XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

Jason I used a lighter and bent it so its under the body.... some even leave it inside the box...



Click on the pic to make it bigger.
Warpig... we can help ... what is your setup! What dont you like?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

How old is the car getting ? Might be time for a fresh one.

jason07

iTrader: (4)

Those pics were perfect. That's where I though it went but I wasn't sure if it was the top hole or the bottom. I suppose the small silver set screw is there to prevent the antenna from popping out?

Thanks for the pics XXXdad

Hate2Looz

iTrader: (27)

Yes, the set screw goes in to keep the antenna from coming out.

I just coil mine up neatly in the box. Never had a problem yet.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yeah I just keep my spektrum antenna in the radio box and leave it that way. Have not had a single issue this way. Keeps everything nice and clean. I don't run antenna tubes anymore.

chris c

iTrader: (60)

I see with the losi mount its designed for 4mm motor screws. What did you guys do to mount a castle motor? just use 3mm tapered screws?

KingdomRacer

iTrader: (5)

I finally finished reading the whole thread and there is good info on this thread.
I started my build of my 8 2.0B in Jan. 2010 and chose to do it piece by piece (way too expensive, never again).
I started out with the Matrix chassis and the Castle's conversion kit.
The chassis was great but the Castle kit uses cheap plastic for the batt trays and they break pretty easy. Now this was my first race season ever so I was more of a basher on the track and maybe for a seasoned racer the Castle kit would be fine, but for me it forced me to change setup so I could finish a race day with no worries. Oh by the way, Castle does not sell just the plastic batt trays separate and by my third kit it was definitely getting old and I have gotten pretty consistent with little to very minor crashes.
So I tried the Losi conversion and didn't like it as much as the Castle's kit that allows a batt to be on each side and the motor in the middle.
This got me to buy a Tekno conversion kit (just for the chassis) and use parts from each kit to make my own conversion.
So my conversion uses the Castle motor mount on a Tekno chassis to use TP 4s 3200mah 40c hard case on each side in parallel.
This setup is allows me to run two 40c lipos in parallel which gives me 6400mah but the C rating goes double offering me way more power throughout the entire race (20-30min mains).
The rest of my setup is MMP/1512 1.5Y (motor has 8mm shaft w/front fan, finned), 7940TH, CCBEC w/MMP internal BEC controlling the transponder and receiver.
The parts on the car are mostly from UltraRacing, a couple from KingHeadz, a complete package from LunsfordRacing for my screws, links and pins and ACER bearings.
I race on a 190'X90' track with really fast guys and by the middle of the season only hit the podium for third and swore before the season ends I'll take first and was told that I was dreaming.
Well the last race day I finally did it and beat the guy who I was always behind, my only regret is not reading this thread a lot sooner.

warpig

iTrader: (7)

Not old.. a bit over 2 gallons. I'm getting a another new 2.0 this winter. I'm tired of chasing whatever weird problem is causing this one to drive so bad. Very odd.. to say the least. I've had all the big names look at it and nobody knows why it's so off.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

Whats off> Does the back end come around? Whats bad?

warpig

iTrader: (7)

It's complicated. After months of messing with the car I feel it is a combination of things. I got it to drive okay. The last couple races I was at I was about 1 second off Drakes lap times but the car was inconsistent. Very difficult to go fast and when I came into corners (especially right ones) the car wanted to spin around left. I've replaced diffs.. spend hours on my brakes... taken bearings out and regreased.. replaced arms.. messed with shock pistons thinking they were binding due to flash... on and on and on.. I've made at least 50 attempts at teardowns trying to find what is causing it. I've given up.. it's not worth it. I'll get a new one. I've driven one that drives good and I was much faster, and very consistent. There is no point in trouble shooting the car any longer.

Hate2Looz

iTrader: (27)

I'm beginning to have the same issue with my 7 month old 2.0B. Inconsistent is the best way that I can describe mine as well.

Jurgen

iTrader: (6)

Hello everyone i just installed a MMM 2200kv in my 1.0 buggy i have 46t on the spur and 16 on the motor . Any suggestions will be appreciated . Should i run the plastic spur or get a steal one ? This is on 4s .

jag5508

iTrader: (15)

Me too I stopped running mine a couple months ago . I think I'm going to try something else next year .

K-Line

iTrader: (1)

Im getting into 1/8 electric and ive been kinda of confused because some sire say that castles 2650 is for buggies and others say that its for truggies. So im just wondering what you would recomend for a losi 8ight

fpart

iTrader: (40)

I just bought a Proline Bulldog body for the 8ight -E. It fits pretty well. I plan on using it. However, I was wondering if anyone else has used this body and knows where are good places for airvents to reduce heat. I have removed the lower trays so I don't think I will have to worry too much about heat but wanted to put a vent hole in front of the speed control and in front of the motor. What do you think?