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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 08-25-2010, 10:34 AM
  #4921  
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Originally Posted by NSLST View Post
from Bradley at Fine Line Design,
I like this body more than my 8e buggy.
His workmanship is up there with all the top painter hes reasonable.
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:42 PM
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monkee--That is the servo I have been using. It is AWESOME! Some will tell you the case can be weak but me and my buddy have not had a single problem with the servo yet. Works perfect!
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Old 08-27-2010, 04:28 AM
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Losi 8ight-E questions:

I have a friend that is going to look at one tomorrow in a Pawn Shop for $300. All he knows is that it's an 8ight-E, not a converted nitro car and is about 1-1 1/2 years old and it comes complete with electrics and rx/tx. He asked me a few questions that I unfortunately didn't know the answer to.

1. Were all 8ight-E's 2.0? or did they make an 8ight-E 1.0 also?
2. If they did make an 8ight-E 1.0, when did the 2.0 come out?
3. Given the age of this car, is it a 1.0 or 2.0?
4. I have another friend with a converted Nitro 8ight 2.0, but I noticed his shock towers look exactly the same as mine, however his shock towers are the grey ones and mine are the black ones, I have the 8ight-E 2.0 Buggy Race Roller, are there any differences in the shock towers or did the Nitro's just have different anodizing than the factory electric cars?
5. Are there any other differences between the Race Roller and the regular 8ight-E?

He asked what he should look for, I told him to make sure the CVD's are straight and don't bind at all when he rotates the wheels and to check for excessive slop. Is there anything else you suggest he check for? I know I asked quite a bit, but this info would be very helpful to my friend when he goes to look at the car. Even if the car needs a few things, at $300 it may still be worth him getting it and upgrade parts later. Thanks for your guys input!
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Old 08-27-2010, 04:40 AM
  #4924  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Losi 8ight-E questions:

I have a friend that is going to look at one tomorrow in a Pawn Shop for $300. All he knows is that it's an 8ight-E, not a converted nitro car and is about 1-1 1/2 years old and it comes complete with electrics and rx/tx. He asked me a few questions that I unfortunately didn't know the answer to.

1. Were all 8ight-E's 2.0? or did they make an 8ight-E 1.0 also?
2. If they did make an 8ight-E 1.0, when did the 2.0 come out?
3. Given the age of this car, is it a 1.0 or 2.0?
4. I have another friend with a converted Nitro 8ight 2.0, but I noticed his shock towers look exactly the same as mine, however his shock towers are the grey ones and mine are the black ones, I have the 8ight-E 2.0 Buggy Race Roller, are there any differences in the shock towers or did the Nitro's just have different anodizing than the factory electric cars?
5. Are there any other differences between the Race Roller and the regular 8ight-E?

He asked what he should look for, I told him to make sure the CVD's are straight and don't bind at all when he rotates the wheels and to check for excessive slop. Is there anything else you suggest he check for? I know I asked quite a bit, but this info would be very helpful to my friend when he goes to look at the car. Even if the car needs a few things, at $300 it may still be worth him getting it and upgrade parts later. Thanks for your guys input!
The 2.0 has black shocktowers and a black chasis. The 1.0 has a grey/brown chasis and shocktowers.
There's no difference between a nitro roller and the electric roller. The 2.0E is just a converted nitro car.
If it's possible, ask to remove the front and rear end and inspect the mesh between the pinion and ringgear. Make sure all teeth are still in shape.
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:25 AM
  #4925  
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Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
The simple fact of the matter is that the plastic spur does not fit everyone's driving style. If you mesh it right, it does quite well. I tend to use little brakes and am conscientious of the fact that I am running metal to plastic. If you are smooth then you are good to go.

The basic idea is the ratio. If you need to run a small pinion against a large spur you are creating a load of torque--this in itself will have a tendency to strip a plastic spur . . .
Well I ran a plastic for almost a year without stripping a single one. When I switched to this motor and had to go to a 13 pinion, that's when the trouble began.

I just installed a metal spur and driving on the street I was surprised that it was not nearly as loud as I expected. I think for this motor and the gearing I need I'll just stick to the metal.

I'm racing this weekend (I only race, never bash) so I'll see if it holds up to two 6 minute quali's and a 12 minute main and practice.
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Old 08-28-2010, 12:23 AM
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will turnigy 4s 25c 5000 lipos be good in a 2.0e with a castle 2200?
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by monkee View Post
will turnigy 4s 25c 5000 lipos be good in a 2.0e with a castle 2200?


yes sir.
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:44 AM
  #4928  
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
Well I ran a plastic for almost a year without stripping a single one. When I switched to this motor and had to go to a 13 pinion, that's when the trouble began.

I just installed a metal spur and driving on the street I was surprised that it was not nearly as loud as I expected. I think for this motor and the gearing I need I'll just stick to the metal.

I'm racing this weekend (I only race, never bash) so I'll see if it holds up to two 6 minute quali's and a 12 minute main and practice.
Yeah, smaller pinion == more torque. I have read that many run w/o the rear motor mount to help with the stripping issue?
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Old 08-28-2010, 07:23 PM
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First time out with my losi 2.- conversion buggy. Running a 2050 tekin and i ended up stripping my 45t and a 44 t spur gear.. I dunno why its happening. Im using the losi conversion kit only part i changed out was the motor mount and am using a rc monster motor mount.

Any help before i throw in the 48t metal spur?

Last edited by Moogumby; 08-29-2010 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 08-28-2010, 07:54 PM
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I'm not sure how people are stripping the spurs. I've been running the E buggy since it came out and haven't stripped one.

Apparently people are taking the plastic motor support out and not having any more issues.
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:04 PM
  #4931  
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Originally Posted by warpig View Post
I'm not sure how people are stripping the spurs. I've been running the E buggy since it came out and haven't stripped one.

Apparently people are taking the plastic motor support out and not having any more issues.
The plastic motor support? are you talking about the peice that holds the diff in of the peice on top that screws into the motor mount and the other diff holder??
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:41 PM
  #4932  
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he guys im looking to getting a 2.0 buggy anything i need to know about them. looking to buy used...
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by warpig View Post
I'm not sure how people are stripping the spurs. I've been running the E buggy since it came out and haven't stripped one.

Apparently people are taking the plastic motor support out and not having any more issues.


X2 im still on my original 44T.
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:24 PM
  #4934  
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Originally Posted by warpig View Post
I'm not sure how people are stripping the spurs. I've been running the E buggy since it came out and haven't stripped one.

Apparently people are taking the plastic motor support out and not having any more issues.
Originally Posted by Moogumby View Post
The plastic motor support? are you talking about the peice that holds the diff in of the peice on top that screws into the motor mount and the other diff holder??
Step 1: Remove the rear motor brace the one that rests on the back of the motor ( half moon shaped) ! Step 2: locktight ( blue) the pinion set screw ! Step 3: I double a peace of paper ( not thick paper) and set my mesh that way, pushing the gear mesh together... Locktight the motor adjustments screw...... check it all the time. I also locktight the through bolts that hold the motormount through the chasi plate.
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:24 AM
  #4935  
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Originally Posted by monkee View Post
will turnigy 4s 25c 5000 lipos be good in a 2.0e with a castle 2200?
I just removed the mamba 2200 and installed the mamba 1520-1y-1600kv Anny one try this one yet in the losi 8ight t-2.0 race roller and if you did what do you think of it.
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