Integra

iTrader: (8)

X2 just let her hang.

Led Finger

iTrader: (8)

right on dudes! im gonna let her hang

Hate2Looz

iTrader: (27)

I've been using metal spurs sense last May with no issues. When the plastics strip out and cost you the win in the A main, you'll convert to metal. The noise is not that bad if they are meshed right.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I went a full season on one plastic gear. Finally let go. Did not cost me a main though. Not sure why if failed but had no hesitatation putting another plastic one on.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

I got 2 season's on my E Spur's but I will admit i probable don't run as often as Casper does, But im still 100% confident the plastics the way to go.

neobart

iTrader: (4)

I have plenty of hours on my plastic spur, and I am hard pressed to tell it's been run at all. I have let the motor hang from the get go, by Casper's advice.

KyJoe340

iTrader: (1)

Does the 8ight handle better being built as light as possible? I have two motor and bat combos. A Tekin 1400 with a 6s 2650 which is considerably lighter than my Tekin 1900 4s 5200. Both have about the same runtime.

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

Not neccesarily. Sometimes on big outdoor tracks the extra weight helps you be stable. Make sure that the truck is still balanced with the 4s batts though, my 2 5200mah hardcases in series weight 24 oz! The chassis has too much weight on that side.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Do you have a considerable difference in temps? In reality the car is built for Nitro which are in the 7lb range. The EP will weigh in at around 8lbs. You be the judge but would personally error on the light side. The best advice I can give is to use the Drake setup and make the car light as possible.

I personally like my planted my 8lb beast--which might sound a bit contradictory--so as I can still remain ride height.

jason07

iTrader: (4)

That's what I thougnt too. I finally stripped my plastic gear last weekend though. My motor mount kept coming loose even with blue loc tite on the screw. I guess when the motor came off it ate into the gears. All the shop had was a metal gear so I put it on. It's a bit more noise but nothing too bad.

Does anyone have any clue as to why the motor mount screw keeps coming out?

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Vibration, tolerances and different materials. I have experienced the same problem but found a screw a 1/4" longer and have never had the problem again . . .

jason07

iTrader: (4)

Ok I may try that.

Thanks

rob martin

iTrader: (62)

couple of questions here mainly about the 1.0 buggy., Im thinking about converting my old 1.0

1. Do the 2.0 bodies work on the 1.0?

2.has anyone used the jconcepts illuzion 1.0 body on a converted electric 1.0? Just wondering mainly about the height of the sides for running electric.

3. Is anyone still running 1.0' converted to electric.just wondering cause ive one sitting around and im thinking about converting it. Just seeing if theres any notable things to upgradge on it etc.

GO-RIDE.com

iTrader: (1)

1. Yes, 2.0 bodies work fine on the 1.0. The 2.0 is only 2mm longer than a 1.0.

2. I really like the Losi E body because it's already cut out and has very good venting. I highly recommend attaching it only with velcro to the mud guards, it will last a lot longer.

3. For electric the improvements from 1.0 to 2.0 are minimal. Here's my take on the upgrades:
a. If you drive a rough outdoor track then the 2.0 or 1.0 Flex Tune Chassis is a nice upgrade. If your track is indoors or smooth then the stock chassis is great.
b. Definitely bore out the rear hub and outer arm to the 3.5mm hinge pin. Very cheap upgrade.
c. Use a 2.0 setup on your 1.0. That is just shock pistons, oil, and camber positions, sway bars, etc. You will find that the most popular 2.0 camber positions are either identical or very very close to what the 1.0 recommends. Nearly free upgrade.

grapejuice

iTrader: (151)

So what esc are most people using, my car gets here tomorrow? Planning on running a Tekin 1700 motor and 4s lipo....Tekin, Hobbywing....?