fred6233

Oh yes, I agree!
I used to have 2050kv, 4s, 14/45 (8ight): much too much power, front tires fast worn out, lots of adrenaline but nothing really efficient on the lap-time.
Now I've switched to 1700kv, 4s, 15/45 (8ight): lap times have dropped, excellent balance with both adrenaline + performances, run time higher than 17 minutes with 5000mAh.
My conclusion is a question: how can the buggy drivers using high kv-motors pretend that they are still driving a race-oriented buggy?
Ok, 1/8th scale E-buggy is quiet new, but isn't it time to make it return on earth with reasonable setups & gearings?
Regards, fred

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Most that run the higher KV and in control for racing are using 3S batteries.

I agree a lot of people are over powered for most all conditions.

Max amps is very proud of there batteries and charges for that!

I don't hear a lot of complaints about the quality of there batteries but they are expensive for sure.

Hide

iTrader: (8)

http://www.matrixconceptsinc.com/pro...=2&idproduct=1

Will this chassis fit fine with my 2.0 E? I assume there is no difference in mounting holes between the 1.0 and 2.0?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

No difference at all...Robert's chassis is technically "2.0" spec being 1.5mm longer then the 1.0....If you dont want to be replacing the rear replaceable skid all the time run the DE skid and the Front also run the DE but get a spare or 2 of the front skids as it will wear a little right at the chassis kick...My buggy chassis is still my original from over a year ago and its still in great condition.


PS Hide any Question's feel free to PM me.

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

Hey man I am going to have to buy a 1800kv motor. Or see if a losi motor soil wrong with a monster.

adubaz7

iTrader: (31)

I need a little help with my setup I have an 8t 2.0 electric and I have a few issues. My setup is stock out of the box race roller. I set front toe out to about 2+ degrees as it came with about 8+ also went to purple rear springs to achive reccomended ride height of 38 front and 42 rear also changed center diff to 20k as the 10k with brushless just unloads the front so much. This did not seem to really change anything except better acceleration.
What I am looking for is more on power steering as it pushes more than I would like also when I enter corner off power I could use more rear traction as it has good turn in but tends to have the tail end rotate a bit too much. also I think overall the suspension is just too stiff after I set the ride height both with the gray or purple rear and stock black fronts but with the black front and gray rear it takes alot of preload to get ride height as manual recomends. Let me know what you think, I am sure that some will mention the heavy center diff but it did not really change much for my setup so I would like to try other changes before making a change to this part of setup.

SpEEdyBL

iTrader: (1)

I think the correct ride hide should be 27mm in the front, and 28mm in the rear.

Hate2Looz

iTrader: (27)

So, I bought a brand new race roller on Friday and dropped all my E stuff into it. Ran it 30 ish minutes Friday night in practice, felt unbelieveably better than
my old car (also a nitro 2.0 roller). Mind you, I left the car with the box setup, I've touched nothing other than verifying the essentials (ride height, droop, camber and toe). 3 qualifiers and an A main later, I put 'er on the box.
1st place. I just cannot fathom how much beter the box nitro car's setup is
over the latest Drake E setup. I mean, I'm sure my old, loose car, had something to do with it too but man, unbelieveable difference!

I might put Drake's latest E setup in it come outdoor season but I'm not touching the current setup until then!

gkn0315

iTrader: (126)

You are talking about a nitro race roller setup correct?

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

I agree with u Drake's setup is some else, I like my nitro set up better!

Hate2Looz

iTrader: (27)

Correct. Straight out of the box, on the bench to install the electronics and then straight onto the track = DIALED. Well, for my driving style anyways.

I will withhold further judgement on Drake's E setup until I get outdoors but
indoors, it lacked forward traction, on power steering and felt just plain too
twitchy for me. Which is odd because I run Drake's nitro setup and love it...

I do run my battery all the way forward also but I believe most people do, in this
car, not 100% sure though.

tom2tone

iTrader: (99)

I put all my E stuff on my nitro roller and didn't like the stock set up. I felt it was too light on the springs and pushed too much. I switched over to Drake's set up and like it much better. But I still have yet to run it out doors, so with that being said. How well does these buggies do on out door tracks? How do the temps handle? I'm currently running the MMM 2200kv combo on 4s.

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

I was saying that Drake's setup doesn't work for me and at my two tracks. That all.

smoothie7

iTrader: (13)

Do I need some type of regulator for my steering servo? I am running a JR 8717 with the stock losi esc and motor on 4 cells. Thanks.

makaluch

iTrader: (36)

Naa...the Losi ESC limits the voltage to the receiver. You're good.