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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 07-07-2009, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rajS View Post
I used the 2200 as other people have done. I am really satisfied with how it turned out.

watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsaRQps3NGA

****




It could be less traction (esp for the rear) Are you using the same tires as the last time?
yea i was using the same tires as last time
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Old 07-07-2009, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TeckLancer View Post
hey guys when i raced my this weekend it seemed fine speed wise and in the infield but i was having a hard time clearing the triple which last weekend i could clear it with about 40% throttle. anyways after racing i checked the tem and the motor was between 150 and 160 and the esc was around 145 to 150 and the fan wasnt on. any help ?
Tecklancer:
The motor temps you stated are quite normal for me after 12-15 minutes runtime. I am geared at 45/13.

I have had issues with my MMM with small pebbles getting inside the case and damaging my fan. I have since put a mesh cover for the case to prevent debris from getting inside. I replaced the internal fan with a muchmore high rpm fan lined to the regulator so the fan runs constantly when armed, this keeps the temps between 100-110 even when geared to 45/15

Good Luck with that, make sure the fan works when a pack is plugged in (2 second fan test) If it refuses to start at all, then you could have an issue while running.
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Old 07-07-2009, 06:49 PM
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Thank you for the hands-on video!

My question is: Is it required to make the motor mount hole 4mm? It is not a direct fit?



Originally Posted by rajS View Post
I used the 2200 as other people have done. I am really satisfied with how it turned out.

watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsaRQps3NGA

****




It could be less traction (esp for the rear) Are you using the same tires as the last time?
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rajS View Post
Tecklancer:
The motor temps you stated are quite normal for me after 12-15 minutes runtime. I am geared at 45/13.

I have had issues with my MMM with small pebbles getting inside the case and damaging my fan. I have since put a mesh cover for the case to prevent debris from getting inside. I replaced the internal fan with a muchmore high rpm fan lined to the regulator so the fan runs constantly when armed, this keeps the temps between 100-110 even when geared to 45/15

Good Luck with that, make sure the fan works when a pack is plugged in (2 second fan test) If it refuses to start at all, then you could have an issue while running.

so plug it in for 2 secs and if it doesnt work its no good?
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Old 07-08-2009, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by vannon View Post
Thank you for the hands-on video!

My question is: Is it required to make the motor mount hole 4mm? It is not a direct fit?
Vannon: You can use the standard 3mm screws to mount the motor, you do not have to retap the motor

****


Originally Posted by TeckLancer View Post
so plug it in for 2 secs and if it doesnt work its no good?
Teck:

Plug in your battery and turn on the switch, the fan should come on for 2 seconds and then go off (self test) this will indicate if the fan is ok. In case the fan does not turn, you need to clean the esc with compressed air and everything should be ok.

You can call castle creations if you have issues with your ESC, replacements are available.

I used this one as it was available at the hobby shop: 30mmx30mmx6mm

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=2111

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Old 07-08-2009, 09:01 AM
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rajS - the 3mm screws is the one that comes with the kit? LOSA6259
thx

[QUOTE=rajS;6039694]Vannon: You can use the standard 3mm screws to mount the motor, you do not have to retap the motor
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Old 07-08-2009, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rajS View Post
Vannon: You can use the standard 3mm screws to mount the motor, you do not have to retap the motor

****




Teck:

Plug in your battery and turn on the switch, the fan should come on for 2 seconds and then go off (self test) this will indicate if the fan is ok. In case the fan does not turn, you need to clean the esc with compressed air and everything should be ok.

You can call castle creations if you have issues with your ESC, replacements are available.

I used this one as it was available at the hobby shop: 30mmx30mmx6mm

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=2111

i dont have a castle esc its a losi esc
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:41 AM
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Default gearing

First off let me say watching my losi pull wheelies makes me giggle like a school girl

I have yet to set punch control on the MMM 2650 but i need to , question is what would be proper starting point for gearing with above mentioned speedo and losi conversion. I know it will vary by track but we dont really have any with giant staightaways. I already stripped a spur( own fault too lose) has anyone used the stock steel one if so what gearing? Heard talk of Kyosho gears any part numbers out there?

Thanks
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:50 AM
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Witih the 2650kv motor, I think I have mines set at 30% punch control. Using the stock steel spur with 14T pinion. Thinking of moving to a 12T or 13T though as our track is small and technical.
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Old 07-09-2009, 11:41 AM
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Did you have to mod anything to make the stock spur fit?

Does anyone know What the actual e 8ight has for gearing from the factory?
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:29 PM
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I need a good baseline setup for the tekno 2 kit and a 1.0 buggy. Also will the new ackerman plates fix the issues on the 1.0 or does that require an entire suspension upgrade. I haven't followed the 2.0 car much since its release (heard good things) and since the bottom fell out of the 1.0's i held on to mine and decided to convert. any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:29 PM
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Check out one of Drakes or Truhes set-ups. They can be found at LOSI.com along with other set-up sheets. Basically the set-up in the manual works great. Most you should be changing is 2-10wt. in shock oil. And maybe heavier springs by 1 grade, but not necessary. Also some change the center diff weight up to 10k, but most of us don't. So if your a smooth driver, you shouldn't change a thing. Hope that helps.

As for the fixes from the 1.0. I would just be happy with the change you already made (ackerman). Besides that, if you are converting the 1.0 with the 2.0 conversion, you will also need the 2.0 center drive shaft. Like This:

It makes up for the extra length in the chassis.

Good Luck!
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Old 07-10-2009, 08:58 AM
  #3058  
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Originally Posted by tinbndr View Post
Did you have to mod anything to make the stock spur fit?

Does anyone know What the actual e 8ight has for gearing from the factory?
I didn't have to do any mods. The E-conversion kit comes with a 45T steel spur gear and a set of 15T/16T pinions. That gearing will make the 2650kv run a bit on the hotter side. So far, my temps are OK with 14T, but like I said, I may go lower on the pinion.
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Old 07-10-2009, 01:25 PM
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Great thread!!!
I'm a new owner of a converted 1.0, is there a list of parts needed/recommended to convert it to a 2.0?

Thanks...
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:59 PM
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[QUOTE=vannon;6039908]rajS - the 3mm screws is the one that comes with the kit? LOSA6259
thx

Originally Posted by rajS View Post
Vannon: You can use the standard 3mm screws to mount the motor, you do not have to retap the motor
Vannon:

Losi a6259 is 4mm screws, the MMM will require only 3mm screws. 3mmx10mm is what you need. it is the standard size screws for 1/10 scale motors.

***

Originally Posted by TeckLancer View Post
i dont have a castle esc its a losi esc
Sorry Tecklancer, I got the posts mixed up. you probably need to replace your fan since it does not run.

***
Originally Posted by tinbndr View Post
Did you have to mod anything to make the stock spur fit?

Does anyone know What the actual e 8ight has for gearing from the factory?
Nitro spur Gear is a tad different from electric so you will have to use a rotary tool to carve up some of the chassis material to accommodate the larger metal spur since the E version has a diff layout as nitro.

45/15 is the default but you will have a range of 13/14/15/16T pinions to find which one works best for you since people drive differently.
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