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Old 08-18-2010, 08:27 AM
  #4876  
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Yes ditch the rear motor support. This has been the leading cause of stripped gears so far. The motor support pushes up on the motor under hard landings and messes up the gear mesh. Take off the rear support and you should have much better luck with your spur gears. I have been running the same one for almost a year now.
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:09 AM
  #4877  
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Originally Posted by Casper
Yes ditch the rear motor support. This has been the leading cause of stripped gears so far. The motor support pushes up on the motor under hard landings and messes up the gear mesh. Take off the rear support and you should have much better luck with your spur gears. I have been running the same one for almost a year now.


X2
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:33 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. I'll definitely give that a try. I really didn't want to go to a metal spur gear.
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:48 PM
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i to herd to ditch the rear motor support i ran it for months never had an issue than i ditched it because it made setting the mesh easyier..........still no issues almost a year now and i hardly ever strip a spur and i run plastic.



make sure you brakes are not turned all the way up as going from full speed max rpm to instant stop if you brakes are turned all the way up can take a toll on drivetrain parts including the spur
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:55 PM
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John. The rear mount seems to only be an issue on hard landings off big jumps where you get lots of chassis flex. I have known guys that ran it for a while with no issues but then get the tracks where they start to strip spurs as the landings are harder. It is not a bad thing to remove it.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:19 PM
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Some TL8E bodies, stock and a PL Slipstream just painted up...One is not as it seems though if you look closely?








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Old 08-18-2010, 08:58 PM
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Oh me oh my jim......your such a tease.....Now i want new too.


Hey btw how did my buddy peter's body's turn out ? any pics ?


Dirty mugen Lol
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Some TL8E bodies, stock and a PL Slipstream just painted up...One is not as it seems though if you look closely?








...Jim
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DOUBLE-U OH DOUBLE-U those things look awesome! Great job!
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:24 AM
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I just converted my 2.0 to an e car..........I put in the Losi conversion, I am getting a rx8 system and a 2050(going to get a 1700kv as well for indoor) and a Tekin 4s lipo........is there anything I need to know or be aware of about this conversion as far as mods/tips etc.? what is the rear motor support, the plastic part that the can sits in, take it out? thanks! TW

also, what is a good starting setup for a high-bite/tight/hardpacked/smooth indoor layout?
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:05 AM
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Yes take out the rear motor support. It does more harm then good.

Start with this setup and tune from there.

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...6_DrakeStd.pdf
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Old 08-19-2010, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
I just converted my 2.0 to an e car..........I put in the Losi conversion, I am getting a rx8 system and a 2050(going to get a 1700kv as well for indoor) and a Tekin 4s lipo........is there anything I need to know or be aware of about this conversion as far as mods/tips etc.? what is the rear motor support, the plastic part that the can sits in, take it out? thanks! TW

also, what is a good starting setup for a high-bite/tight/hardpacked/smooth indoor layout?
Where did you buy your losi conversion kit at? and how much was it
how hard was the install?

thinking about converting my nitro as well for my son to drive

thanks
c
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:34 PM
  #4887  
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Thanks very much guys!

Integra, not yet, but soon, I believe they will be in this weeks work. I'll know for sure in a night or two how many i'll be able to get in this week coming up.



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Old 08-20-2010, 05:23 AM
  #4888  
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Originally Posted by Casper
John. The rear mount seems to only be an issue on hard landings off big jumps where you get lots of chassis flex. I have known guys that ran it for a while with no issues but then get the tracks where they start to strip spurs as the landings are harder. It is not a bad thing to remove it.
That makes perfect sense in my application. Every time I have stripped the spur on it has been after landing the biggest jump on the track and there is no way to land softly on that one. It is a gap that must be cleared and the landing is actually above the take off and it is dead flat. You cannot land softly. Also it is easy to come up a bit short and case the landing and I'm sure that causes a lot of chassis flex.

I'm gonna ditch that rear support and hopefully the problem will go away.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:30 AM
  #4889  
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Default TL8E BODIES.

Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Some TL8E bodies, stock and a PL Slipstream just painted up...One is not as it seems though if you look closely?








...Jim
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Hi, this colour combination looks great. I am very interested on the losi8e bodies. How do I go about ordering from you.

Regards.
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Old 08-22-2010, 09:40 AM
  #4890  
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Originally Posted by Casper
Yes take out the rear motor support. It does more harm then good.

Start with this setup and tune from there.

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...6_DrakeStd.pdf
Well I guess the rear support was not the problem. I removed it and got less than two laps before I stripped a brand new spur.

I never had this problem with my other motors and I have been racing RC for almost 3 decades, so I know how to set mesh.

This motor is not that high of a KV. I think 2250kv, but it is just insanely fast. I'm wondering if the plastic spur simply won't hold up to it or if the chassis is flexing too much with the stock plastic chassis braces.

When it happens I never see any evidence that the motor mount has loosened or moved.

Should I try stiffer braces? (I'm not optimisitic about that because the brace ends so far from the spur gear)
Or just bite the bullet and go with a metal spur gear?
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