post
Do you mean on the spur gear?

We had 8 entries in the electric 1/8 buggy class. 6 of them were Losi 8ight-E kits, one was an 8ight conversion that just had a Losi system installed before today, and one lonely MBX6. We had at least two locals that were planning to show and didn't after rain moved us from Saturday to Sunday.. Charlotte is picking up on e-8 buggies pretty well.

How are the e-8ights holding up under racing conditions? Are there any things we should be on the lookout for?
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by big greg View Post
was it cold outside? my guess is your battery being below 60 degrees is probably why your punch is so low at first, lipos have an ideal maximum operating temp too.
You know it never ocurred to me but I bet that was it. It was the coldest day I've raced outdoors in awhile - around 50F. Thanks for the tip on that one!


Originally Posted by wfdfiremedic View Post
How are the e-8ights holding up under racing conditions? Are there any things we should be on the lookout for?
A few things I've noticed, no particular order:

- Go over all the screws before each run. In particular the lower shock mount screws and steering link rod ends.
- Use loctite on any metal to metal fastners. Grub screw on the pinion, two screws that mount the motor to the plate, and the top screw that holds the motor plate on the mount in particular. A lot of vibrations inside this thing and you need it.
- Rear dogbone can pop out when the chassis flexes. This was mentioned on the previous page with a possible fix. This happened to three of the seven people racing 8ight-Es yesterday.
- Change the servo arm with the plastic adapter out for a solid plastic or metal servo arm. The adapter will strip very easily under impact.
- If you plan to use the stock wheels/tires you'll want to reglue them first.

That's all that comes immediately to mind. It's been a bit of an experience in ironing out the bugs, but I wouldn't say it's been more than any other similar RC. Most of those items are just trying to get it as bullet proof as possible.. I've entered three races with it so far and yesterday was the first time I finished a main. After the first two weekends I've become a bit fanatical about checking every last item before each round.
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:46 PM
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If you put set screws in the bottom of the A arm the lower shock mount screws will not back out.

put CVD condoms on the center CVD's and lock tite the servo saver nut and an aluminium upper servo saver http://www.tiltedrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=1696
http://www.tiltedrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=1592
and no pop outer rod/balls for the steering
http://www.tiltedrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3294
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Old 11-17-2008, 05:10 PM
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Wow look at that.. there are holes for set screws on the underside of the a arms! Thanks for pointing that out, never noticed it.

Good point on the other two items as well.
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Old 11-17-2008, 05:33 PM
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You can also put screws in the hole on the arm that you aren't using. They will overlap the shock screw and make it more difficult to back out. I haven't had any luck depending on the set screw in the bottom of the arm.
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Old 11-17-2008, 05:46 PM
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^^^ Thanks for all the above tips!!
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Old 11-17-2008, 06:18 PM
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You need the New 2.0 Screw's to use with the set screw from the bottom of the arm.....the set screw's without the new screws will bottom out too fast and not have enough Bite to actually hold the screw in place.....the new screw's however....that wont be possible with the notch cut into it....here's a pic

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Old 11-17-2008, 06:52 PM
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That's what they say but I've got a converted 2.0 and it did the same thing. The only real trouble free solution is to get the reverse thread screws from Xray for the left rear and right front.
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by edfmaniac View Post
That's what they say but I've got a converted 2.0 and it did the same thing. The only real trouble free solution is to get the reverse thread screws from Xray for the left rear and right front.

Sure they backed out....
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:03 AM
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The M2C rear outer hinge pins are a good idea too.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16263
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by badassrevo View Post
The M2C rear outer hinge pins are a good idea too.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16263

the Losi's are 1/2 the price....and have Like threads on both ends unlike the M2C...which imo needs more thread on the ends for dirt guards.
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
the Losi's are 1/2 the price....and have Like threads on both ends unlike the M2C...which imo needs more thread on the ends for dirt guards.
What is the p/n for the 2.0 outer rear hinge pins? Do you have a link?
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