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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 01-24-2011, 03:33 PM
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I didn't solder the mtoor. But it has worked perfectly, the motor has a lot of power and is very cool.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by KyJoe340 View Post
My 8ight has been real loose in the corners, the ripped shock bladders might be the problem. I was looking at everything else, atleast with the vented caps you know for sure where the problem is when it starts shooting oil out the hole.
If you have been loosing fluid your car would droop badly and feel very flat. Your chassis would drag quite a bit. There are a number of things to examine if you are breaking loose in the corners. Casper & Integra could probably provide you a list but sounds like the rear might be too stiff.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:11 AM
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just ocnverted and my nitro body doesnt quite fit. is the E body taller in the rear? also you guys like the losi body, j concepts?

thanks.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:50 AM
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The E body has lots of clearance for tall lipos.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:33 AM
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IF you blow out a bladder without the vented shocks the shock should not feel drastically different and you should be able to finish a race. If you have vented shocks and blow a bladder and loose all the oil (what a mess by the way!) the car will be very hard to handle.

Is it loose on power or off power?

What setup you running?
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:40 AM
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Drake setup. Tried going back to green rear springs and thinner rear swaybar, but no help. Others at my track are running the same setup and their car is hooked. My 2.0 nitro was hooked with this setup at our track, I'm thinking the blown shock bladders might be the problem. Basically just too much movement in the rear of the car, makes it hard to drive. Our track is smooth clay with medium to high bite and a few big jumps. I might try 5-5-1 or 7-7-2 next.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:53 AM
  #5497  
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how is your front center shaft. Is the pin worn bad? If so I would look into replaceing it. If the outdrives are worn look into replacing them with the lightened ones. They are harder and last forever! This car is pretty senesitive to this part wearing. One of the very few wear parts on the car.

Rebuild the shocks and see if that helps before makeing diff changes. That is my recommendation if others have there cars working well at your track with that setup and then make some adjustments.
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:11 PM
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The shafts aren't worn, only about 4 races on the car. I will rebuild the shocks with new bladders and try that first before making any other changes. I'm going to put very little rebound in the shock because our track is smooth, no rough of choppy sections.

Last edited by KyJoe340; 01-26-2011 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:13 PM
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What is a good starting setup for a converted nitro car. Indoor super high bite track. The car is 8lbs 3oz (3707g.) I plan to look through the Losi setup sheets later tonight.
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:36 AM
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anyone have a good setup for a indoor clay, hardpacked, smooth ,med bite
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:54 AM
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I have a question on my 8T which is probably best asked here.

I'm getting ready to order a bunch of King Headz parts but I've never really been able to grasp, or find a good explanation of, the effects of the different front and rear hinge pin braces and pivot braces.

Could somebody please give me a readers digest explanation of these? . Also, if you could recommend which items i would need to match the stock setup and also which you would recommend for a larger outdoor hard pack setup (NorCal hobbies in case your familiar with the track).

Much appreciated!
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by racerx1920 View Post
anyone have a good setup for a indoor clay, hardpacked, smooth ,med bite
Our indoor track is how you describe, but varies from med to high bite. As usual the most important setup is the right tires and foams for your track. I'm loving JConcepts BarCodes, Gold compound, JC Blue foams (come with tires) and I use both ZipFree and Sticky Fingers tire treatment depending on traction.

As for setup I really like the Drake 2011 setup with a few small changes depending on driving style. The changes I make are:

1. Front Smart Diff setup with 2-20 springs and 2-25 springs. I only use this on the indoor track and it is amazing, but may have too much steering for some. It's a little sensitive coming off the straights, but I can pass anyone (1/10 buggys too) by turning under them. It also allows me to over shoot a corner and gas it hard. The car will pull out very well with the locked front diff.

2. I run the short Ackerman when the track has a lot of 180s around a pipe or cone. This further allows for tight turns and passing.

3. To smooth out the aggressive turning setup I do the following 2 things.
a. 2.5 front sway, 2.3 rear (when traction is low then 2.3 front)
b. Turn down the steering rate on my radio. I like -15%. This takes the twitch out, but still allows super sharp turning when you crank the wheel.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:31 AM
  #5503  
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Originally Posted by iThinman View Post
I have a question on my 8T which is probably best asked here.

I'm getting ready to order a bunch of King Headz parts but I've never really been able to grasp, or find a good explanation of, the effects of the different front and rear hinge pin braces and pivot braces.

Could somebody please give me a readers digest explanation of these? . Also, if you could recommend which items i would need to match the stock setup and also which you would recommend for a larger outdoor hard pack setup (NorCal hobbies in case your familiar with the track).

Much appreciated!


This should get you started.


http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source...YuBeLA&cad=rja
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:34 AM
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I love that manual. I Use it everytime I race.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:39 AM
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Yes, that's helps a lot, thanks again.
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