-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

the 1900 will be more controllable, useable power and plenty fast.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

the track we have is a fairly decent size.
is there any downside to a 2050 over a 1900?
its just a bit more power right?
i just assumed it could be 'dumbed' down via the esc settings

monkee

iTrader: (15)

the track is actually changed a bit this weekend.. a little bit larger and less technical. bigger jumps

Integra

iTrader: (8)

the 1900 will be More efficient and run cooler....the 1700 will also be more efficient and run cooler...its a win win situation going down in KV on the RX8 with the new software to compensate.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

ok then...
with a 1900... on 4s 5000mah... 45spur and a 19pinion..
what would you say top speed would be in the straights?

jnyrcr

iTrader: (5)

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html put your info in this and you should get your answers.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

is 30-35k rpms too much?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

15/45 is VERY common gearing for a losi on 4s 1900


speed is in the high 30's to low 40's.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

which i think is very consistent with .21 nitro buggies right?
thats my hot button. i want to keep up with the nitro

Integra

iTrader: (8)

wont be a problem there.....problem is finding a place to put all the power.

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Tekin's 208 is amazing. A 1900 now is as fast and more efficient than a 2050 on 203 and so fourth. You could also go with a 1700 and run 5 cell on bigger tracks and 4 cell on the smaller tracks if you need the versatility instead of keeping two motors. you might notice 4 cell is just fine even on larger tracks with TP3 instead of TP1 or 2. 90 percent of the time a little slower is a lot faster.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

sorry... whats tekins 208?

is that in this?


https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=TEKTT2312

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

It is the new Hotwire software update for the RX8. It is great you should go over to that thread and read up on it.! You can download it here.

chiro972

iTrader: (10)

Guys I need help. Has anyone had trouble repeatedly stripping plastic spur gears on this car?

I recently switched to a hobbywing 4168 and LOVE this motor, but since I switched, I have DNF'd a few times from stripping a spur. This never happened before.

I did, after the first time, tap the smallish 3mm mount holes in the motor to 4mm and figured that would solve it, but still had one go.

Should I ditch the rear motor support? Mine is trimmed to fit the tekin motor that I was running, do I need one that is untrimmed?

Should I just switch to a metal spur and be done with it and just live with the extra noise?

I've been racing for decades, so I know how to set the mesh, so that isn't the problem, it's just that something is flexing or loosening and causing the mesh to change while running.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

Absolutely ditch the rear support. That's a prime contributor to stripped spurs. I have never stripped a single one.