Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

I didn't solder the mtoor. But it has worked perfectly, the motor has a lot of power and is very cool.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

If you have been loosing fluid your car would droop badly and feel very flat. Your chassis would drag quite a bit. There are a number of things to examine if you are breaking loose in the corners. Casper & Integra could probably provide you a list but sounds like the rear might be too stiff.

skyler hays

iTrader: (12)

just ocnverted and my nitro body doesnt quite fit. is the E body taller in the rear? also you guys like the losi body, j concepts?

thanks.

GO-RIDE.com

iTrader: (1)

The E body has lots of clearance for tall lipos.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

IF you blow out a bladder without the vented shocks the shock should not feel drastically different and you should be able to finish a race. If you have vented shocks and blow a bladder and loose all the oil (what a mess by the way!) the car will be very hard to handle.

Is it loose on power or off power?

What setup you running?

KyJoe340

iTrader: (1)

Drake setup. Tried going back to green rear springs and thinner rear swaybar, but no help. Others at my track are running the same setup and their car is hooked. My 2.0 nitro was hooked with this setup at our track, I'm thinking the blown shock bladders might be the problem. Basically just too much movement in the rear of the car, makes it hard to drive. Our track is smooth clay with medium to high bite and a few big jumps. I might try 5-5-1 or 7-7-2 next.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

how is your front center shaft. Is the pin worn bad? If so I would look into replaceing it. If the outdrives are worn look into replacing them with the lightened ones. They are harder and last forever! This car is pretty senesitive to this part wearing. One of the very few wear parts on the car.

Rebuild the shocks and see if that helps before makeing diff changes. That is my recommendation if others have there cars working well at your track with that setup and then make some adjustments.

KyJoe340

iTrader: (1)

The shafts aren't worn, only about 4 races on the car. I will rebuild the shocks with new bladders and try that first before making any other changes. I'm going to put very little rebound in the shock because our track is smooth, no rough of choppy sections.

air8

iTrader: (7)

What is a good starting setup for a converted nitro car. Indoor super high bite track. The car is 8lbs 3oz (3707g.) I plan to look through the Losi setup sheets later tonight.

racerx1920

iTrader: (215)

anyone have a good setup for a indoor clay, hardpacked, smooth ,med bite

iThinman

I have a question on my 8T which is probably best asked here.

I'm getting ready to order a bunch of King Headz parts but I've never really been able to grasp, or find a good explanation of, the effects of the different front and rear hinge pin braces and pivot braces.

Could somebody please give me a readers digest explanation of these? . Also, if you could recommend which items i would need to match the stock setup and also which you would recommend for a larger outdoor hard pack setup (NorCal hobbies in case your familiar with the track).

Much appreciated!

GO-RIDE.com

iTrader: (1)

Our indoor track is how you describe, but varies from med to high bite. As usual the most important setup is the right tires and foams for your track. I'm loving JConcepts BarCodes, Gold compound, JC Blue foams (come with tires) and I use both ZipFree and Sticky Fingers tire treatment depending on traction.

As for setup I really like the Drake 2011 setup with a few small changes depending on driving style. The changes I make are:

1. Front Smart Diff setup with 2-20 springs and 2-25 springs. I only use this on the indoor track and it is amazing, but may have too much steering for some. It's a little sensitive coming off the straights, but I can pass anyone (1/10 buggys too) by turning under them. It also allows me to over shoot a corner and gas it hard. The car will pull out very well with the locked front diff.

2. I run the short Ackerman when the track has a lot of 180s around a pipe or cone. This further allows for tight turns and passing.

3. To smooth out the aggressive turning setup I do the following 2 things.
a. 2.5 front sway, 2.3 rear (when traction is low then 2.3 front)
b. Turn down the steering rate on my radio. I like -15%. This takes the twitch out, but still allows super sharp turning when you crank the wheel.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

This should get you started.


http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source...YuBeLA&cad=rja

air8

iTrader: (7)

I love that manual. I Use it everytime I race.

iThinman

Yes, that's helps a lot, thanks again.