gtsakiris

iTrader: (21)

1.0 > 2.0 up grade. Hey all I am upgrading my 8B chassis to the 2.0 verison finally. What are the other items I need to upgrade in order to have a full 2.0 setup. I am running "E", but that shouldnt matter. I see some talk about shock towers and maybe rear hubs. ANy help would be appreciated.

pyromania

iTrader: (18)

Other than shock towers and rear hubs, you also need the rear arms and outer hinge pins. The new pins are thicker and much more durable.

You will also need a 2.0 rear center drive shaft.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

There is a list of parts posted in this thread somewhere but the rear gearbox was upgraded a bit as well. Also uses 4mm instead of 5mm tie rods all around. This is obviously nit picky stuff tho . . .

mark381

Hi all, just wondering which orientation those of you using the 2200kv Mamba Monster Combo are bolting your motor in as the wires that come out of the motor are fixed with flexible leads. It seems I can either have the three motor wires pointing directly upwards, in which case I will need to bend them down immediately and sharply to avoid the bodywork, or alternatively I can rotate the motor 90 degrees and have the wires pointing to the centre of the car but then they seem to run very close to the rear centre drive shaft. What are you guys doing with this?

Regards Mark

Led Finger

iTrader: (8)

try this, wires dont hit anywhere on the body

mark381

Cheers Ledfinger, I have sent my 8e body away for painting so am struggling to mock it up, I have mounted my esc the opposite way around to you with the motor wires at the rear, so guess I can do similar to yours but loop the motor wires to the rear and cable tie them to the rear brace instead of the centre diff frame as you did.

I know the manual says I can shorten the three motor wires, can I also shorten the battery wires from the esc? or should I shorten the cables from the battery (when it turns up)?

Regards

Mark

neobart

iTrader: (4)

There's nothing wrong with making the wires from battery to ESC as short as possible.

Ferret

Try "cloacking" the motor:
Remove the 3 screws securing the front plate of the motor.
Rotate the front plate so that each of the 3 screw holes lines up to a new hole in the can.
Replace the 3 screws.
Now the wires will exit at an angel 30 from the original angle.

Avner.

mark381

I was thinking about that as the motor mount screws are spaced at 90 degrees whereas the front of the case is held on by three screws 120 degrees apart. If I do remove the front casing of the motor I am assuming there are no other connections to the casing and it is just there to support the front bearing and give the motor somewhere for the mount screws to attach. So if I undo the screws will it just rotate or will I need to slide it off the shaft and rotate it prior to putting it on? Does it come off easily with the screws removed or does it require a bit of force? I know people have removed it to re tap the mount screw holes to 4mm.

Regards

Mark

Just took the front off and rotated it, worked a treat, now I dont have to try to force the heavy motor wires into a tight bend as soon as they exit the rear of the motor

KyJoe340

iTrader: (1)

I've been searching and reading about the sponge in the shock cap bladder and the 10 degree inclined spindle. Wondering if one or both of these is one of those "upgrades" that really needs to be done for the car to handle its best? I mostly run indoor clay, somewhat tight with a couple of big jumps and one sweeper.

Trialser

iTrader: (17)

What screws are you using to mount the castle motor? With a 3mm flat head with the losi mount, they don't seem to stay solid for me. Really wish it was a 4mm mount on the motor.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I like the inclined caster blocks. They really help the car finish the corner. They say the hole in the cap and foam mod makes the shocks more consistent but they result in a little more shock maintenance. I am sure it helps but did not notice anything game changing when I did it. I did really like the inclined blocks though.

KyJoe340

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Casper, do you like the 10 or 12 degree?

Jube

iTrader: (43)

Joey, you will despise the 10* blocks at Reo. I ran them on the outdoor track and with all the 180* turns in their layouts, the stock setup is by far best. Even after doing the dremel work for more throw. I watched Kevin Wilson take his off and put the stickers back on at a much larger and sweeping track than Reo. Just my opinion.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I like the 10's. Sounds like others have tried it at your track. Since they are not running them maybe they will let you try them before you drop the money on them?

They worked great for me.