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Old 08-07-2008, 08:50 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by JeromeK99 View Post
I totally disagree with both of the previous posters...

The MIP seals last much longer.. I have used them in many, many different cars over the better part of 2 decades of racing.. If they swell.. it's ok.. they are both round and a circular donut in shape.. the swelling if anything makes them seal better...

How long do you think grease will last on the o-rings in the silicone shock fluid? Not very long.. so you can be cool and do something totally unnecessary if you want.. take a look at the goop in your shock fluid when you change them.... then try without.. you can see the grease in the fluid and left sticking to the piston.

The B4 and T4 manuals even list it as a "Racer's Tip".. they sell it.. they want you to buy it... The B44 doesn't mention it once.... You think if it was that important they might at least continue to list it as a "Racer's Tip".

Do with this what you may...

Have fun all!

Jerome







When the seals swell....( does not matter what brand)
Push your ride down and watch how the car stays push down ..
With the Ae seals the car will return back to ride height after you push it down ..
That`s the difference...




Mip seals are tight right from the get go ,so that's why the Ae seals are always recommended...

and don`t scoff at that slime , its works ...

Install new seals when they begin to leak , usually after 8 to 10 race days...

if you don`t use the slime the shock can leak after only a day or so...

How to use the slime:

Put a little on your fingers and rub the slime onto the rings, not to much...

BDW

20 years ?


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Old 08-07-2008, 09:02 AM   #17
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I heard (from an AE driver who tested both blue and red seals) that the blue seals "feel" like going up 5 weight in oil.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeK99 View Post
The B4 and T4 manuals even list it as a "Racer's Tip".. they sell it.. they want you to buy it... The B44 doesn't mention it once.... You think if it was that important they might at least continue to list it as a "Racer's Tip".
Actually, I remember them listing this as a racers tip in the old aluminum chassis team car kits as well back in the day. If i recall, they even gave a sample of it for the old worlds kit.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:53 AM   #19
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Remember, what provide dampening is the oil, when your increase sealing (most of the time by tighter Oring), you increase friction. A racer told me that a perfect shock is a shock that would work only on it's oil.

It may sound odd but that may explain why 1/8 guys like so much Big bore shocks, that increase the amounts of oil they are working one will keeping the amount of friction/sealing the same => overall better dampening
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:56 AM   #20
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You could always put Hot Bodies shocks on the B4, that is what Hayato put on his B4 to win the Worlds!

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Old 08-07-2008, 01:31 PM   #21
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Do what works for you!

Shocks are one of the main reasons I've stuck with Losi cars... they don't have all these leaking problems.... I can go several months without a seal rebuild..

To bad MIP stopped making Losi style shock bodies in Associated sizes many years ago... then there would be an easy fix! lol


Have fun! It's your time and money, spend them anyway you like!


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Old 08-07-2008, 01:39 PM   #22
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Althought this is on the topic of fixing an AE shock, i'd have to blurb out that I really like the kyosho ones. Easy to disassemble and rebuild and smooth as hell.
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:09 AM   #23
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wow seems like every body has their own "urban legend" about how to build ae shocks so here is mine. when building the shocks I add an extra spacer to the seal pack. I make them out of .010 machinists shim stock. It compresses the seals just a little more.I noticed when you compress an o-ring it expands more toward the o.d. than the I.D. so they seal better in the shock body without increasing friction on the shaft excessively. A second step I use to get consistant rebuilds is I added a bleeder screw to the shock cap by drilling a 1/16" hole in the cap where the mount portion angles off toward the thread portion of the cap and using small flanged head self tapping screws. They seal perfectly in the "nook" where the hole is drilled. This makes bleeding the shock a fast and consistant process. Using these steps I have to re-build the shocks on My t4 about once every 2 months , and I run it about 3-4 times a week.
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:24 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalMitch View Post
You could always put Hot Bodies shocks on the B4, that is what Hayato put on his B4 to win the Worlds!
Interesting, a simple shock changed turned a buggy into a world beater!



NOT!
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Old 08-10-2008, 05:21 PM   #25
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You could always put Hot Bodies shocks on the B4, that is what Hayato put on his B4 to win the Worlds!


What shocks are those? The new D2s or from the D4? And where can I get such a shock?
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Old 08-16-2008, 06:31 AM   #26
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Have tried replacing the rear shocks with Cyclone D4 Rear shocks, the performance is awesome!

And no more serious oil leaking problem!

The part no. is 61586. I bought it from rcmodel.

Thank you all.
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:04 AM   #27
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If you have the dark threaded shock bodies you will blow out the retainer clip more often. I have had nothing but problems with my rears since I have had the kit. I was speaking to another racer who had the problem and we started working on the center spacer. We filed down the spacer so the retaining clip could get a better snap. The rears still blew out during the next heat so we filed them down some more and the next time the shock blew out was 3 heats later (actually on another race day). I rebuilt the shock again minimizing the center spacers thickness and this time it has held up for 2 heats and 1 main and so far so good.

On my T4 with the lighter colored threaded shocks it has never blown out and I am going on 2 months or 15 heats and 3 mains (no bashing).
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:42 AM   #28
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Hi all,

I recently sent my rear B4 FT shock bodies in to Team Associated for replacement, and they replaced them no questions asked. Before this, all the internal parts kept falling out.

In the mean-time, while waiting for my replacements to come back, I used Kyosho RB5 shocks on my B4. My car handled better, it was more predictable, I started winning races. I didn't have to rebuild shocks after each day at the track, which was really nice.

I have since re-built my new AE rear shocks and installed them. I'm out of town at the moment, and will give them a try when I get back.

We'll see if they work better than the factory AE units.
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:50 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by f00fy View Post
Hi all,

I recently sent my rear B4 FT shock bodies in to Team Associated for replacement, and they replaced them no questions asked. Before this, all the internal parts kept falling out.

In the mean-time, while waiting for my replacements to come back, I used Kyosho RB5 shocks on my B4. My car handled better, it was more predictable, I started winning races. I didn't have to rebuild shocks after each day at the track, which was really nice.

I have since re-built my new AE rear shocks and installed them. I'm out of town at the moment, and will give them a try when I get back.

We'll see if they work better than the factory AE units.
Thanks for that tip. I might pick up some RB5 shocks and give it a try.
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Old 02-16-2009, 03:04 PM   #30
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maybe you put to much oil in when you filled them. Push the shock shaft in, it should go all the way up into the bodie, then come half way out on its own. If it cant go all the way into the bodie you have to much fluid, if it doesnt come out on its own you have to little shock oil.
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