Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread
03-30-2009, 02:16 PM
#2221
Originally Posted by johnnyr135
Hi guys I have a question I am a newbie and you have all helped me out in the past. I Bought a Slash and a stampede and had so much fun I decided I wanted to try racing. Well I bought a Losi E-Eight 2.0
and I have a few questions. When I press the throttle more times then not the gear on the motor and the gear on the center diff will make clicking noises and the car will not engage then all of a sudden it does and it takes off. This takes longer in reverse then in forward, in forward if I ease up on it and then punch it the car will grab and take off. I adjusted the gears like I did it the other cars with a piece of paper between them but these are straight cut steel gears I was wondering if I should be doing something else or if anyone else is having this problem? Thank you
Attachment 435230
and I have a few questions. When I press the throttle more times then not the gear on the motor and the gear on the center diff will make clicking noises and the car will not engage then all of a sudden it does and it takes off. This takes longer in reverse then in forward, in forward if I ease up on it and then punch it the car will grab and take off. I adjusted the gears like I did it the other cars with a piece of paper between them but these are straight cut steel gears I was wondering if I should be doing something else or if anyone else is having this problem? Thank you
Attachment 435230
Could the motor be cogging?
03-30-2009, 02:38 PM
#2222
Tech Initiate
What does cogging mean? Thank you for the help
03-30-2009, 02:43 PM
#2223
This is from Castlecreations. The ones who make the mamba systems.
5. My vehicle acts like it has "turbo lag" (poor acceleration/punch for the first few feet or yards, and then it "kicks in").
Make sure you're using high quality batteries, and a battery connector capable of high amp flow (75A minimum!)…we recommend our 6.5mm CC Bullets, Deans Ultra connectors, or the Traxxas TRX connectors. This behavior is very typical of a battery pack that is having difficulty providing the power your vehicle/system requires for top performance. The faster the top speed of the system, and the more traction available, the harder the batteries have to work to accelerate the car.
5. My vehicle acts like it has "turbo lag" (poor acceleration/punch for the first few feet or yards, and then it "kicks in").
Make sure you're using high quality batteries, and a battery connector capable of high amp flow (75A minimum!)…we recommend our 6.5mm CC Bullets, Deans Ultra connectors, or the Traxxas TRX connectors. This behavior is very typical of a battery pack that is having difficulty providing the power your vehicle/system requires for top performance. The faster the top speed of the system, and the more traction available, the harder the batteries have to work to accelerate the car.
03-30-2009, 03:56 PM
#2225
Originally Posted by johnnyr135
What does cogging mean? Thank you for the help
03-30-2009, 04:49 PM
#2226
Originally Posted by johnnyr135
Hi guys I have a question I am a newbie and you have all helped me out in the past. I Bought a Slash and a stampede and had so much fun I decided I wanted to try racing. Well I bought a Losi E-Eight 2.0
and I have a few questions. When I press the throttle more times then not the gear on the motor and the gear on the center diff will make clicking noises and the car will not engage then all of a sudden it does and it takes off. This takes longer in reverse then in forward, in forward if I ease up on it and then punch it the car will grab and take off. I adjusted the gears like I did it the other cars with a piece of paper between them but these are straight cut steel gears I was wondering if I should be doing something else or if anyone else is having this problem? Thank you
Attachment 435230
and I have a few questions. When I press the throttle more times then not the gear on the motor and the gear on the center diff will make clicking noises and the car will not engage then all of a sudden it does and it takes off. This takes longer in reverse then in forward, in forward if I ease up on it and then punch it the car will grab and take off. I adjusted the gears like I did it the other cars with a piece of paper between them but these are straight cut steel gears I was wondering if I should be doing something else or if anyone else is having this problem? Thank you
Attachment 435230
that is a 1.0 btw too. Just saying so someone else doesnt correct you at the track or something.
03-30-2009, 05:17 PM
#2227
Originally Posted by Juan Valdez
Hey guys, got a question. I was going through my car and have the rear gear box off. When I spun the input, it was very notchy. For comparison, my front gear box is perfectly smooth and free spinning. With the rear input CVD off, the rear pinion gear/input shaft has no slop at all. You can not push it in or pull it out. When I disassembled everything, it all looks okay and the bearings are all smooth. I think the gear mesh is just very, very tight. Is this normal? Does the rear gear box need to break in more? I have between 1 and 1.5 hours of run time on the car, and the rear gear box has not improved. Does it just need more time, or is this something unusual?
My car is a 1.0, so you can not shim the rear diff. Would it be worth it to upgrade to the 2.0 rear gear box set so I can shim my gear mesh? Any help would be appreciated. I'm new this shaft drive thing. All my TC's are belt drive so I've never had to deal with bevel gear mesh before. Thanks!
My car is a 1.0, so you can not shim the rear diff. Would it be worth it to upgrade to the 2.0 rear gear box set so I can shim my gear mesh? Any help would be appreciated. I'm new this shaft drive thing. All my TC's are belt drive so I've never had to deal with bevel gear mesh before. Thanks!
You can shim the 1.0 diff.....Not as much as the 2.0...but all you have to do is use 8x10 or 8x12 basically any 8mm shim and stick it Under the Flanged bearing...obviously you want to make the mesh a little looser...so install it under the Ring Gear side of the cup and when installing the diff you might need to give it a little force.....its nothing drastic...you will hear/feel the diff "click" into place..and the mesh should be Golden....I did this on Both my 1.0 B and T for the fact i Did Not like the whole "diff breakin" I shim them Smooth right outta the box and have NEVER had a R+P fail.
thickest shim you can use is a .3 you will prolly need .1 or .2
Kyosho makes a nice 8mm shim kit.
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1795
Dont forget about the coupons as well...saving a buck or 2 where you can helps.
$75.00 - 149.99 = $5.00 RCMAR95
$150.00 - 249.99 = $12.50 RCMAR912
$250.00 - 799.99 = $25.00 RCMAR925
$800.00 + = $75.00 RCMAR975
Last edited by Integra; 03-30-2009 at 05:35 PM.
03-31-2009, 12:41 PM
#2228
Not to make everyone have a nasty mess in their pants but the Losi 8ight-E 2.0 is IN STOCK at horizon right now. 
Bam! Looks like I'll have a car this week and I lost a double cheeseburger to Matt. GRR! I mean.. YAY! Um.. wait a sec.. bitter sweet loss/victory!
Bam! Looks like I'll have a car this week and I lost a double cheeseburger to Matt. GRR! I mean.. YAY! Um.. wait a sec.. bitter sweet loss/victory!
03-31-2009, 01:27 PM
#2231
Originally Posted by JGruber
What are people running fluid wise in the Diffs? In my 8T-e, I've got 5/10/2
I may have to add a throttle servo back in, just to minimize that issue. I just rebuilt the rear diff a few weeks ago, and it already has a click. 
03-31-2009, 01:36 PM
#2232
Originally Posted by warpig
Not to make everyone have a nasty mess in their pants but the Losi 8ight-E 2.0 is IN STOCK at horizon right now. Bam! Looks like I'll have a car this week and I lost a double cheeseburger to Matt. GRR! I mean.. YAY! Um.. wait a sec.. bitter sweet loss/victory!
Bam! Looks like I'll have a car this week and I lost a double cheeseburger to Matt. GRR! I mean.. YAY! Um.. wait a sec.. bitter sweet loss/victory!
03-31-2009, 01:39 PM
#2233
Ben, I just got a call today and your 8E 2.0 will be here Thursday.
