dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Honestly, I am not sure the difference between the 12* and 10* blocks. I have always understood the 10* to be ideal for the EP. Before I got the 10* blocks I would toe out about 3* to settle the buggy down as it makes it less twitchy in my experience.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

If I remember correctly the 1.0 spring was a bit softer. It might be that Losi reverted back to the original spring so am not sure if there are 2 different P/N's any longer. I usually thread mine so that only a single thread is exposed below the tensioner. I have never had any problems with these to be honest with you. I am not sure what the correct setting might be aside from what the manual might suggest . . .

GO-RIDE.com

iTrader: (1)

If I remember correctly AD said he mostly uses the 10* inclines, but goes to the 12* on really high speed tracks or when the track is really blown out. Seems like for most situations the 10* are pretty good.

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

I always ran the opposite. More toe out = more entry steering (twitchy) more toe in better stability. Thanks though for the other info. I will have to see if anyone is selling a used pair.........

john stu

iTrader: (21)

so has this happened to anybody else? ive never broken the stock hinge pin brace but managed to see the pin going through the plastic cover a couple of times and i figured it was only a matter of time before i didnt catch it in time and i break the stock aluminum brace from the pin falling one one end,so i figure before i dnf i'll just bite the bullet and buy the losa1754 front adjustable hinge pin braces (made sure to get the new style ones that caputure the pins)................and in the very first race i crash hit the pipe and the hinge pin blows right through the plastic insert and it breaks right through the back of the aluminum brace and i DNF i guess i can still use the brace if i put n a new insert it will just be like the older ones with the whole going through it lol

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Nah, I do not think so. Of course I could be wrong but more toe out up front seems to alleviate some of the twitch in the buggy for me. I have tried this at the advice of some pros in the area and I am a believer!

Teambcw

iTrader: (28)

Hey Danger.. I currently have the 2650 and a MM esc. I was able to drive a guys losi that supposedly had the same setup as mine... indoor clay setup... The only difference was he had a RX8 and a tekin 1900. I felt like his car was way more planted. I really want that same feel but do know if it was something else. I run 3s and he runs 4s on his. Also I notice that you have a castle esc and a tekin 1900, How dies it feel compared to it being run by a censored esc? thanks for any help you can give.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I simply run this combo since both were given some award a while back. I guess these were "motor of the year" and "ESC of the year" according to some magazine and work quite well together in my opinion. I have drove others RX8 combos and did notice that at VERY low speeds any hint of cogging was gone in sensored mode. Other than that I did not notice any difference. Castle will claim that a sensorless setup is more efficient. How much I dunno? I have never seen any real data at this point . . .

The setup I use is incredibly smooth on a 60C 4S with Punch Control set to 70%. I really like it and can run pack after pack on practice days. My only complaint is that I had to get really creative to keep the ESC strapped down well enough the case does not fly apart. Cheers!

RacerX20

iTrader: (9)

What do you mean by "planted"?

A lower kv motor like 2200kv and below is more controllable and has more useable power on a track. I run the RX8 with the Tekin 1900kv and it is SUPER smooth at slow speeds. I can literally drive at 2 inches per second, no cogging what so ever. But cogging IMO should not be an issue on some tracks. As long and you're not having to really slow down for some corners, even a sensorless set up should be smooth enough. It's true that sensorless is more efficient but the RX8 in only in sensored mode at low speeds.

-Tony

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I think it is because he was running a lighter 3S pack . . .

RacerX20

iTrader: (9)

hmmm...
I'm not a committed RC "racer" by any means, contrary to what my username might imply, (It refers to the band RacerX, lol) but isn't it more ideal to have a lighter car? Wouldn't a lighter car handle better and perform better overall? Runtimes would certainly be better too.

It's just funny because I see some guys lighten their kit by getting carbon fiber parts and buying titanium hardware, and then I see other guys who add weight to their car and run heavier motors ect.
I don't get it.

-Tony

Teambcw

iTrader: (28)

His car felt like it was on rails, mine was not really loose, just not the same level as his. We both ran the same oils and everything. I just wonder if it came down to his 4s rx8 1900 and my 3s 2650 MMM.

Danger, do you know if it is as smooth without it being censored?

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Yeah. My EP weighs around 8lbs and have been looking at ways to shave it down. I do a lot of the Ti pieces and other little secrets. I actually like the way it is planted vs. the Nitro counter part. I really think keeping around 8lbs and no more is good. I guess a Truggy is around 9lbs and and a Nitro buggy is around 7lbs. I think a planted buggy is more predictable at higher speeds. But I still like to save a few grams where I can . . .

BTW, I taught Billy Sheehan how to play bass!

RacerX20

iTrader: (9)

Oh is that right?
Well what a coincidence, I taught Paul Gilbert how to play guitar.

-Tony

Teambcw

iTrader: (28)

His car felt like it was on rails, mine was not really loose, just not the same level as his. We both ran the same oils and everything. I just wonder if it came down to his 4s rx8 1900 and my 3s 2650 MMM.

Danger, do you know if it is as smooth without it being censored?