Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

I have a xxx-t mf2 and when I rebuilt them before practice 1 of them would like go in to the shock body without a spring when I pull it out. So likw when I pull it out 1 would come back in a little bit. Why is that happening?

And I want to rebuild my shocks before I race. What do I need to do that? links would be great. I already have 25wt shock oil. And is there anything else that I need to race my mf2?

JeromeK99

iTrader: (3)

You probably got some air in the shock creating a vacuum. Be sure to bleed the shock before tightening the cartridge. The manual isn't that clear on it...

1. Fill the shock with fluid up to the bottom of the threads.
2. Make sure the piston on the shaft is closest to the cartridge.
3. Hand tighten the cartridge until it stops.. don't torque on it.
4. Back off (loosen) the cartridge one full turn.
5. Slowly press the shaft down until it bottoms out. This bleeds excess fluid out of the body. Yes it's a bit messy..
6. With the shaft compressed tighten the cartridge. Be careful not to strip the plastic.

If you try to bleed the shock too fast, what happens is you loose too much fluid and then you get a vacuum in the body.. So take your time.

I also suggest getting a set of Losi Shock tools from RPM. http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/wrenches.htm

I have had mine forever.. at least 12 years!

I'm also not sure of the type of track you are running on or the springs you run.. 25wt sounds a little on the light side.. A good starting point for a MF2 in my experience is 30wt in the front with 35 in the rear.. Red springs all the way around... then tune from there.. I'm sure everybody will have suggestion on this.. If you are going to run the 25wt you'll need to run some heavy springs for a "progressive" setup or you'll be slapping the chassis on jumps.

I also like to use the MIP blue "o-rings" http://www.miponline.com/MIP/Tools/P...C_Tools.html#3 if I'm putting in new cartridges. They will last much longer than the red ones you get with the cartridges. You dont really want to be opening the cartridges once you snap them shut.. weakens the plastic and they could come apart.

Be sure to put a little bit of shock fluid on the o-rings and/or the shaft before putting them together. You dont wont to damage them.

No need for the "green slime".. all that really does is contaminate the fluid.. If you use the upgraded o-rings the slime isn't necessary at all.


Good luck!

Jerome

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Also after you fill the shocks with oil to the threads , let them sit for a few minutes so any air in the oil will be able to bubble out .

JeromeK99

iTrader: (3)

Pouring the fluid with one consistent squeeze helps too.. no air bubbles.. you can see the bubbles in the fluid as it goes in if you do it wrong...


Jerome

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

I am running at ocrc which is a small indoor track with only 1 big jump. Alot of people run 25wt in the rear with yellow springs and 30 in the front with buggy blue springs.

So what will I need to do a complete rebuild of my shocks?

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...l?sfs=c021ff26



http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA5015

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

So will I need 4 of those?

JeromeK,

Where do you race in socal?

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Yes , if you need to rebuild all four shocks .

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

I was looking at the Losi manual on the tips and hints from the team and they were talking about the rear camber link, rear hub, rear hub spacing, etc and I dont know what those are. Im mainly looking to adjust toe in but I dont know how. Can somebody tell me what that is and what those other adjustments are?

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

I personally just buy the o rings and rebuild the cartridges. I have never replaced the whole cartridge. In fact I believe the original cartidges are still in my truck, just with new O rings.

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

My cartlidge is kinda stripped from using pliers so I will get the RPM shock building tool and get the 4 rebuild kits.

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

RPM Shock tool is a must imo. I love that thing.

JeromeK99

iTrader: (3)

I mostly race outdoor off-road at Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair, CA. Haven't been to OCRC... from what I gather about the track I can see the heavy spring with 30wt in the front to loose some of the grab in the front. If you have too much bite in the front it will scrub all your speed every time you turn and make the rear loose... the light spring and fluid in the back sounds a little strange.. but hey... see what the guys that are winning are using.. not the guys that offer you unsolicited advice..

Tow for the tire/axles is the angle of the tire from front to back

Tow "in" //---\\ Tow "out" \\---// "Not recommended"

You want front Tow in the front to be straight or slightly tow out to help you enter turns quicker.

Rear hub spacing adjusts the effective chassis length... spacers to the front makes the length longer better for straight away acceleration and control.. spacers to the back makes the car shorter and helps turn better...

These cars are infinitely adjustable!!! Make single changes and run them.. see if it helps.. try not to worry about everything.. you will chase the setup forever! Best thing is to get the truck stable and drive it!

Good luck!

Jerome

The rear stock is slightly tow in to help stabilize forward acceleration.

Tater salad

iTrader: (9)

+1, i dint know what i would do without them

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

I told Chris about the shock tool way back when and he said he was getting one then... Gave him the link to where they were being closed-out for like $2.00 and everything.