dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

The same part number but they are different. The 2.0 is slightly longer to accommodate the 4mm longer chassis. Also, the 2.0 body is a little longer sides so it covers the side guards better. Lastly, the rear portion is flat so the body clip can be removed with reasonable force. Cheers!

Integra

iTrader: (8)

2.0 is only 2mm longer.

revracr909

iTrader: (21)

Any losi 8 e rollers?

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

That is what I always thought! I have not measured it for I have better things to do. Somebody on here mentioned that the chassis was extended 2mm front and rear.

omaha_racing

iTrader: (28)

I am wondering what a safe opperating temp for the 2.0 is? I am running a losi 2100 kv with the factory spur and a 16 tooth pinion.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

My best understanding is that a motor will start to demagnetize at 220F. I believe most will say to keep around 180F--I feel safer at that temp. This should go for any brushless motor . . .

omaha_racing

iTrader: (28)

Well I had better get a heat sink then!!

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Those, I hear, may help. Proper gearing is going to be your best defense. It is getting hot here in CO and my temps are getting up there. I am looking to perform a body modification for better airflow. My motor, a NEU, has a finned can which essentially functions as a heat sink. I have seen that there is a fan you can also install on your Losi heat sink.

omaha_racing

iTrader: (28)

Who makes the fan for the esc?? I have not had good luck with fans on my 10th scale esc, but it also had other issues. It ran close to the 220 mark today... I am a nitro guy converted to electric, so I dont have a clue where to gear the motor. Also I was running my old nitro body, so that may also have something to do with the temp.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, the 1st thing I would do is get the e-body just to eliminate that variable. What is your current gearing, motor, and battery setup?

A lot of Nitro guys do have the tendency to "goose" the throttle often. Nitro guys get kinda mad but I call it "Nitro finger" and this too will not help the heat situ. Smooth is key with the e-buggy.

Let me know you setup and order the heat sink in the mean time . . .

warpig

iTrader: (7)

Tim,

You need to gear that at 15/45. I don't know what spur your conversion came with. That will get it close to optimum RPM's. The temp should not be nearly that high. I run the heat sink on my Xcelorin motor. Did you turn the EPA down and how much? Is your fan on when you turn the car on? The ESC runs it all the time so it should be on as soon as you flip the switch.

I have two E buggy bodies.. You can borrow my black one.

Ben

omaha_racing

iTrader: (28)

Yep the fan is on when the car turns on. I also have 2 spares from the nats, if they break. I would gladly use the spare you have. I had the epa set at 70%, still had way more power then you need. I was able to jump the double and clear the table top. I will check on the spur size.

Wldmoose

iTrader: (3)

Just a heads up, if you install the OEM heatsink on the Losi 2.0E motor it will rub on the inside of your body unless you make a ct-out.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

On a small track gear 14/45....

DaveG28

iTrader: (65)

So in terms of spares is it a running change? My kit shell got pancaked by another car so need to get a spare, would I have no way of knowing which I was getting then?

Will the 1.0 shell physically fit then?