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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 07-21-2010, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank L View Post
Do you have to cut vents in the body like you did to keep tthe motor and esc cool? I just did a bull dog body for the e car and I was wanting to know if I need to vent it to keep the electronics cooler?

I am running a thunderpower 5200 50c 4s and it does not fit under the bulldog body without cutting it. The front corner hits and presses up the bulldog body. It fits under the stock losi E body.
I see you are running velcro on your mud guards. do you use body clips too? or just the velcro to hold the body? I get some flex in the chassis and it is hell on bodies.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:13 AM
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You need to pull the slot in the rear forward about 1/4 inch and then pull the front hole toward the back about 1/4 inch and this will allow the chassis to flex under the body. This has really helped in making my bodies last longer. I know Losi is making a running change on the stock body to pull the rear hole forward but the front hole they are keeping the same and it really needs to be slotted as well. There is enough front flex that it deforms the front of the body and slotting the front hole helps with this some.

Also raising the front body post .090 helps take stress off the nose as it goes through the front tower.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank L View Post
Do you have to cut vents in the body like you did to keep tthe motor and esc cool? I just did a bull dog body for the e car and I was wanting to know if I need to vent it to keep the electronics cooler?

I am running a thunderpower 5200 50c 4s and it does not fit under the bulldog body without cutting it. The front corner hits and presses up the bulldog body. It fits under the stock losi E body.
Do you have to? I'm not sure but you do need some ventilation. When the air gets in it needs to get out as well so I trimmed a little off of the rear towards the end of the mud guard. It was 100+ at the shoot out last weekend and my motor never got above 180 so I would say without ventilation I would be pushing close to 200. I knew it was going to be hot so decided to do some serious ventilation. Yeah you will need to cut a triangle in the front outside corner above the battery to fit the body. Don at here DGDesigns the guy that paints my bodies lowered his battery tray with some dremeling to lower COG and improve flex of the ESC platform. Might help fit your battery. My Tekin RX8 ESC never gets hot so venting probably wasn't needed on that side of the body but I have ocd and like to be symmetrical.

Originally Posted by Lon_L View Post
I see you are running velcro on your mud guards. do you use body clips too? or just the velcro to hold the body? I get some flex in the chassis and it is hell on bodies.
I don't use body clips except on my nitros because the velcro gets dirty and not as strong on them. As Casper stated you need to oblong the hole in the rear out in front and back of the post. Does not hurt to do the front as well.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
You need to pull the slot in the rear forward about 1/4 inch and then pull the front hole toward the back about 1/4 inch and this will allow the chassis to flex under the body. This has really helped in making my bodies last longer. I know Losi is making a running change on the stock body to pull the rear hole forward but the front hole they are keeping the same and it really needs to be slotted as well. There is enough front flex that it deforms the front of the body and slotting the front hole helps with this some.

Also raising the front body post .090 helps take stress off the nose as it goes through the front tower.


Great, thanks I have the slots now as well as a Fioroni Rear body mount. I did also just raised the front post. So hopefully my new body from Jim at WED will give a bit more for my money
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:28 PM
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I Cant say ive ever broken a nose off a single one of my Losi/JC body's.....I do However run a longer screw in the front mount and put a 10-12mm piece of fuel tubing to act as a flex point....works great if you ask me.
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
You need to pull the slot in the rear forward about 1/4 inch and then pull the front hole toward the back about 1/4 inch and this will allow the chassis to flex under the body. This has really helped in making my bodies last longer. I know Losi is making a running change on the stock body to pull the rear hole forward but the front hole they are keeping the same and it really needs to be slotted as well. There is enough front flex that it deforms the front of the body and slotting the front hole helps with this some.

Also raising the front body post .090 helps take stress off the nose as it goes through the front tower.
I slot my rear body hole a TON and it still tears the rear of the bodies out. I run the JC body to clear my battery and even added a strip of drywall tape covered in shoe goo to reinforce it this time but it still torn right out. It is SERIOUSLY annoying for sure especially when you have $75ish into a body.
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:16 PM
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I have yet to tear out the back of a body. The front ends crack on my bodies though. Do you use the little square piece of lexan they give you with the losi bodies for the rear location?

The slotting of the front end helps with the from cracking between teh two front vents through the windshield.
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:07 PM
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I quit using the body posts altogether. I use 1/2"" industrial velcro--use the hooks on the chassis guards and the loops on the body. Perfect!
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:42 PM
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I have a Losi 8ight-E Race Roller and my friend just got a Losi 8ight 2.0 with a Losi E-conversion. Anyone know the differences besides the Shock Towers? Just Curious. Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:41 AM
  #4765  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
I have a Losi 8ight-E Race Roller and my friend just got a Losi 8ight 2.0 with a Losi E-conversion. Anyone know the differences besides the Shock Towers? Just Curious. Thanks!
Maybe the shock caps, his maybe plastic while yours are the aluminum. Also check the shock shafts your's are most likely TiN, while his are standard.. same for some of the other pins through the car.

Not a huge difference though.. chassis is usually different quality I guess too..
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:07 PM
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i elongate the body holes super long front and rear..........body still breaks its super annoying :flaming :
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Old 07-22-2010, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
I have a Losi 8ight-E Race Roller and my friend just got a Losi 8ight 2.0 with a Losi E-conversion. Anyone know the differences besides the Shock Towers? Just Curious. Thanks!
So you are wanting to know the difference from the 1.0 roller tower to the 2.0 roller tower? There are some mounting positional changes that were made.

Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- View Post
Do you have to? I'm not sure but you do need some ventilation. When the air gets in it needs to get out as well so I trimmed a little off of the rear towards the end of the mud guard. It was 100+ at the shoot out last weekend and my motor never got above 180 so I would say without ventilation I would be pushing close to 200. I knew it was going to be hot so decided to do some serious ventilation. Yeah you will need to cut a triangle in the front outside corner above the battery to fit the body. Don at here DGDesigns the guy that paints my bodies lowered his battery tray with some dremeling to lower COG and improve flex of the ESC platform. Might help fit your battery. My Tekin RX8 ESC never gets hot so venting probably wasn't needed on that side of the body but I have ocd and like to be symmetrical.
Ok Ill get the dremel out tonight.
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by john stu View Post
i elongate the body holes super long front and rear..........body still breaks its super annoying :flaming :
Me too! Between busting bodies and popping center driveshafts I'm going to try a D8. 8ights have too much flex for sub pro level drivers like me.
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Old 07-22-2010, 06:00 PM
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I'm sure this has been answered a hundred times in this thread but I havent read through the entire thread yet.

I'm converting my 8ight 1.0 to electric and need to know what a good bang for the buck ESC/Motor combo is. I want something that is capable of winning races, but not break the bank.

I'll likely be running 5000+ 4S lipo's.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:00 PM
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Hi im looking at using the castle creations conversion kit on the Losi 2.0 but there are a couple of concerns
How well does the CC conversion layout fit under the losi e body LosA89097, the batteries are my main concern with them standing on there side but the ESC looks like it sits very high.
The equipment i will be using ip 5000mah 7.4v x 2 with a monster CC esc.

Thank you in advance
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